Fabricated Crank Shaft.

[chucketn]

Gus, Painted Post is about 50 mi. west of where I was raised. Left in 1969 when I entered the USAF. I think Ingersoll-Rand was still active in Cortland when I retired in 1991.

Chuck

 

[goldstar31]

Why has no one mentioned using solder paste as a way to stick parts together/

I do not mean solder flux but a paste made from finely powdered tin( for soft soldering) or silver( for hard soldering/brazing) in an acid( cleaning) flux.

Makes life a lot easier if one is taking those first steps in joining metals.

Regards

Norman

 

[goldstar31]

Thanks Charles! Once both are 'tinned'( be it silver or tin) the pin can be squeezed in- and melted.
OK, the silver does lose some silver but a wee bit of high silver snipped and re-fluxed with borax should wick in if there are gaps.

It's only boiler making. Nothing to get one's knickers in a knot which seems to be happening.

We- and I mean the kids of say 16 doing their first welds for a City and Guilds course, had to play about with test pieces first. There is not much joy when you have spent all that time and effort in- dare I say it- finally making a lash up?

Clean, flux,practice, clean, flux, practice--- and stop writing to forums about your woes and noes. Get in, it's only metal.

Norman

 

[Cymro77]

Tony, thanks for the reply and very helpfull hints. I am currently trying your glue and pin idea. If it is not successful I shall try some of your other suggestions. Incidentally I noticed you are from Cardiff, S. Wales. That happens to be my home town as a child. I hope to be home for a visit in March. Your photos are very informative and helpfull. Best wishes for the New Year, thanks for the help.

 

[Cymro77]

Norman, if your woes and no's comment was directed at me you got it wrong. I merely was describing what I had tried and what I was trying to do. No woes here, it is a learning experience for me, I am having fun! Best wishes for the New Year, DW

 

[Hopper]

Cymro77 wrote:
I have been trying unsuccesfully for some time to make a double throw crankshaft for a twin cylinder steam engine. Crankshaft diameter is 1/8th. inch. Webs are also 1/8 thick, throw is 1/4". I have tried drilling slightly undersize and pressing the shaft and web together, unsuccesfull because it ended up out of square.


Try reaming the holes to size, then fit silver steel or ground bar for the crank pins etc.
Drilled holes are pretty rough - not necessarily square or round or in any way consistent. A correctly reamed hole will be spot on.

 

[Cymro77]

Hopper, thanks for that piece of advice. You have just enlightened me to a fact that should have been obvious, yet I never knew it. Drilled holes are not as accurate as reamed. I always thought the reaming was just to polish the hole, now I see the reason for drilling slightly undersize then reaming! another eureka moment for me.

Thanks, dw

 

[goldstar31]

Hopper, thanks for that piece of advice. You have just enlightened me to a fact that should have been obvious, yet I never knew it. Drilled holes are not as accurate as reamed. I always thought the reaming was just to polish the hole, now I see the reason for drilling slightly undersize then reaming! another eureka moment for me.

Thanks, dw

However- however- a new reamer generally is oversize. Opinions differ but a silver soldered pin can be remelted and adjusted. The joint WILL needed a higher melt than before- but it can be adjusted.

Of course, if you were on a desert island or in another timewarp, you could pee on the joint or use salt or your own vomit and the subsequent corrosion would lock the joint. :wall: No? Old boiler makers did not weld their boilers or pipes or whatever.

Clears throat- retires to the old peoples home.

Norman

 

[Cymro77]

I have just completed the engine - with a new crankshaft pinned and loctite. First time I put the air to her she purred like a kitten!! Since I don't know how to post a photo on this page I shall put it on the Engines page.

DW