RobWilson said:
Have you some idea in mined Arnold
Rob, when you posted that, I didn't have much of an idea yet - I left one of my braincells pondering (I don't have many, so as a result I didn't get much done for the last couple of days ;D) When I started with Fancy, I wanted to make her, well,
fancy - or at least as
fancy as I can :
Now for the progress...
This morning I started on the crankshaft. I decided to use brass for the web, so chucked and faced a bit of 3/4" brass. Then I used my smallest center-drill to just touch the stock, to get the center. I marked out the web while mounted (the center dimple is needed for the compasses to get the crank pin offset). For marking out, I really like the Myford's flat bed-ways - a quick wipe over the bed (to get rid of swarf) and drop (well, carefully place) a square on the bed & mark out:
Then, using the toolpost as a "steady" for my wrist, I punched marks for the crank pin and for the holes to help machine the web contour. I decided to make the crank-pin hole and machine the contour on the web before parting it off, so I set up the vertical slide and dividing head, transferred the chuck, and drilled the needed holes:
Then I put the the 4-jaw on the spindle with a centered 4mm bit and milled (well, gashed/hacked :hDe
![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
the web profile:
Notice the deep scratch left on the web surface by the biggish chunk of brass (similar to the one still left in the top of the photo) breaking off. That was very nearly a sticky-brown-pants moment...
For now, I don't have a riser block for the dividing head to fit it directly to the short cross-slide, nor do I have any way of mounting the chuck more rigidly to the cross-slide. There is also no way to mount the dividing head directly to the vertical slide and get in the ranges needed to mill this job, so I had to resort to using a cross-slide extension I made about a year ago - hence the non-rigidity in this milling set-up:
I then transferred the job back to the spindle, drilled the hole for the main shaft, faced off the scratch (fortunately I left some "meat"), and parted the web off. A quick turning job for the main shaft (from silver steel) to press-fit in the web with some "loctite", and then used my cheapy-Dremel-like tool to polish the web. The main shaft is handy for clamping the assembly in the big vice for polishing; shaft protected by a leather welding glove
![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
. Then I cut some 2mm piano wire for the crank pin with the Dremel (I use my Real Dremel for more important jobs
![Wink ;) ;)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
) and, thoroughly cleaned, I pressed it in (yes, with loctite
![Smile :) :)](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
). It's easier to polish the web face first - without the crank pin in the way :big: ) - so, one crank done:
If, by this point in reading, you haven't fallen asleep yet, I must compliment you on your tenacity Thm:
The singular braincell I left on duty for an idea eventually did have one! - make the flywheel from the cast iron specially obtained for the purpose, and mill 5 spokes in it with the flywheel locking pin and screw hidden inside of one of the spokes. Wow - brilliant idea :noidea: - except, after today's milling I'm not keen to repeat that! So I called a meeting between all the brain cells present (a couple were away chasing girls - I hope one of them gets lucky!).
Once I was able to impress the importance of the matter on the present brain cells, they came up with nearly as an insane solution as the original - build a multi-part flywheel - "mystery metal tube" for the outer part - from an old printer, 6 brass spokes (one of which doubles as the flywheel locking screw) - made from 2mm "brass" brazing rod, and a 12mm hub made from silver steel.... INSANE, but what the heck, I'll try it; if it fails, I'll just make a "plain" flywheel...
Center drilling the hub for one of the spoke locations - lots of 1.6mm holes after that :big: :
Today was finished off with 2mm threads in each of the hub's spoke locations (except for the one "plain" 2mm hole in one location for the "locking pin/spoke"
Regards, Arnold