incawannabe
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when converting from millimeters to inches i always multiply the metric# by .03937 and have never been disappointed as an example 22.013mmx.03937=.86665". works every time
Free plans for a larger, simpler, beam engine
- Thread starter Brian Rupnow
- Start date
Help Support Home Model Engine Machinist Forum:
I just type 25.4 into my scientific calculator, hit the reciprocal (1/x) button and store the result which is the constant that shown above carried out to more decimal places. After that, I type in the mm dimension x MR (memory recall) = and get the result which I round to the precision needed. Takes longer to tell than do but cuts down a lot of button pressing. You can just divide 1 by 25.4 and store the result in a dollar store calculator that has memory and accomplish the same thing. Of course, I have several scientific calculators that I bought at the dollar store, amazing!
Hi Brian, I am getting back to modelling again after our earthquakes and would love to build your Bem engine. Can you advise where I can source metric plans for it please. I have tried other sources but no luck as yet.
Thanks Brian.
Cheers
Ron
Thanks Brian.
Cheers
Ron
Sorry guy---I don't have metric plans.
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YES PLEASE Signal Failure i would love a set of plans,whats the best way to obtain the plans. BAZMAK
Hey Brian,
Could you convert this assembly to STEP or STP format.
My CAD program failed to open your files.
Thanks
Chris
Go back and take a look at post #61---A link to all the drawings as pdf files is there. There is also a link to the solid models and drawings in Solidworks in post #127 above. I do not have the plans in metric. I am not going to save them in some other format. If you seriously want them in some other 3D format, then download the pdf files and create your own solid models from them. That way you will be able to generate drawings in either British Imperial or metric.----Brian
Laveolus
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Hi, Brian -
Just joined the forum, having just yesterday completed building your beam engine - which I hasten to add actually works! Very satisfying to make something just from the drawings (even though they're in Imperial). Just a couple of observations:
a) The cylinder does need a cover to mask off the holes that feed the air / steam through to the cylinder from the valve chamber. It also needs some depth to accommodate a feed pipe.
b) Slight change - I added a brass insert to the centre bearing on the beam to improve wear properties. OK, it isn't gong to run continuously for years on end, but still, it's not that difficult to do.
c) Some notes on timing would be appreciated, although I did manage to get it running using soemwhat empirical methods. Yes, I guessed at it, then twiddled for maximum oomph.
d) I did change all the screws to metric. 2-56 becomes M3; #10 converts nicely to 5mm, and 1/4" becomes M6.
I may get to work with AutoCAD and produce some metric drawings for the folk who work outside of the US.
Thank you very much for your drawings. It was fun making the engine! A rather fuzzy photo is attached.
Eric
Just joined the forum, having just yesterday completed building your beam engine - which I hasten to add actually works! Very satisfying to make something just from the drawings (even though they're in Imperial). Just a couple of observations:
a) The cylinder does need a cover to mask off the holes that feed the air / steam through to the cylinder from the valve chamber. It also needs some depth to accommodate a feed pipe.
b) Slight change - I added a brass insert to the centre bearing on the beam to improve wear properties. OK, it isn't gong to run continuously for years on end, but still, it's not that difficult to do.
c) Some notes on timing would be appreciated, although I did manage to get it running using soemwhat empirical methods. Yes, I guessed at it, then twiddled for maximum oomph.
d) I did change all the screws to metric. 2-56 becomes M3; #10 converts nicely to 5mm, and 1/4" becomes M6.
I may get to work with AutoCAD and produce some metric drawings for the folk who work outside of the US.
Thank you very much for your drawings. It was fun making the engine! A rather fuzzy photo is attached.
Eric
Laveolus---Glad to see that it worked for you.---Brian
Hi Laveolus, thank you for your interesting resume of your build of Brian's beam engine. I couldn't find your photo and would appreciate a copy if you may. I am working on other projects bur I do plan to build this one - it looks just fine. Thank you, Ron
Laveolus
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Hi, Ron -
It was certainly fun making that engine, especially as I worked entirely from the set of drawings, and no notes so that I was able to figure out how to set things up and machine the parts. That's the fun part - figuring things out. Although I live in California, I am actually British, so I tend to work in metric. One of the most annoying characteristics of the Imperial system (at least as practiced by Americans) is to have several measurement systems on the go simultaneously - like fractional (ugh) and decimal inches, and not even to mention the stupid system they use for drills (numbers, letters and fractional). As it turned out, the quick method was to work in the original Imperial, but convert all the screws to metric.
I don't kno what happened to the photo. It's probably related to the 'manage attachments' thingy, so I fear it's gone wandering off into the vast hinterland of the internet, all alone and uncared for. I shall try again. Apologies for the fuzzy photo, but it does give an idea of how the engine finishes up. I ended up making the flywheel out of brass - at great expense. The online metal supplier that I use is very good, but the minimum length of 5" dia brass was 1", so I had to get creative and saw it in half. That was an interesting excercise in itself! Now I need another engine with a 5" flywheel...
It was certainly fun making that engine, especially as I worked entirely from the set of drawings, and no notes so that I was able to figure out how to set things up and machine the parts. That's the fun part - figuring things out. Although I live in California, I am actually British, so I tend to work in metric. One of the most annoying characteristics of the Imperial system (at least as practiced by Americans) is to have several measurement systems on the go simultaneously - like fractional (ugh) and decimal inches, and not even to mention the stupid system they use for drills (numbers, letters and fractional). As it turned out, the quick method was to work in the original Imperial, but convert all the screws to metric.
I don't kno what happened to the photo. It's probably related to the 'manage attachments' thingy, so I fear it's gone wandering off into the vast hinterland of the internet, all alone and uncared for. I shall try again. Apologies for the fuzzy photo, but it does give an idea of how the engine finishes up. I ended up making the flywheel out of brass - at great expense. The online metal supplier that I use is very good, but the minimum length of 5" dia brass was 1", so I had to get creative and saw it in half. That was an interesting excercise in itself! Now I need another engine with a 5" flywheel...
Hi Brian,
I'm not sure I'm following the right procedure to ask you a question in this thread but here goes. I've managed to make the flywheel and the beam assemblies and am now ready to start on the cylinder. I think I've got my head around how the valve works but I'm a bit confused about the two 2mm holes connecting the valve cylinder to the main cylinder. Are these blocked off between the valve cylinder and the outside? If they aren't, wouldn't the air just vent to atmosphere rather than acting on the main piston? I'm assuming the air is introduced via the .188" hole into the valve cylinder and that the .125" hole into the side of the valve cylinder is the exhaust for the upward stroke and that the open top of the cylinder acts as the exhaust for the downward stroke. Sorry if I appear a bit ignorant but this is the first engine I've made apart from a wobbler type.
I'm not sure I'm following the right procedure to ask you a question in this thread but here goes. I've managed to make the flywheel and the beam assemblies and am now ready to start on the cylinder. I think I've got my head around how the valve works but I'm a bit confused about the two 2mm holes connecting the valve cylinder to the main cylinder. Are these blocked off between the valve cylinder and the outside? If they aren't, wouldn't the air just vent to atmosphere rather than acting on the main piston? I'm assuming the air is introduced via the .188" hole into the valve cylinder and that the .125" hole into the side of the valve cylinder is the exhaust for the upward stroke and that the open top of the cylinder acts as the exhaust for the downward stroke. Sorry if I appear a bit ignorant but this is the first engine I've made apart from a wobbler type.
Kiwi2---I had to get the engine down off the shelf and have a look. Its been a few years since I built this engine.Your assumptions are all correct. You can see the plugs I silver soldered into the outside of the cyl. body in this picture.---Brian
Laveolus
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When built my version, I made a cover for these ports, which also gave me enough thickness to drill & tap an inlet hole to supply the incoming air. You can just see the supply pipe on the photo above. Not that I don't trust my silver soldering, of course! It's a nice engine, and a good size, too.
Eric
Eric
jwcnc1911
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Brian,
I like your design and your drawings! I am accustomed to reading very complicated prints and I prefer to do one part per page. I often have to split prints up to make it easier to read. Simplicity is prime for people who are new, inexperienced or just a little slower.
I like your design and your drawings! I am accustomed to reading very complicated prints and I prefer to do one part per page. I often have to split prints up to make it easier to read. Simplicity is prime for people who are new, inexperienced or just a little slower.
Thanks Brian and Eric - the information is much appreciated.
I used to silver solder everything myself but have been having a play with flux cored tin/lead solder for parts that don't require the strength of silver solder. It's a lot easier to use and by applying the liquid flux with a toothpick I can accurately control where the solder goes. I reckon that for most purposes (such as plugging the valve cylinder) it works just as well. It's a lot cheaper too.
Regards,
Alan
I used to silver solder everything myself but have been having a play with flux cored tin/lead solder for parts that don't require the strength of silver solder. It's a lot easier to use and by applying the liquid flux with a toothpick I can accurately control where the solder goes. I reckon that for most purposes (such as plugging the valve cylinder) it works just as well. It's a lot cheaper too.
Regards,
Alan
Hi,
Here are a couple of pictures of my version of the beam engine. I couldn't source any 5/8" aluminium plate for the base but I did have some 1/16" brass plate so I made a mahogany base and attached the various engine components to the brass sheet which was inlaid into the wood. Apart from anything else I like the look of brass and mahogany together. I then had to raise the level of all the components and add the bearing block behind the piston assembley to hold the axle for the valve rockers. I didn't install the piston rod support as I didn't think I could get the hole lined up accurately enough not to hinder the operation of the piston. The hole would need to be a close sliding fit for it to make any difference and the thought of positioning it exactly in line with the piston rod hole in the cylinder head put me off it. If I had to have the piston rod support I would solder it to the top of the cylinder head and run a reamer through the two holes to ensure they were in line. As it turns out, the support doesn't seem to be needed for the engine to run.
I had a lot of trouble with the flywheel. It is made of steel and during the final dressing it started to sing in the lathe. This vibration gave the rubbish finish you can see on the flywheel. I tried all sorts of things to get a decent finish (fine cuts, deep cuts, high speeds, low speeds) but nothing seemed to make a difference. Oddly, it's only the front side that it happened on. The other side is fine. I have recently sourced a heap of 130mm x 5mm brass bar ($10/kg from a scrap dealer). I'm in the process of making a flywheel from this by soldering two pieces together which is going quite well.
The engine runs well at about 5psi and developes a respectable torque at 15psi so I am quite pleased with its operation. I've set the piston to be at its mid point when the valve is at its extreme i.e. they are 90 degrees apart. Is this correct? This is the most complicated engine I have made so far and I'm looking forward to starting a new project.
Here are a couple of pictures of my version of the beam engine. I couldn't source any 5/8" aluminium plate for the base but I did have some 1/16" brass plate so I made a mahogany base and attached the various engine components to the brass sheet which was inlaid into the wood. Apart from anything else I like the look of brass and mahogany together. I then had to raise the level of all the components and add the bearing block behind the piston assembley to hold the axle for the valve rockers. I didn't install the piston rod support as I didn't think I could get the hole lined up accurately enough not to hinder the operation of the piston. The hole would need to be a close sliding fit for it to make any difference and the thought of positioning it exactly in line with the piston rod hole in the cylinder head put me off it. If I had to have the piston rod support I would solder it to the top of the cylinder head and run a reamer through the two holes to ensure they were in line. As it turns out, the support doesn't seem to be needed for the engine to run.
I had a lot of trouble with the flywheel. It is made of steel and during the final dressing it started to sing in the lathe. This vibration gave the rubbish finish you can see on the flywheel. I tried all sorts of things to get a decent finish (fine cuts, deep cuts, high speeds, low speeds) but nothing seemed to make a difference. Oddly, it's only the front side that it happened on. The other side is fine. I have recently sourced a heap of 130mm x 5mm brass bar ($10/kg from a scrap dealer). I'm in the process of making a flywheel from this by soldering two pieces together which is going quite well.
The engine runs well at about 5psi and developes a respectable torque at 15psi so I am quite pleased with its operation. I've set the piston to be at its mid point when the valve is at its extreme i.e. they are 90 degrees apart. Is this correct? This is the most complicated engine I have made so far and I'm looking forward to starting a new project.
elefant_man
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I don't know if any one is still interested but please find MM conversion of the plans at the link below they are zipped and PDF format.
I normally lurk about and don't post but saw that a while ago people were asking for metric plans for this. So in the interest of giving back I took 15 mins of my time to convert them for people.
I even had to register to post the link
I have only converted the dimensions so all the threads etc are as they were and I have not changed the spec of any of the parts so the dimensions might seem a little precise like 48.26mm instead of 1.9" etc.
If there are any problems with the conversion let me know and I will address any issues.
This looks a great little engine and I may have a go myself if I ever get the time. The OP did a great job with the model and drawings.
http://www.01space.co.uk/STEAMENGINE/BEAM TYPE STEAM ENGINE MM CONVERTED.zip
I normally lurk about and don't post but saw that a while ago people were asking for metric plans for this. So in the interest of giving back I took 15 mins of my time to convert them for people.
I even had to register to post the link
I have only converted the dimensions so all the threads etc are as they were and I have not changed the spec of any of the parts so the dimensions might seem a little precise like 48.26mm instead of 1.9" etc.
If there are any problems with the conversion let me know and I will address any issues.
This looks a great little engine and I may have a go myself if I ever get the time. The OP did a great job with the model and drawings.
http://www.01space.co.uk/STEAMENGINE/BEAM TYPE STEAM ENGINE MM CONVERTED.zip
