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Congratulations Kevin!
Great looking son.
Better get that bike done pretty soon...your play time is going to change.
 
Great looking results on BOTH projects Kevin.

Congratulations all around! Thm:

Rick
 

kustomkb said:
And all the while I was able to produce this little beauty;

IMG_3260.jpg


His name is Jonah.

Congratulations! Where did you get the drawings, or did you did you use CAD? ;D

All the best, Mati


 
Kevin:

Change that frame to a trike, and five years from now Jonah can be riding to kindergarten in STYLE!

Congratulations, Dad!

Joe
 


Thank you very much for the congratulations/comments, we are very proud and happy.

Thanks for the links, those razor tires look pretty good.


Ken I've been meaning to ask, is that your skeleton bike? I've seen it before, very cool and well made!


Better get that bike done pretty soon...your play time is going to change.


I hear ya Zee. Also want to get it done so I can get a cool picture of him on it for our Christmas card.


Where did you get the drawings, or did you did you use CAD?


He started as a rough sketch but luckily my wife was able to to some pretty fine editing for us.


Hopefully over the years he will pick up your building talent.


Thanks George, I hope so too, my Dad is a master wood turner, pattern maker by trade, I went down the metal road and together we

can make some cool stuff. So I hope it can continue.


Change that frame to a trike, and five years from now Jonah can be riding to kindergarten in STYLE!


I hope he is keen on it! I all ready have a nice collection of go-kart /dirt bike and scooters for him. But whatever he chooses is cool.


Here is a trike I built a while back;


100_1949.JPG
Copy%20of%20100_1948.JPG



Thanks again for all the kind comments, it means a lot to me.


I just have to show off a couple more;


Jonah%20133.jpg
Jonah%20E.T..jpg


Have fun!





 
Kevin,

Congratulations on the son!

Now we know who the bike was built for.

You're also gonna have to teach him how to dance ;D
 
Congratulations on your new son.

I like your workmanship on the small model bike,
I'm going to start at the beginning of this thread and brows thru the entire thread, looks like a lot of interesting things to learn here.

Keep up the good work... :)
 

Thanks Kev, Hobby.

Kevin,

The way he's wiggling around I'm sure he'll be a natural ;)

I can't remember if I thanked you for fixing my thread, so thanks, that must have been a lot of work!

 
Hi Kevin
Check your email, sent you some pics of the skeleton bike
Hope you like them.
Best Regards Ken
 

Thanks Ken, very cool.

I wanted the bung to sit flush with the tank so I made a simple dimpling tool;

tank%20%281%29.jpg


Then made up the cap and 2 bungs, 1 for practice;

hoglet%20581.jpg


And here one sits in the practice piece;

tank%20%283%29.jpg


Then I welded and dressed it up, the stock is .036" thick.

hoglet%20579.jpg
hoglet%20580.jpg


I was happy to not find any voids while sanding down the bead.

But here is the ugly truth on the back side, you can see the heat was a little excessive but did not burn through.

hoglet%20582.jpg


The TIG machine has a pulse option which I'll play with which helps keep the heat from building up as I have heard.


Now maybe I can pull my thumb out, grow a pair and weld it up for real. ;D


Have fun!



 
Burn baby, burn! I think it's probably stuck okay, Kevin. Looking good on the finished side.

Years ago, when I went to get my welding cert, the examiner would give you a couple of things to weld up over your head, and vertically. I'd been a welder for some time already, so did 'em up good and hot on the root passes, then finished filling in the inch wide and deep "V' in the coupon piece.
When he cut them apart he said something about "atomic penetration".

Looks like that's what you got here, Kev. Atomic penetration.
Fits right in with the welder's mantra: More rod, more heat, more money.
: )

Dean
 

Oh yeah, its on there. "Atomic Penetration" for sure. I think we sent it back to the crucible on that one.

I'm going to try a smaller electrode and practice practice practice.

Any tips on how to set-up a Dynasty 200DX for .036 5052 AL?
Got no 50/50 just Argon and 2% Thoriated.

Thanks
 
Kevin, been some time since I did any tig. I don't know that machine, either, but here are a few things that should get you going;

Pure argon is good. Run it at about 15 cfh.
Your work piece is fairly thin, and I think you will do okay with it using AC, freq constant, (always on), and try about 40-60 amps at first. If you're doing a fillet, you may need a little more heat than that. Running AC on this should be best.

You need a pure tungsten electrode, (unless you are going to run it DCEP). I would think about .040" or maybe 1/16". You need to ball the end of it for AC. It should do it by itself when you start it, just leave the end of the electrode flat and start an arc on a piece of scrap al, (again using AC). Let me know if you don't know what I'm talking about.

I assume you know something about this, but: Clean your joint with a brand new stainless brush. Make sure the gas to the torch is purged before you start. Run the electrode and filler so they make about a 90 deg angle to each other. Something this thin, push it or pull it, it probably won't matter. What ever is easier for you.

Dean
 

Thanks for the tips Dean.

I think I have some 1/16 electrodes and somebody told me about an amp per thou' which jives with your suggestion. I'll try balling the end too.

I'll put all this to practice and see how we do...

Cheers.
 
The amp a thou thing might work as a very basic guide, Kevin. The thing is, different metals take widely different temps. Aluminum takes more than steels because it wicks heat so fast.

The ball you're looking for is a hemisphere shaped thing on the end of the electrode. Should be called half-a-ball, but that's not very handy.
A new electrode will have a nice flat end. Start with that to make your ball. Watch the 'trode in the arc when you first kick on the current, and keep it pointed straight down. It will start to shine and then get round. Only takes a few seconds. If you go above the current you needed to make the ball when welding up your piece, the ball will get a little bigger. If it gets more than about 50% larger than the base dia of the 'trode, it will fall off. You know you've reached the limit of amperage for that sized electrode.

Thoriated tung usually won't make a proper ball. The ball helps the arc on al. Quite a bit.

Dean
 
Use the 2% thoriated tungsten sharpened to a point with about a .030 dia. flat on the end, you will have much greater control of the arc. At 15cfh I wouldn't use a cup smaller than a 7 due to turbulance drawing contamination into the welding area, I might even suggest going down to 12-13 cfh. 40-50 amps max to start the puddle shoud do just fine on that thin of material. I wont even keep pure tungsten around any more, no need.
Hope this helps a little, I haven't had the chance to use a dynasty, still using an old syncrowave.
 

Thanks again for the tips guys,

I read that you don't really need the ball on the newer inverter machines and that Lanthanated would be just as good as thoriated if you don't want a little radioactive dust in your shop.

I never thought of the turbulence drawing contamination in, I guess more isn't always better.

Also found a discussion here; http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/archive/index.php/t-32993.html

The machine I am using has alot of features, so once I get a good starting point nailed down I hope to get some serious practice in.

I really want to get good at this but like everything, practice, practice...

Thanks.





 

A little progress;

frame%20002.jpg
frame%20005.jpg


frame%20004.jpg


frame%20010.jpg


I couldn't get the welds as nice as I wanted so I ended up just globbing it on so I would have material to grind back.

Have fun.

 
just after I started reading this thread my jaw popped open,now i may be disfigured for life lol
fantastic
 

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