Building an Oscillating Engine for my first engine

[malofix]

So i'll try to make sieg c1 compound slide parts by myself. The thing is i have only drill press to remove material from the work piece, so it'll be like drill close to the size then file it by hand. I'm not sure it'll work for the dovetail though. What do you guys think ? Especially on making the dovetail.

 

[Richard Hed]

So i'll try to make sieg c1 compound slide parts by myself. The thing is i have only drill press to remove material from the work piece, so it'll be like drill close to the size then file it by hand. I'm not sure it'll work for the dovetail though. What do you guys think ? Especially on making the dovetail.
View attachment 131845View attachment 131846

Use the other method -- no extensive filing, but when you get better equipment (which this can help to build), you can do as your drawing. I'll make a quick drawing and post in a bit.

 

[Richard Hed]

OK, here is a rough view of the two major constructions. You have to fill in the details, bolts and they way you attach this to the slide and to your tool holder.

 

[malofix]

I couldnt understand your drawings but i think you are suggesting that i make it from multiple parts instead of one single square block, like in the video you posted and instead of dovetails an L shaped fit? Now to think it might be better that way. What thickness of steel plate would you suggest for construction? And bolts sizes (In metric pls)?

 

[Richard Hed]

I couldnt understand your drawings but i think you are suggesting that i make it from multiple parts instead of one single square block, like in the video you posted? Now to think it might be better that way. What thickness of steel plate would you suggest for construction? And bolts sizes (In metric pls)?

Yes, that bottom drawing didn't show up correctly. I'll try to redo it. this is only a concept, you'll have to put it together using what you have or is available. You have to decide all your questions as it relates to your lathe--from the slide to the center of your spindle. I do not know what that is.

But you want this to be as thick as is practical but as thin as possible. Thickness is for strength and non-flexing, but thinness is so you can get as large a piece as possible over the whole system when you are cutting a long piece. This cross slide needs to be off to the side as far as possible so you have more room to put a larger piece in the 3 jaw. You will need to put a screw in there someplace and a nut so these will take up space also.

yes, multiple plates of steel bolted together. Make them tight so they fit together (the top and the bottom) so they slide easily but no slop.

 

[Steamchick]

If you buy gauge plate, it is ground top and bottom parallel, with square sides. Then if you get some pieces to suit you only need to drill and tap to join them together. Easy to make channels... I would use hex. Socket screws, with heads countersunk into the parts to make the basic shapes.
Your lathe can be used as a simple miller, say, for the mitres, by clamping a piece - carefully set-up - on the cross slide, and putting the milling cutter into the chuck.Then you can add cut with the main saddle feed, and traverse the workpiece across the milling tool by using the cross-feed.. Remember that the metal must be worked against the rotating tool. Otherwise the tool will drag the workpiece into the cut, and the slack in the feed screw will permit chatter and bad machining.
Enjoy the design and planning the manufacture!
K2

 

[malofix]

So i'm still designing the compound slide (or trying). I plan to use 5mm aluminum and steel plates at some places and 10mm at other places. The thing is i'm unsure how should i attach 5mm plates with other parts. Being 5mm it doesnt offer much space to drill and tap to use with screws. Probably i can use M1.6 or M2 screws or maybe i should use chemical bonding like loctite?

 

[Richard Hed]

So i'm still designing the compound slide (or trying). I plan to use 5mm aluminum and steel plates at some places and 10mm at other places. The thing is i'm unsure how should i attach 5mm plates with other parts. Being 5mm it doesnt offer much space to drill and tap to use with screws. Probably i can use M1.6 or M2 screws or maybe i should use chemical bonding like loctite?

If you made a drawing or showed us plans, maybe we could advise. We need to know the distance from the center of spindle to the top of the cross slide. I would stay away from aluminum as it is too soft and wears too quickly

 

[malofix]

If you made a drawing or showed us plans, maybe we could advise. We need to know the distance from the center of spindle to the top of the cross slide. I would stay away from aluminum as it is too soft and wears too quickly

Design is a mess right now but once it looks like something i'll post it here. Distance between center of spindle to the top of the cross slide is 17mm. Center of spindle is below the top of the cross slide (naturally ). I'll be using all steel plates i guess.

 

[Richard Hed]

Design is a mess right now but once it looks like something i'll post it here. Distance between center of spindle to the top of the cross slide is 17mm. Center of spindle is below the top of the cross slide (naturally ). I'll be using all steel plates i guess.

17 mm is only as big as yor thumb. I suppose you mean 170mm? What plan have you adopted? One of the ones I gave a crude drawing of? Yes, I thimpfks that 10mm is proabably OK, may a little thicker for the top part would be better, however.

 

[malofix]

17 mm is only as big as yor thumb. I suppose you mean 170mm? What plan have you adopted? One of the ones I gave a crude drawing of? Yes, I thimpfks that 10mm is proabably OK, may a little thicker for the top part would be better, however.

Nope 17mm. Yes i've used your plan mixed with my lathe's tool post dimensions. My tool post is as follows, 35x35mm x 55mm height. So 55mm is my top points extracted from the spindle center to the carriage( which is where i'll be mounting compound slide) that is 38mm. So distance is 17mm. But if you'd suggest i'd like to use bigger dimensions simply to use 10mm plates instead of 5mm. I dont know how big should compound slide be though.

 

[Richard Hed]

Nope 17mm. Yes i've used your plan mixed with my lathe's tool post dimensions. My tool post is as follows, 35x35mm x 55mm height. So 55mm is my top points extracted from the spindle center to the carriage( which is where i'll be mounting compound slide) that is 38mm. So distance is 17mm. But if you'd suggest i'd like to use bigger dimensions simply to use 10mm plates instead of 5mm. I dont know how big should compound slide be though.

OK, my mistake, It is hard to believe you have such a small working area. It's good for small parts and you will do fine with it. Yes, in fact, you might be better to reduce it to 8 or 7 mm just to help get some space in there. I suppose 5 mm might work--you are there, you can see the lathe, all the problems you need to solve, I am not there, words often do not tell the story well. That's why I ask for drawings, but I have seen a photo of your lathe, I just have a difficutl time believeing yuou only have 17mm.

 

[Richard Hed]

Wait a minute, I just viewed the lathe you put a link up for. This says from the top of the slide to the center is 140mm. That will give you the room you need. I'll try to draw up a "concept" for the "T" slots on your lathe. YOu will have to make it fit your dimensions, however.

 

[Steamchick]

Chemical bonding is nowhere near strong enough for joining metal in this sort of application. Riveting is a process that can use (say) 3 mm holes, 3mm rivets, with 1 mm land either side in a 5 mm bar. No waste, strong and secure.Ships used to be held together with rivets, and also aeroplanes... so properly designed joints can be as strong as the parent material. Or a couple of rivets for assembly, then silver solder?
K2

 

[Richard Hed]

Here is the bottom part comprising 4 parts that you simply bolt together using the "T" slots to hold it all together. The holes on the two side plates have to be made to span to the center of your T slots. The middle part has to be bolted to the bottom part. This middle part is the nut for the threaded upper sections screw.

OK, next for the top and screw.

 

[Richard Hed]

Here is the top section. You will need a handle for the screw, yu can make a dial. The threads, since you are doing metric, should be 10 or 1mm which will make the dial easy to make. How you make the threads is up to you. Make two bearings, one which is simply a holder, but the front one should be made in a manner which you can hold the end of the screw for pushing in and out.

If hyou make this all out of 5 mm, you should have a bit of room left over, you might be able to make it even thinner. Of course, the bearings and the nut on the bottom section have to be in line and matched up. That will take a bit of space too. attach the bearings by screw from the top

 

[Richard Hed]

Whoops, here is an addition tht is needed:

 

[malofix]

Chemical bonding is nowhere near strong enough for joining metal in this sort of application. Riveting is a process that can use (say) 3 mm holes, 3mm rivets, with 1 mm land either side in a 5 mm bar. No waste, strong and secure.Ships used to be held together with rivets, and also aeroplanes... so properly designed joints can be as strong as the parent material. Or a couple of rivets for assembly, then silver solder?
K2

I'll check into rivets. It looks like what i need.

Here is the bottom part comprising 4 parts that you simply bolt together using the "T" slots to hold it all together. The holes on the two side plates have to be made to span to the center of your T slots. The middle part has to be bolted to the bottom part. This middle part is the nut for the threaded upper sections screw.

OK, next for the top and screw.

Thanks i appreciate the time you took for this, i'll be checking it throughly, today i hope, and make my design based on yours. I'll post it here.

Here is the top section. You will need a handle for the screw, yu can make a dial. The threads, since you are doing metric, should be 10 or 1mm which will make the dial easy to make. How you make the threads is up to you. Make two bearings, one which is simply a holder, but the front one should be made in a manner which you can hold the end of the screw for pushing in and out.

If hyou make this all out of 5 mm, you should have a bit of room left over, you might be able to make it even thinner. Of course, the bearings and the nut on the bottom section have to be in line and matched up. That will take a bit of space too. attach the bearings by screw from the top

10mm screw goes with about 16mm nut (M10) so that will be reduced from usable space. I don't think i understood what should front bearing should do? Do you mean i should tap the front bearing so that screw doesnt come free?

 

[Richard Hed]

I'll check into rivets. It looks like what i need.



Thanks i appreciate the time you took for this, i'll be checking it throughly, today i hope, and make my design based on yours. I'll post it here.


10mm screw goes with about 16mm nut (M10) so that will be reduced from usable space. I don't think i understood what should front bearing should do? Do you mean i should tap the front bearing so that screw doesnt come free?

NOt tap it, make little spaces on the screw for a ring keeper on one end where the screw fits into the bearing. On sthe other side, leave a little material to stop the screw from moving on the other side.

You will see the one ring that is larger than the shaft, which will keep the screw from moving on that side of the bearing. On the other side is a ring cutout for a spring keeper. This way your shaft is held tight against the bearing which pushes the cross slide back and forth.

 

[malofix]

NOt tap it, make little spaces on the screw for a ring keeper on one end where the screw fits into the bearing. On sthe other side, leave a little material to stop the screw from moving on the other side.

You will see the one ring that is larger than the shaft, which will keep the screw from moving on that side of the bearing. On the other side is a ring cutout for a spring keeper. This way your shaft is held tight against the bearing which pushes the cross slide back and forth.

I think i got it. So we want screw to only move through the nut on the bottom part. It shouldnt move through the bearings. Hence ring on the screw.

On the bottom section there are two plates on the sides of the nut. How i'll attach them ? I think of adding another block on both sides of the nut to support side plates also to attach them.