Clausing 8250 mill?

[f350ca]

Andrew
Automotive enamel paints use hardener. You can get it from Napa or similar auto supply places. Makes the world of difference with Tremcad or its clones. Follow the directions, and your regular enamel will set up in about an hour rather than days, have a beter shine and tougher finish.
If the kerosene doesn't loosen up the old grease try paint thiner, might be a little more aggressive. Look the spindle bearings over real close, if any doubt replace them.
Good luck
Greg

 

[krv3000]

Hi carbe cleaner is good for cleaning Bering's

 

[Catminer]

Carb cleaner or varsol. Wash,rinse,blow dry and repeat.
I agree about Rustoleum, what about TSC's machinery enamels?
You might have a problem getting hardeners for non waterborne
paints. If your going to try I have some urethane hardener going to
waste that your welcome to.
Any excuse to come down to Woodstock and visit my new grandson again
anyway.

Peter

 

[lazylathe]

Thanks guys!

Peter, i did not know that you had adopted me!!!! :big:
Does that mean i can come and use your tools and leave you the mess to clean up??? :big:

Congratulations once again!!!!
You know the drill, whenever you are down in this part stop by!!
You are always welcome!!!

I am going to have a look and see what the local TSC stocks.
Hopefully they will have something.

I will also look into NAPA although i really dislike the guys that work there!!
Too lazy to get off their a**e* to help....

Andrew

 

[lazylathe]

So i stopped off at TSC last night to pick up a small can of Ford Grey paint.
One would think it would be a grey colour, right?

Well it is not actually grey...
Actually more like an appliance beige...
And to top it off it is still tacky this morning....
Think i will return it tonight and get another can to see if it contains some grey paint!

Here is a bad picture of the colour!
The primer on the left is grey!

I may also get a can of the gloss black to add to the grey to get a more acceptable colour!

Andrew

 

[Mosey]

I had great success painting my 8525 at Sherwin Williams. I took a piece that had original paint in good shape to them, and they matched it on their computor in their Industrial and Marine finishes, which they don't tell you about, but is in their line. I painted both the mill and my lathe with a low pressure sprayer in place. It is quite hard and durable years later. I still have most of a gallon left.
I will look for a color but don't think there is one.
You can see it in my picture posts.

 

[lazylathe]

Why i did not try this stuff before astounds me!!!
I want to personally thank everyone that mentions it in a post!!!
Utterly amazing stuff to say the least!!!

What am i talking about???
CARB CLEANER!!!!!

A few squirts in those seized bearings and the crud comes out!!
Spin them around a few times to get all the crus out and they feel like new again!

I think i have a new friend!!! ;D

Also bought some other paint, battleship grey in colour!!
Looks pretty good in the can!

Well i gotta go and strip some more paint...

Andrew

 

[Sic Semper Tyrannis]

Keep it off your skin it can mess with your liver!

 

[lazylathe]

For sure!
The more toxic something is the better it works!

I always work with solvent gloves when working with chemicals like that.
Safety first!

The warnings on the can are enough to scare anyone away from using the stuff!

If you work carefully with it there will be no problems.

Thanks for the heads up!!!
Much appreciated!

Andrew

 

[lazylathe]

YAY!!!!! :big:
It is almost done!!!

Spent the weekend reassembling the mill.
All the lower ball bearings have been replaced, thanks for the help it worked perfectly!
Nice and smooth action now!!
I am thinking of using some JBWeld in the X-Axis lead screw nut as it is a bit loose.

Still need to buy the VFD and hook it all up!
Once that is done and i can assess the state of the head bearings i will make the decision of whether they need to be replaced or if they are okay i will strip and paint it to match.

SWMBO has a large "Honey-Do" list not that the weather is getting warmer...
I have another room to remodel and once summer hits i have the backyard to contend with!!

And it seems like we are rescuing a small pure bred Cairn Terrier!
The owner, who works with my wife and is single, has found a boyfriend and now has a life and no time for the dog!
I hate/despise people like that...
And this is the dogs second home already...
At least we will look after it and it will not be left locked up for 13 hours a day....

Anywho, i will be doing a write up on the mill restoration soon with pictures!!!

Andrew

 

[Mosey]

If yours has a nut that use a wrench to lock the spindle vertical movement, may I suggest that you make a ball-ended lever similar to that on the spindle feed that you have. Red ball is nice. Good luck with it, you will come to love your Clausing.
Did I hear someone say that Clausing parts were available again?

 

[lazylathe]

Thanks Mosey!

I contacted Clausing about a month ago and have not heard back from them...
Doubtful if parts are available again.

I ordered the VFD this morning and should have it in a week!!!! ;D :big: ;D

Andrew

 

[Mosey]

When you're ready, I can show you how I mounted some inexpensive but good DRO's on it. Twice.
Enjoy. Do get a set of ER Collets and stop driving yourself crazy with MT-2's. No more beating on drawbar.

 

[lazylathe]

How do you mount the ER collets?
Is there an MT2 to ER adapter?

The drawbars it came with were made too short...
I had to turn the bolt shorter before they would grip the collet threads.
Works quite well now!

Very interested in the ER option though!

Andrew

 

[Sic Semper Tyrannis]

Yeah more info on ER collets AND cheap DRO mounts!!!

Thanks in advance!!!

 

[Mosey]

Yes, I bought an MT-2 holder with a set of ER-25 collets from AllesGute (no connection)on EBay. They cost about $110.00. I like them, and they seem to be reasonably accurate. Changing mills is a snap, as you just lock the spindle lightly and pop in a new collet and slide the mill or whatever into the collet, give it a light turn on the nut and you are good to go. The holder is threaded for 3/8" x 16, just use your existing drawbar, tighten it once and that's the last time. I'll photo the DRO's and post them soon.

 

[lazylathe]

Lucky me!!
Thanks to Arnold's suggestion i have a full set of ER-25 collets for my R8 mini mill!!!
Just need the MT2 to ER holder and i will be good to go!!!

Thanks Mosey!

And pics of the DRO install and what kind would be excellent!!!

Andrew

 

[Mosey]

Andrew,
Here are some pics of my DRO installation on the Clausing. The DRO's are the New Grizzly stainless steel ones with the integral remote readouts. They seem to be OK. If you have any specific questions, I will be happy to answer.
I have yet to mount the remotes, so they are sitting on the table right now. I'm working on a bracket up high.

 

[lazylathe]

Thanks for the pics Mosey!
I will have a look at the DRO's you are using.

I see you also have a power feed on your table.
Is that one you fitted yourself?
It does not look like a standard item that came with the mill.

Andrew

 

[Mosey]

No, it's one I put on years ago. Got it cheap at about $150.00, made from bamboo, maybe from Penn Tool in NJ.. It necessitated a custom fit sleeve on the shaft but even I could handle it. The fuse popped every time you reversed, so I put a slow-blow fuse in it and it's still going. The fast forward died immediately. I'm too lazy to crank.
I used to have Shars DRO's on it, but they break, and their remotes expensive and are a pure waste of money.