Building Hit or Miss Claire Engine
- Thread starter Jack B
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That tapping block is a great idea. I'll be making one of those tonight.
I'll be watching!
Steve
I'll be watching!
Steve
Hi Jeff
Glad your watching your encouragement keeps me working at it steady. I have a nice heated shop but I can only work several hours a day. I love working in the shop and these projects are just great. Thanks for your interest. Jack B
Glad your watching your encouragement keeps me working at it steady. I have a nice heated shop but I can only work several hours a day. I love working in the shop and these projects are just great. Thanks for your interest. Jack B
Hi Steve
The tapping block is not fool proof but it is a great help. I was tapping a 6-32 blind hole a couple of days ago and the tap broke. I was using the tapping block and taking short turns of the tap wrench and got about 1/4 of an inch in. I was backing off on each turn. I was in steel and using Tap Majic. I was able to get the broken tap out with a pair of tweezers by turning it. I have confidence in that tapping block. Jack B
The tapping block is not fool proof but it is a great help. I was tapping a 6-32 blind hole a couple of days ago and the tap broke. I was using the tapping block and taking short turns of the tap wrench and got about 1/4 of an inch in. I was backing off on each turn. I was in steel and using Tap Majic. I was able to get the broken tap out with a pair of tweezers by turning it. I have confidence in that tapping block. Jack B
Continuing with the Upright Body Plates I am using the Rong Fu cut off saw to remove most of the stock on the corners for ease of milling.
Set up and ready to mill in the Index Vertical miller with a 1/2 inch four flute end mill.
Milled to size. Next will 45 degree cut the corners.
Set up and ready to mill in the Index Vertical miller with a 1/2 inch four flute end mill.
Milled to size. Next will 45 degree cut the corners.
Decorative angles being cut. Machining to the line is OK.
I am now machining the Spacer Block which is a rectangle shape an is being milled with a 1/2 inch end mill. The scrap round piece of aluminum stock was partially cut before and I am recycling it.
Machining the .875 dimension that is critical. The paper shims can be added to or subtracted for a perfect dimension.
I am now machining the Spacer Block which is a rectangle shape an is being milled with a 1/2 inch end mill. The scrap round piece of aluminum stock was partially cut before and I am recycling it.
Machining the .875 dimension that is critical. The paper shims can be added to or subtracted for a perfect dimension.
The Spacer Block is positioned between the two Up Right Body Plates. The .875 dimension is very important to maintain spacing between the Body Plates. It will also serve as a motor mount. I was trying to be extra careful milling the Frame and Spacer Block. I can now start adding parts and it will look like progress is being made.
Jack B
Jack B
The (CRS) steel stock for the Cylinder is shown in the three jaw chuck. I have turned two diameters. The outer diameter is for holding purposes. The short diameter is for tool bit clearance so it makes a full cut and clears the chuck jaws. I have found in the past that a piece like this jammed against the jaws holds well for moderate cuts. This stock that was cut to a convenient length came from a scrap pile.
A center hole is drilled and a live center is being used while doing the turning operations. This picture gives a good view of the holding technique.
1.500 Diameter is finished and .874 diameter by .406 length is being produced. The .874 diameter will be a tight sliding fit into the .875 hole in the Cylinder Head.
A center hole is drilled and a live center is being used while doing the turning operations. This picture gives a good view of the holding technique.
1.500 Diameter is finished and .874 diameter by .406 length is being produced. The .874 diameter will be a tight sliding fit into the .875 hole in the Cylinder Head.
A series of step drills up to 23/32 are being used to open the hole that will finish at .750.
A boring bar is sharpened and centered.
Before the boring operation begins a dial indicator is used to check for concentricity. Sometime a piece can move slightly during drilling. This check only takes a few seconds. The piece is perfect for the boring operation.
A boring bar is sharpened and centered.
Before the boring operation begins a dial indicator is used to check for concentricity. Sometime a piece can move slightly during drilling. This check only takes a few seconds. The piece is perfect for the boring operation.
The boring bar is just starting it's cut. This should true the bore to the outside diameter.
The .750 reamer is just exiting the bored hole. I left .005 for reaming.
------ I am looking for your comments on this question. The designer of the engine recommends lapping the reamed hole. When the engine cylinders were re bored during a rebuild on my 1928 Model A Ford the automotive machinist told me to rough up the cylinders with a hone and an electric drill. I did and after 25 years of continuous use the engine still runs great has a lot of pep and don't burn any oil. So I am asking for advice should I leave the bore a good ream finish or lap it smooth ?
The .750 reamer is just exiting the bored hole. I left .005 for reaming.
------ I am looking for your comments on this question. The designer of the engine recommends lapping the reamed hole. When the engine cylinders were re bored during a rebuild on my 1928 Model A Ford the automotive machinist told me to rough up the cylinders with a hone and an electric drill. I did and after 25 years of continuous use the engine still runs great has a lot of pep and don't burn any oil. So I am asking for advice should I leave the bore a good ream finish or lap it smooth ?
slick95
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Jack
Looking great.
I used a brake honing tool (for brake wheel cylinders) on my cylinder for my Duclos Odds N' Ends and made the rings according to the Duclos instructions and the compression just seems to get better each running of the engine.
I'm no expert here just followed the instructions and it worked, or I lucked out.
Jeff
Looking great.
I used a brake honing tool (for brake wheel cylinders) on my cylinder for my Duclos Odds N' Ends and made the rings according to the Duclos instructions and the compression just seems to get better each running of the engine.
I'm no expert here just followed the instructions and it worked, or I lucked out.
Jeff
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Jack,
I love your step by step process on boreing a cylinder. How many drill sizes, or "steps", did you use before using the boring bar?
About the honing. I cannot be certain what the designer had in mind for this engine, but honing the bore creates a croshatch pattern in the cylinder wich gives the oil a place to hide and still lubricate without just simply getting wiped out of the way by the piston. With an open crank design like this, the honing is a pretty good idea.
I love your step by step process on boreing a cylinder. How many drill sizes, or "steps", did you use before using the boring bar?
About the honing. I cannot be certain what the designer had in mind for this engine, but honing the bore creates a croshatch pattern in the cylinder wich gives the oil a place to hide and still lubricate without just simply getting wiped out of the way by the piston. With an open crank design like this, the honing is a pretty good idea.
Jack,
The way I do things, I would never bore AND ream.
I have a very good set of reamers up to 1/2", in 64ths, so that means I will ream if the bore is 1/2" and below. Trying to bore a long cylinder at those sizes can be a bit hit and miss with spring in the small boring tool. But on the other hand, I have been known to bore at small sizes, if I don't have a reamer to fit the requirement, but I will bore it like below, but put it thru with no cut on about double the amount.
Over half inch, I will bore the cylinder if at all possible, but finish off the boring by putting no cut on, a very fine feed, and run the tool in and out under power for maybe a dozen times. You will find that the finish is perfectly acceptable to either run straight away and let the engine bed itself in, I used to do it that way when making ic engines, or lap the piston to the bore for air/steam engines. If you use a rounded nose on your boring tool, you can get a bore finish like chrome.
If I needed to hone for an ic engine, invariably I would use a brake cylinder honing tool, starting with rough blocks and finishing off with very fine, to end up with superfine scoring to hold the oil. Brake cylinder hones are very cheap, but are limited by the size they will go down to, mine is about 3/4" minimum.
I think all ways have their own merits for the maker, it is just a matter of finding one that is suitable and acceptable to yourself, and then stick with it.
Blogs
The way I do things, I would never bore AND ream.
I have a very good set of reamers up to 1/2", in 64ths, so that means I will ream if the bore is 1/2" and below. Trying to bore a long cylinder at those sizes can be a bit hit and miss with spring in the small boring tool. But on the other hand, I have been known to bore at small sizes, if I don't have a reamer to fit the requirement, but I will bore it like below, but put it thru with no cut on about double the amount.
Over half inch, I will bore the cylinder if at all possible, but finish off the boring by putting no cut on, a very fine feed, and run the tool in and out under power for maybe a dozen times. You will find that the finish is perfectly acceptable to either run straight away and let the engine bed itself in, I used to do it that way when making ic engines, or lap the piston to the bore for air/steam engines. If you use a rounded nose on your boring tool, you can get a bore finish like chrome.
If I needed to hone for an ic engine, invariably I would use a brake cylinder honing tool, starting with rough blocks and finishing off with very fine, to end up with superfine scoring to hold the oil. Brake cylinder hones are very cheap, but are limited by the size they will go down to, mine is about 3/4" minimum.
I think all ways have their own merits for the maker, it is just a matter of finding one that is suitable and acceptable to yourself, and then stick with it.
Blogs
