Thanks all for the replies and information, very much appreciated.
Thanks for starting an interesting thread.
The primary issue with Stainless 316 is work hardening which can have a spectacular impact on cutting tools. To avoid this one needs to keep the SFPM low and the feed rate somewhat aggressive. Many cold saws simply run too fast and will eventually rub, once the tool rub you have an almost instant hardened surface.
I won't be doing a huge amount of cutting of SS but want accurate cuts when I do. I've been mostly cutting 2mm wall box section around 25x25mm.
That is a tough wall thickness to deal with as it is close to too thin for saw blades. On the other hand abrasive techniques can put a lot if heat into cuts this thick.
I have one of the basic metal bandsaws and have cut 2mm walled tubing but you have to be careful if the teeth pitch on the blade isn't fine enough. The blade can easily catch, stalling or breaking off teeth and this is in mild steel. If you expect to do a lot of tubing this thin on a band saw, id first verify that you can get very fine pitched saw blades for the saw.
A common technique on band saws to cut thin sectioned forms is to orient the walls at 45 degrees to the blade. This is easy with angle iron. With box sections you would need to rig something up.
Not big I know and I've previously used an angle grinder with metal cutoff wheel. Works ok but not the most accurate. I was hoping to use a chop saw like the Evolution or the Makita for accuracy and ease of use combined with the fact I could use it for other metals etc.
This brings up an interesting question which is more useful in the home shop, a bandsaw or a chop saw??? Personally id lean towards a band saw especially if you want to cut solids in a variety of steels.
I already have a mitre saw which I use for wood but wanted to see if anyone had recommendations for a good metal chop saw.
A wood oriented miter saw can do wonders in Aluminum with the proper blade. I have a metal cutting blade on mine right now. I wouldn't even consider using it on steel much less thin cross section stainless steel.
I've just finished building a new workshop and will be adding to my list of machines over time. All DIY and hobby work. A band saw also sounds appealing but wasn't sure whether these would eat through blades quicker and wasn't sure what else I'd use a band saw for.
Id go with a bandsaw if your intention is to do anything more than modest metal work. Consider this cutting 3/8" or 1/2" bar is pretty easy with a hacksaw when doing a one off. Do ten and a bandsaw becomes amazingly delightful. Frankly it can be the difference between putting off a project and moving forward.
If you are looking at bandsaws id suggest getting the bigger models over the 4x6 cut off machines. I have a Grizzly 4 x 6 and like all similar models it is bottom of the barrel. In my case i seem to be lucky in that it cuts very square leaving a surprisingly good finish. I do have Starrett blades installed.
The reason i suggest bigger is that the general quality goes up with price. The vise on the 4 x 6 leaves a lot to be desired for example. The leg assembly (stand) is a complete joke. However the unit is dirt cheap and the problems addressable.
As you can see I'm biased towards a bandsaw. Im not sure where the fears about blade life come from. Think about it this way, how many teeth are there on a circular saw blade vs a bandsaw blade. If you go abrasive cut off those blades don't last long at all and perform poorly on thicker materials.
In your case you have a specific need that does require careful consideration due to the thin walls of the tubing you are using. As such id suggest a finer pitch blade than normal and fixturing the parts in the vise at 45 degrees. Your goal is to keep two teeth (ideally three) engaged in the ways at all times.
