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canadianhorsepower

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Hi all:thumbup:
this is the start from my EDM Pulse machine
This first post will explain and show pictures of why I'm using them.
The first one is a measuring tool.

It allows you to measure the proper distance between holes on you PCB and the bend your parts accordingly :thumbup:

My second one is an LCR L (inductor) C (capacitor) R (resistor) all it does it measure LCR without holding them in your finger (changing the reading) MY BEST BUDDY here's why !!!!!!!!!!
I'm going to measure a 1000uF capacitor. These are all brand new parts BUT any electrolytic CAPACITOR are self destructing . Take a new one leave it on the shelf in a moist environment 2 years it's a door knob. Picture #1check the value on the cap
Now check the value one the meter:) Fine
But now this is where **** breaks loose !!!
still checking a 1000uF capacitor. and the values are :fan:
Not a chance my circuits would have work fine
Be careful :D

3favorite tools.jpg


13cap value meter.jpg


13cap value.jpg


11cap value.jpg


12cap value meter.jpg
 
Electrolyt capacitors have capacity tolerance 30%.
for your info

The percentage of allowed deviation of the measured capacitance from the rated value is called the capacitance tolerance. Electrolytic capacitors are available in different tolerance series, whose values are specified in the E series specified in IEC 60063. For abbreviated marking in tight spaces, a letter code for each tolerance is specified in IEC 60062.
rated capacitance, series E3, tolerance ±20%, letter code "M"
rated capacitance, series E6, tolerance ±20%, letter code "M"
rated capacitance, series E12, tolerance ±10%, letter code "K"

so in worst case 20% of 1000 is 200.
so 1000-200=800 minimum :wall:
one was at 672
 
ok here we go again.
here are the description of the next Pictures
Enjoy
#1 pcb board empty
#2 went in my shop and pick up, resistors,caps, diode, potentiometer. Lucky I had all of them
#3 using my little tool to measure the hole width I needed
#4 use the same tool to bend my resistor
#5 this is a plated throw board, so i'm holding the resistor by one lead with alligator clip.
#6 reverse side of the board, i'll solder the lead standing up first
#7 then will straighten my lead and solder number 2
#8 the PCB board after a few hours of fun all the value of the caps can be read and resistor code are from left to right
#9 this is the assembly sheet i'm using. If you look on the left hand side there is 2 check mark. The first one when I took the parts of my shelf
and the second one when it's soldered on the board. This is the best way not to get confuse.

1 PCB boardcrop.jpg


2 caps doides...crop.jpg


4 measure the with.jpg


5 bend your lead s.jpg


6 clamp to your board with an aligator clip.jpg
 
Is this in kit form ? Looks like a great project.
 
Yes and no
it's not a Kit form. It is so well instructed that all you want to do is go ahead and build it.
teaching robotic and manufacturing a lot of project kind of push ma against the wall and keep some parts in
stock.It is very well documented and the author will respond to any email within 24hrs
 
Canadianhorsepower honestly I did not intend to criticise you
I wish you were successful in this project and I am
really interested in your progress.
Sometime in my company //when company want to change a vendor//
I have to check hundreds of condensers from new vendor and on some new pieces is possible to find huge capacity differences.
By the way is there difference in capacity reading at 120 HZ and 1 kHz frequency ?
Just curious
 
It would be nice if you could supply the addresses for the build and where to obtain things such as the circuit board.

Then people would be able to see how difficult or easy a project it would be and if they could attempt the same build.


John
 
Last edited:
OK haven't been posting alot lately
the first picture is what I have completed so far with the parts I had in stock.
Picture 2 is the order that came in today from Mouser. alot more soldering to do
after assembling the case before we go to the mechanical parts.
ENJOY

board.jpg


order.jpg
 
Ok the main board is all assemble :)
I cut to pieces of lexan that I will mount both fans on,
as you can see there is 8 heatsink :fan: cooling is important.
one picture of parts already receive and still waiting for more
should come in this week:)
enjoy

for those wondering what it would look like and what it can do here is a good video

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BzXqrX-HlI[/ame]

DSC_0525.jpg


DSC_0526.jpg


DSC_0527.jpg


DSC_0528.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi Luc,

Thank you for this thread, I saw your original post ... and followed your link and went and bought the same kit that evening as always have been curious about EDM but never for a second thought you could build one at home. I will be a bit behind you as it will take me a month or so to get the gear from the USA. :(

Watching with keen interest.

Cheers.
.adrian
 
I will be a bit behind you as it will take me a month or so to get the gear from the USA. :(

Watching with keen interest.

Cheers.
.adrian

Hi Adrian.

after doing allot of research for good price this is what I came up with.

Mouser as quoted in the book for everything beside Transformers and analog
meters.DO NOT GO DIGITAL on the meter it's not accurate enough.

Digikey for the transformers.

Futurelec.electronic for the analog meter.

I might build one transformer to replace the 3 of 24volts 10 amps
if I take this direction I'll post how it's done.

as for the "RAM" itself mine will be coming from Bandgood. can't make one for the price they sell one

BTW
The PCB board is a plated thru board and does not allow any mistake
removing soldered parts is almost a miracle.

good luck enjoy
 
Thanks Luc,

Still waiting for the book and board but Ben has sent me the parts list so have put an order into mouser which for me is out of HK, so at least I should have 90% of the bits to get a good start when it arrives.

Thanks for the lead on digikey and futurelec, will use the for the bits you mention. My maker side of the skill set is pretty good, and I can solider but my electronics working knowledge is average ... :confused: but it sounds like it is pretty straight forward. :hDe:

P.s thanks for the photo of the pace former, I had never seen one of those! Took a bit of tracking down but I think I have found a set in OZ. Now the components will look neat as opposed to looking like they were pushed in by a 5 yr old :thumbup:

Cheers,
.adrian
 
Update
ok haven't post many things cause i've been busy :D
the pictures update you are having now shows the complete
control board assembly:thumbup: and after all the test shows that
all the readings are good. Because this generate quite a bit of heat and heating is expensive i decide to add an extra cooling fan for the driver,:fan:. then was afraid to get all the other components to hot I made custom stand off and incorporate a squirrel cage for cooling . All cooling channels are made of acrylic and will be grounded . the to EXTRA pictures are the etched front panel and the fully assemble front panel.
Enjoy

DSC_0590crop.jpg


DSC_0592crop.jpg


DSC_0593crop.jpg


DSC_0595crop.jpg


DSC_0596crop.jpg


DSC_0597.jpg


DSC_0598.jpg


etched+front+panel.jpg


FullSizeRender.jpg
 
Starting to look good Luc, still waiting for the book, and Mouser has come up short on some components so yet to find a source for the missing items as not going to wait until Oct. Did u do the panel design or was that info in the book ? I was going to mill mine on the cnc, but just wondered how you worked out the graduations for the reostat's?

Cheers,
.adrian
 
Ok I have some pics of the update.
I had to change the lexan pieces I was using
to small . then I decide to run channel for the fan draft.
I finally receive all parts to assemble the electronic parts in the case.
I will be going in MY direction as far as circuits update goes.
The biggest problem is heat and constancy. many more temp probe will be added and fan controlling also. Don't worry all the additional information will be posted. Enjoy the picks.
 

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