Henry Ford Engine

[jwcnc1911]

Thank you! And that's not to far from home... it's always cool to hear of some one like that close to home.

 

[vascon2196]

Your welcome and good luck!

 

[vascon2196]

Here is a video of my second Henry Ford engine. This one looks a lot nicer than my first one. A few more adjustments with the timing and I'll be happy.

 

[Lawijt]

Is it possible to find those plans in metric?

 

[vascon2196]

Not sure if metric plans are available...

 

[hilij]

lawijt all you need is a calculator and multiply all the imperial dimensions by 25.4 ))

 

[atwatterkent]

Or get a digital caliper, set it to a dimension on the drawing and push the "inch/metric" button for the conversion. I use this method frequently as I'm not fluent in metric but have a horizontal mill with metric dials.

 

[Lawijt]

Yes , I know. but the treads are also not the same & nuts , bolts are very hard to find here.
Also taps and dies are very expensive.

 

[Tin Falcon]

No reason you can not substitute metric hardware.

for a
#5 3mm
#6 3.5
#8 4 mm
#10 5mm
1/4 bolt use 6mm
5/16 8mm
3/8 10mm
1/2 12mm

the difference in some cases is you can thread a us bolt in a metric hole sometimes loose some time tight . The point being is it is sometimes hard to tell the difference.


Yes I realize not exact conversions . I have found in model making you often have to adjust plans to what is available.
make sure you have a tap and matching hardware in hand before drilling.
My first model I obediently drilled and tapped for 10-24 only to find I had to go to 4 hardware stores to find that size. In retrospect 10-32 would have been better. by all means use what is locally available and you have the tooling for.
Tin

 

[hilij]

Yes that's right a digital caliper will do the trick I use them constantly) I have a mill with metric dials and two lathes with imperial dials you have to always bare in mind that one millimeter is forty thou or .01 of a millimeter is .004 inches!

 

[Ca-g]

Yes that's right a digital caliper will do the trick I use them constantly) I have a mill with metric dials and two lathes with imperial dials you have to always bare in mind that one millimeter is forty thou or .01 of a millimeter is .004 inches!

Mmm... suspect you might mean .1mm.

 

[hilij]

Yes you are right .1mm I made a typing mistake sorry for any inconvenience)

 

[hilij]

atwatterkent do you have more photos of the ford engine especially the conrod big end as I have started rebuilding my engine as I said I am doing it as faithful as possible no allan bolts and no fancy wood base!!!!

 

[Philjoe5]

Nice work Chris and a great video. When I last saw you at the Charles River Museum in early 2011 you were having fits with engine #1. :wall:

Looks like you got through all the tough spots (2x!)

Cheers,
Phil

 

[vascon2196]

Thank you Phil....yes I remember.

I do have a bit of a temper and have little patience when things do not work as intended. Not a good trait to have with this hobby I guess but I am working on it. The trouble I had with this engine taught me a ton of things I would have never learned if it ran properly...my second engine build taught me even more.

I just ran the engine again an hour ago...still very satisfying.

 

[Philjoe5]

The trouble I had with this engine taught me a ton of things

When you read about famous inventors, scientists, engineers (I just read iWoz) they all went through these periods of failure, frustration etc. But like you, they didn't quit. You've learned something valuable to pass on to your studentsThm:

Cheers,
Phil

 

[vascon2196]

I never expected to back back in this thread but here goes.

My Ford plumbing engine runs o.k. but has always had carb issues which prevents it from running long periods of time. I finally decided to switch over to a vapor carb and so far great success. I watched a couple YouTube videos and a few articles from HMEM and came up with a very simple solution.

I used a 3/8 to 1/8 connection, a 1/4 fuel line hose, a larger hose, a slotted pin, and 2 rubber grommets.

I can adjust the rubber grommets by hand to slide along the slotted pin. I can also adjust the tubes on each end for greater adjustment. Just a basic way to control air into the combustion chamber. I also have air adjustment in the gas tank (drip oiler). I place the cap of an old oil can that acts as an air restrict-or to help agitate the gas.

The engine ran over 5 minutes without stopping...longest run ever.

 

[el gringo]

looks like a god idea Chris but I like to watch the drip drip drip drip drip of the original design so I can change the drip drip drip drip rate to accomadate the changes of the engine temperature etc. I wonder If H Ford fiddled with it as well.

P1030900.jpg

 

[vascon2196]

I love the beer can and the color!!!

 

[el gringo]

The flywheel color is Ford Blue engine enamel. The beer can is filled with steel wool and has several 1/8" holes in the bottom. Hell of a muffler...
Ray