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Too cold in the shop for me to stay long but I did get a couple of things done.
I installed the power box and hooked up the electrical connections.
They even worked!
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Started on the fuel tank.
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Thanks for looking
Ray
 
These are the parts to the gas tank.
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I cut the round ends oversize from a piece of plexiglass then use this turning method.
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The plexiglass is pressed between two steel slugs one in the chuck and one in the live center. I leave the protective film on the part until after it is cut to size using a fine feed. The pieces are assembled using 5 min clear epoxy.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
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Awful close to hearing that first run Ray!
I hear you John.

I just had to see if it would run.


One of the problems I found from that run was that the left cylinder was not doing much. The intake valve was doing a fine dance but there wasn't much fuel going into the cylinder. On examination I found that the exhaust valve was barely opening. I didn't do a real good check when I reassembled the front wood base so the valve timing was not good. After 1/2 hour of trying to get all the adjustments for both sides to come out I stopped. The right side was very good but the left just had too much valve clearance so I epoxied this 0.020 shim to the left end of the rocker arm and it worked just fine.
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There are a number of other things I want to correct before I start on the cooling system.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
Thanks John

The weather has been warming up so I can spend more time in the shop.
I made up some curved exhaust pipes so the exhaust wouldn't blow right down on the wood base.
Did some tuning and corrected some minor issues and made another video.



I was trying to decide if I wanted to finish the cooling system for the engine but after several runs the engine was getting quite hot so I will continue with that.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
19th Dec was your 1st post discussing the project... Wow 6 weeks later a running engine, I gotta get myself more organized and to stop procrastinating when I can see what can be achieved in only a few weeks.... my timeline is measured in years !
 
Hi Ray
It sounds great !!👍

In both your videos I was trying to see the driven gear edge on, but you swung by pretty quick. But from what I saw it looks like it is running true. Awesome.
And again, you work fast!
Every thing looks great, nice work and thanks for sharing, I am enjoying following along.

Scott
 
I’ll bet it was getting hot. My kitchen sink engine is only good for a couple minutes before it’s too hot to get at all close to!
That engine surely does get hot fast. In about 30 seconds of run time.


Wow 6 weeks later a running engine
Thanks Rob for the kind words and it isn't how fast you work but if you're having fun doing it.

Every thing looks great, nice work and thanks for sharing, I am enjoying follow
Thank you Scott good to have you along and I will get a better shot of the timing gears in the final video.

I made up some of the pieces for the return cooling water.
The return pipes from the two cylinders will meet into one that goes to the bottom of the cooling tank.
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I had to remove the carb and mount to get access.
They are way down there screwed to the wood base.
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Also got a good start on the cooling tank.
A piece of aluminum tubing I had in the cutoff bin.
I turned a 1/2" thick piece of aluminum to fit the inside of the tube and pressed it in one end.
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It won't be that tall when finished but I got started turning it and I couldn't stop it was looking so nice.

Thanks for looking
Ray
 
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The cooling water system is complete so first a few pictures.
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The water tank that I had thought would be way to long ended up with just 1/2" being cut off the end. I knew I would have problems getting the air out of the system so I drilled a small hole in the top of each cylinder to purge the air. They are threaded with a M3 set screw in place to seal them up.
Each tank of fuel lasts about 12 minutes so I started it up with the water level just below the hot water line in the tank. I was checking the cylinder head temp during the test but it never got above 140 degrees and the air bubbles in the top lines showed no indication of moving.

I started the second tank of fuel and the only thing that changed was the head temp was up to 170 degrees. I was rather disappointed that I could not get the air out of the system. I even filled the tank level to 3/4" above the hot water line. Well that was even worse so I removed enough water to just below the hot water line and was resigned to the fact that the cooling system would have to be remade in order to get it to work properly.

On the third tank of gas the cylinder head temp was up to 185 degrees. I then noticed that I was getting some steam out of the hot water line. I then very slowly added a little water and most of the air bubbles were pushed out of the lines. I continued to add water until the level was 3/4" above the hot line and things really started to change. The cylinder head temp dropped to 150 degrees and you could see the water moving in the lines.
What I believe happened is that the water had expanded enough in the water jackets to push the air out of the system and when the water level got above the pipe the siphon effect took over. I don't plan on draining the water from the engine but I will make a cover for the tank to keep the junk out and also add some chemicals to the water.

So here is the final video with a special look at the timing gears.
This video was taken during the second tank of gas when the water level below the hot water line.


I want to thank everyone for all the likes, comments and for just looking.
Ray
 
Well that is pretty slick ! Nicely done.
The driven gear does look like it is running nice and true. 👍

If you do drain the water, I wonder if you could pressure prime the system ? A plunger to push down the water. You would have do it below the return, or suck it through from the return ? Shop vac ?

As always, really nice job !!

Thanks for all the detailed posts, it was fun following along :)

Scott
 

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