Harold Hall's precision grinding table
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For those of you who don't know! In MEW # 176
Harold Hall made a change on the grinding rest.
He changed the size of the two arms that connect the lower with the upper part from 8 mm to 3 mm thickness.
If you have the thicker ones done thinning them to 3 mm.
It makes for better fasten the end more securely.
Hilmar
Harold Hall made a change on the grinding rest.
He changed the size of the two arms that connect the lower with the upper part from 8 mm to 3 mm thickness.
If you have the thicker ones done thinning them to 3 mm.
It makes for better fasten the end more securely.
Hilmar
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xo18thfa said:
Nice.Thats exactly what I want to do. Was there much fuss in the way of integrating the cup type wheel itself? Is it a matter of matching the shaft OD to ?standardized? cup ID. Did you have to make up some special retention nut or the stock one from disk type wheel works?
petertha said:
Sorry so late getting back. Most of these grinding cups have a 1-1/4" ID bore. The Grinder is 1/2" shaft. I turned an adapter and washer to fit the cup to the shaft. Mount the cup to the shaft and use a diamond point dressing point to balance the cup. Once the cup is balanced, it does not come off (unless you want to rebalance it)
The only attachments I have are the lathe bit grinding rest and the drill bit attachment (last photo above) The drill bit attachment is a must have. It will grind up to a 5/8" drill dead perfect. The attachments are exactly to Hall's design, just converted to use inch material.
Maryak
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Hi Guys,
In Oz most grinding wheels, irrespective of profile, are supplied with a series of plastic inserts which allow for fitting the majority of grinder arbors.
If they just offer up a wheel ask them where are the inserts. ;D
The most important, or dare I say vital, thing is to ensure the clamping washers front and back bridge the wheel hole and that there is a paper insert between them and the wheel if they are not already glued to the inner and outer wheel faces. This reduces the tendency for the wheel to shatter.
Best Regards
Bob
In Oz most grinding wheels, irrespective of profile, are supplied with a series of plastic inserts which allow for fitting the majority of grinder arbors.
If they just offer up a wheel ask them where are the inserts. ;D
The most important, or dare I say vital, thing is to ensure the clamping washers front and back bridge the wheel hole and that there is a paper insert between them and the wheel if they are not already glued to the inner and outer wheel faces. This reduces the tendency for the wheel to shatter.
Best Regards
Bob
bezalel2000
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Nice job XO :bow:
Inspiring, I'm Gunner have to finish my grinding table one day - I just don't know which day :big:
So many gunnadoos so few days to do em.
Do you have a link to your happy snaps?
Inspiring, I'm Gunner have to finish my grinding table one day - I just don't know which day :big:
So many gunnadoos so few days to do em.
scratch.gif ummmm! what happened tel? stickpoketel said:
Do you have a link to your happy snaps?
workshopman
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It is encouraging to see that my Grinding Rests are being found useful by some, and others are now considering making one. Thanks!
I note also that Hilmar refers to one of my MEW articles relating to the advanced rest.
Viewers of this forum may not be fully aware that almost all of my MEW articles are now to be found on my website,
www.homews.co.uk
Of particular interest to this thread are the following pages
Using either rests. More detailed than my magazine article or found in my books.
www.homews.co.uk/page224.html
Advanced grinding rest.
www.homews.co.uk/page145.html
Three simple modifications to the advanced rest.
www.homews.co.uk/page156.html
A method of mounting either rest that gives total flexibility as to where it is placed relative to the off hand grinder making them easier to use.
www.homews.co.uk/page59.html
Converting a standard Off Hand Grinder to take Cup and Saucer wheels.
www.homews.co.uk/page225.html
Shaping and sharpening boring tools.
www.homews.co.uk/page237.html
Sharpening drills, including the four facet method
www.homews.co.uk/page354.html
Simple grinding rest.
www.homews.co.uk/page146.html
I intend in the coming months to include a book style alphbetical index which will index both complete articles, plus interesting details within them, with the entries linked to the pages on which they feature. This will make it easier to locate such pages as those above. Will keep you posted.
Side Grinding
I notice that the subject of using the side of the wheel has also been raised. The statement that the side of the wheel should not be used is often very much over stated as it is perfectly acceptable providing that the wheel has not been overly thinned by dressing its side, or the task being undertaken is not placing a considerable force on the side of the wheel.
A handbook published by Norton Abrasives states
Grinding on the flat sides of straight wheels is often hazardous and should not be allowed on such operations when the sides of the wheel are appreciably worn, or when any considerable or sudden pressure is brought to bear against the sides.
A much later handbook published by the Universal Grinding Wheel Company has much the same view of the subject.
In the case of using a tool and cutter grinder though, practically all tasks should be done on the corner of the wheel. This avoids total contact with the wheel which may cause overheating of the item being sharpened.
Harold Hall
I note also that Hilmar refers to one of my MEW articles relating to the advanced rest.
Viewers of this forum may not be fully aware that almost all of my MEW articles are now to be found on my website,
www.homews.co.uk
Of particular interest to this thread are the following pages
Using either rests. More detailed than my magazine article or found in my books.
www.homews.co.uk/page224.html
Advanced grinding rest.
www.homews.co.uk/page145.html
Three simple modifications to the advanced rest.
www.homews.co.uk/page156.html
A method of mounting either rest that gives total flexibility as to where it is placed relative to the off hand grinder making them easier to use.
www.homews.co.uk/page59.html
Converting a standard Off Hand Grinder to take Cup and Saucer wheels.
www.homews.co.uk/page225.html
Shaping and sharpening boring tools.
www.homews.co.uk/page237.html
Sharpening drills, including the four facet method
www.homews.co.uk/page354.html
Simple grinding rest.
www.homews.co.uk/page146.html
I intend in the coming months to include a book style alphbetical index which will index both complete articles, plus interesting details within them, with the entries linked to the pages on which they feature. This will make it easier to locate such pages as those above. Will keep you posted.
Side Grinding
I notice that the subject of using the side of the wheel has also been raised. The statement that the side of the wheel should not be used is often very much over stated as it is perfectly acceptable providing that the wheel has not been overly thinned by dressing its side, or the task being undertaken is not placing a considerable force on the side of the wheel.
A handbook published by Norton Abrasives states
Grinding on the flat sides of straight wheels is often hazardous and should not be allowed on such operations when the sides of the wheel are appreciably worn, or when any considerable or sudden pressure is brought to bear against the sides.
A much later handbook published by the Universal Grinding Wheel Company has much the same view of the subject.
In the case of using a tool and cutter grinder though, practically all tasks should be done on the corner of the wheel. This avoids total contact with the wheel which may cause overheating of the item being sharpened.
Harold Hall
Maryak
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Harold,
Welcome to our forum. wEc1
May I add my thanks for your contributions to our hobby. Your articles and books are some of the more, "well thumbed" items in my library. I have built several of your offerings; most notably the grinding rest and its' accessories. :bow:
Best Regards
Bob
Welcome to our forum. wEc1
May I add my thanks for your contributions to our hobby. Your articles and books are some of the more, "well thumbed" items in my library. I have built several of your offerings; most notably the grinding rest and its' accessories. :bow:
Best Regards
Bob
bazzz
Active Member
Welcome Harold,
I ordered three of your books last week. Looking forward to building my own grinding table using your plans.
Dave
I ordered three of your books last week. Looking forward to building my own grinding table using your plans.
Dave
Harold: I use the grinding table for sharpening drill bits and HSS lathe bits. It does a super job. Everything comes out razor sharp. 5/8" diameter drill is the biggest going by your plan. The table is a huge improvement to my shop.
I also did your basic dividing head. It's opened up a whole new set of possibilities. Did some spur gears with it and they came out right on. Other jobs too. Next will be some bevel gears for Gauge 1 live steam locos
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=14501.0
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=17322.0
I sincerely thank you for adding so much to our hobby
vr Bob Sorenson
I also did your basic dividing head. It's opened up a whole new set of possibilities. Did some spur gears with it and they came out right on. Other jobs too. Next will be some bevel gears for Gauge 1 live steam locos
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=14501.0
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=17322.0
I sincerely thank you for adding so much to our hobby
vr Bob Sorenson
Hello Mr. Hall,
I am also a big fan of your work and miss the days when you were the editor of MEW. By the way, you did an amazing job while you were the editor there. I can't imagine how difficult it must have been to have to design, build and document all of those projects that you did to fill the magazine under a deadline. I also thought that your 'second workshop' under the alias of 'John Steele' was clever, but I knew it was you from early on.
Thanks for all that you have done and continue to do for the model engineering hobby. Your efforts are wholeheartedly appreciated by many and as you can see a very many here on this excellent forum. Welcome aboard.
Kind regards,
Mike
I am also a big fan of your work and miss the days when you were the editor of MEW. By the way, you did an amazing job while you were the editor there. I can't imagine how difficult it must have been to have to design, build and document all of those projects that you did to fill the magazine under a deadline. I also thought that your 'second workshop' under the alias of 'John Steele' was clever, but I knew it was you from early on.
Thanks for all that you have done and continue to do for the model engineering hobby. Your efforts are wholeheartedly appreciated by many and as you can see a very many here on this excellent forum. Welcome aboard.
Kind regards,
Mike
workshopman
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Thank you very much for the extent of your welcome, quite unexpected.
I cannot promise to be very involved with the forum but will visit at least once a week to see if I can learn something, its never too late, and to contribute if I feel I have anything worthwhile to say.
Harold
I cannot promise to be very involved with the forum but will visit at least once a week to see if I can learn something, its never too late, and to contribute if I feel I have anything worthwhile to say.
Harold
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Welcome!
Thank you very much for your contributions to the machining community! :bow:
Bob
Thank you very much for your contributions to the machining community! :bow:
Bob
Lockstocknbarrel
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Mr Hall,
Thank you for your time and effort, in sharing a life time spent in the home workshop. It is people like you that keep home engineering alive in a world that is now so electronic.
You and GHT both deserve a gong from Liz just for the time and dedication alone.
I have just purchased the Book #38 and will also buy #35. The tool grinder is a must in the workshop.
Please do keep up the additions to your website I have just spent several hours looking and more tooling for my shop.
Kindest Regards
Beagles
Thank you for your time and effort, in sharing a life time spent in the home workshop. It is people like you that keep home engineering alive in a world that is now so electronic.
You and GHT both deserve a gong from Liz just for the time and dedication alone.
I have just purchased the Book #38 and will also buy #35. The tool grinder is a must in the workshop.
Please do keep up the additions to your website I have just spent several hours looking and more tooling for my shop.
Kindest Regards
Beagles
M130
Member
Hi all of you!
I have just made one of mr Hall's grinding rests. Althought it needs a bit of shining, I'm posting a couple of pictures. Yesterday I used it to sharpen a couple of endmills and a slotdrill for the first time. After taken a test cut with them, I'm p pleased with the result.
Kind regards
Morten
I have just made one of mr Hall's grinding rests. Althought it needs a bit of shining, I'm posting a couple of pictures. Yesterday I used it to sharpen a couple of endmills and a slotdrill for the first time. After taken a test cut with them, I'm p pleased with the result.
Kind regards
Morten
