Grinding Wheels

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I saw a grinding wheel on a surface grinder fail from misuse once.

The young man who was operating the grinder froze up.
One of the old guys in the shop ran around that surface grinder and hit the E-Stop.
To get to that E-Stop he ran through the tangent plane of the disintegrating grinding wheel.

I took the coward's route.
I closed my eyes and turned away because I didn't want to see him die.

He made it past the plane of the flying fragments and stopped the grinder.

I don't want to ever see that again!

Two peoples lives were in mortal danger because one man tried once too often to test the
the safety rules of a simple grinder.

That simple grinder can be the most dangerous machine in you shop.

OK, I'll kick my soap box back under the sofa now.....


Rick
 
rake60 said:
OK, I'll kick my soap box back under the sofa now.....

Careful, you could break a toe... ;-)

On a related note..... keep an eye on buffing wheels. They will snag and throw things back at you faster than you can blink. For a while I was making knives and once ended up with a blade sticking out of my belly because the wheel snagged. Luckily it was not deep (And I have some extra belly.. ;-) ... but it could have been.

I suggest full medieval armor :big: ... or maybe a welding apron anyway.

 
d-m said:
Thanks guy's did not mean to steel the topic
Thanks Kermit yes thats what I was referring to the soft oil stone
And every one else thanks I will give these suggestions a try.

And back to the topic I was wondering if it is worth the expense to replace the green wheels that come on the H F grinder with a aluminum oxide wheel?
Dave
And for an afterthought I have been thinking of buying a cup wheel and running a light cut on my mill table. it' a well used tool master and the table shows it I know I could never get out the divets but can I take off the hight spots and clean it up a bit?
any thoughts?
Dave


I replaced one green wheel with an Alox metal backed cup wheel and was glad I did...I use mostly HSS and grinding that with the green wheel is not advised...aditionally...the green wheels on these machines are *@#*&$. Mine had .100" of run-out which I had to dress back to make the machine useable.

Dave

PS.....What Rick Said!......Don't mess with wheels...
 
Thanks Steamer would you have a link to that cup wheel you use ?
Dave
 
And for an afterthought I have been thinking of buying a cup wheel and running a light cut on my mill table. it' a well used tool master and the table shows it I know I could never get out the divets but can I take off the hight spots and clean it up a bit?
any thoughts?

i´m interested in that too

i believe if the spindle is perfectly aligned to the travels of the mill table, you can "rectifier" the surface of the mill table and get if perfeclty true

but im not no shure how to get this in practise...


Saludos
 
IIRC....I got mine through MSC

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDF...838290&PMITEM=89951644&PMCTLG=00&PMT4TP=*LTIP

It's made for a "Baldor" grinder which means it uses the metal plate backed Aluminum Oxide wheels......I believe I got the 60 or 80 grit as I don't use this wheel for hogging stock off. Just cleaning up lathe tools and such.

They're pricey.....but it's a nice wheel.

I find I can "Polish" HSS with a green wheel, but it won't cut like the AlOx wheel will.

Dave
 
The green grinding wheel is used on carbide it is silicon carbide it will polish steel and tool steel more than grind it.
White oxide wheels are commenly used on high speed steel, I use ceramic wheels which are blue in colour they dont heat the steel up as much and give a sharper & cleaner edge. I own a tool sharpening company and have found over the years that borazon wheels are best for high speed steel.

Darren
 
Hi Darren,

Thanks for the post. Way back in the day...Borazon was pretty new ( early 90's)....so I'm lacking in that experience.

Please do tell us the merits?

Additionally, could you point us in the direction of a suitable wheel and perhaps a spec and a cost?

Thanks!

Dave

 
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