Building Hit or Miss Claire Engine
- Thread starter Jack B
- Start date
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Thanks Kel: The dowl is a good one to start truing with. I also had to be concerned that the face of the part was also true so I swept accross it next. I trued the face and went back and checked the dowl. It needed a little touch and both dowl and face were true. It takes patience and a good indicator.
Jack B
Jack B
Intake Valve Body opposite side,Trueing the hole.
After I trued the hole I ran the indicator along the length of the piece to true the face.
My Dad bought me this micrometer in 1950 when I was a student in a vocational high school. Important dimension .812. All new dimensions on this side will come from this face.
After I trued the hole I ran the indicator along the length of the piece to true the face.
My Dad bought me this micrometer in 1950 when I was a student in a vocational high school. Important dimension .812. All new dimensions on this side will come from this face.
Maryak
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Jack,
It sure is a different design to the Depenbusch I am trying to make. I see now, (I think), where your inlet valve goes. Anyway it sure is looking good. :bow:
So many WIPs - It's getting harder and harder to keep up with everything.
This is great for our forum but hard on the individual.
Best Regards
Bob
It sure is a different design to the Depenbusch I am trying to make. I see now, (I think), where your inlet valve goes. Anyway it sure is looking good. :bow:
So many WIPs - It's getting harder and harder to keep up with everything.
This is great for our forum but hard on the individual.
Best Regards
Bob
Setup in miller to drill deep hole. Angle plate resting on it's side. Part is nested to keep it up straight. C clamp pulls one way and vise jaw pushes against solid jaw.
Center of drilled hole picked up with edge finder.
Depth is set for finish drill.
A little blue pencil lead to find zero mark easier.
Center of drilled hole picked up with edge finder.
Depth is set for finish drill.
A little blue pencil lead to find zero mark easier.
I got a couple of hours yesterday to put into the shop. I set up the lathe to cut this diameter on the Intake valve body. Centers are lined up with the deep hole drilled in the vertical miller. This is a touchy diameter to cut because the wall thickness is very thin. I am using light cuts and slow feed. Better safe then sorry. I have to be cautious about breaking through. Jack B
Back to miller to drill two holes and mill off a small amount of stock on the end. This piece came out good following this procedure. Someone else could get equal results using a procedure they were comfortable with. Jack B
Now to finish up the holes in the Exhaust Valve Body. Piece is held between two scrap pieces of aluminum. My ever present edge finder that I use constantly is shown.
Center drill and finish drill.
Finished Exhaust Valve Body and the two holding fixtures. There are more components to add but this is the body itself. In my machinist career I worked in many Job Shops. We always had to get the job done in the least amount of time. Our holding fixtures ninety percent of the time were just something that would work, nothing fancy. These two pieces of aluminum will return to the scrap box and probably never will be used again.
The Port Hole Block is the next and last of these three Intake and Exhaust bodies to be made. Jack B
Center drill and finish drill.
Finished Exhaust Valve Body and the two holding fixtures. There are more components to add but this is the body itself. In my machinist career I worked in many Job Shops. We always had to get the job done in the least amount of time. Our holding fixtures ninety percent of the time were just something that would work, nothing fancy. These two pieces of aluminum will return to the scrap box and probably never will be used again.
The Port Hole Block is the next and last of these three Intake and Exhaust bodies to be made. Jack B
5/8 by 3/4 by 1 inch piece of CRS for the Port hole Block. This is an important piece that holds the Intake Valve Body and the Exhaust Valve Body.
There is not enough room to slide the anvil on my one inch micrometer between the parallels to get a reading. So I use my gage blocks and my Last Word Indicator to get the measurement. It is quick and accurate.
Holes need to be right on so I use my edgefinder and milling stop.
There is not enough room to slide the anvil on my one inch micrometer between the parallels to get a reading. So I use my gage blocks and my Last Word Indicator to get the measurement. It is quick and accurate.
Holes need to be right on so I use my edgefinder and milling stop.
Today I worked on the Carburetor Jet. It gives one a lot of practice on tiny hole drilling. This picture shows the number 60 drill (.040) going to a depth of 1/2 inch. It meets up with the number 55 drill (.060) that was drilled in 5/8 inch from the opposite end. My large Jacob's Drill Chuck won't close tight enough to grip the small diameter drills so that is why a second smaller chuck is being used. Turning the blank was just straight forward so I didn't bother to photograph it.
Number 60 drill to make a jet in the Intake Valve Body. I am using two vises and drilled in the vertical miller for accuracy. I used my edge finder to pick up the spot.
I have now moved on to the Needle Valve which is the joining piece to this assembly. I am preparing the outside diameter for knurling.
Number 60 drill to make a jet in the Intake Valve Body. I am using two vises and drilled in the vertical miller for accuracy. I used my edge finder to pick up the spot.
I have now moved on to the Needle Valve which is the joining piece to this assembly. I am preparing the outside diameter for knurling.
