Building Hit or Miss Claire Engine
- Thread starter Jack B
- Start date
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Milling the Connecting Rod
This is a nice piece of scrap aluminum from the 73 series. I am going to make my Connecting Rod out of it. The piece is 1/2 inch thick and it machines great.
I have sawed and rough milled the piece of stock to a rectangle shape. It is now being machined to the drawing sizes. I hold all my tolerances very close.
First step drilling the clamp holes.
This is a nice piece of scrap aluminum from the 73 series. I am going to make my Connecting Rod out of it. The piece is 1/2 inch thick and it machines great.
I have sawed and rough milled the piece of stock to a rectangle shape. It is now being machined to the drawing sizes. I hold all my tolerances very close.
First step drilling the clamp holes.
Hi Kel I was away from the computer for a few days or I would have responded sooner.
Those screws are 4-40. I started them while the top was still on using it for a guide. After I cut it off with the slitting saw I finshed tapping them. I use Cool Tool for my cutting fluid. Jack B
Those screws are 4-40. I started them while the top was still on using it for a guide. After I cut it off with the slitting saw I finshed tapping them. I use Cool Tool for my cutting fluid. Jack B
Hi Nick
The reamers I have used so far are machine reamers. I bought some at a yard sale a couple of years ago. They have Morse tappers on the shank. I cut the taper off the duplicate ones and made them short for the miller and drill press. I can put Morse tapers in my lathe tailstock. Like you I use whatever I need. I also have assorted reamers with straight shanks.
I will put the rest of the Connecting Rod pictures on shortly as soon as I can upload them. Jack B
The reamers I have used so far are machine reamers. I bought some at a yard sale a couple of years ago. They have Morse tappers on the shank. I cut the taper off the duplicate ones and made them short for the miller and drill press. I can put Morse tapers in my lathe tailstock. Like you I use whatever I need. I also have assorted reamers with straight shanks.
I will put the rest of the Connecting Rod pictures on shortly as soon as I can upload them. Jack B
Turning the taper on the Connecting Rod.
There are three ways to turn a taper. One using a taper attachment, two is offsetting the tailstock and the way I picked was to offset the lathe compound. Mine has more then enough travel. A little trig and I figured that the angle needed would be about 1 degree and 11 minutes. I took a trial cut and everything was ok so I cut to size. I ground a radius on a spare cut off tool and it worked great.
Here you can see the whole setup.
There are three ways to turn a taper. One using a taper attachment, two is offsetting the tailstock and the way I picked was to offset the lathe compound. Mine has more then enough travel. A little trig and I figured that the angle needed would be about 1 degree and 11 minutes. I took a trial cut and everything was ok so I cut to size. I ground a radius on a spare cut off tool and it worked great.
Here you can see the whole setup.
All parts assembled to date.
The List
Base plate--Two Upright Body Plates--Two Main Bearings-- Crank Shaft
Spacer Block--Cylinder-- Cylinder Head--Connecting Rod--Wrist Pin
Wrist Pin Bracket--Piston--Points--Fly Wheel--Cam--Spark Plug
There are still some unique parts to make. Micrometer is for scale. Jack B
The List
Base plate--Two Upright Body Plates--Two Main Bearings-- Crank Shaft
Spacer Block--Cylinder-- Cylinder Head--Connecting Rod--Wrist Pin
Wrist Pin Bracket--Piston--Points--Fly Wheel--Cam--Spark Plug
There are still some unique parts to make. Micrometer is for scale. Jack B
zeeprogrammer
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Very nice looking engine.
Good thread too! Lots of interesting tidbits.
Good thread too! Lots of interesting tidbits.
The next parts to make are the Intake and Exhaust Valve Bodies. I am going to carry these two along for the most part together. Some of the milling operations and a great deal of the lathe operations require similar set ups. Keeping my mind on doing two at one time will be tricky . I find some of these drawings difficult to read so I put them in my scanner and enlarged them. This makes them a little easier to understand. I have a short length of one inch square CRS that I will use. The Exhaust Valve Body is first. I am machining sizes in the vertical miller.
