;D Thanks very much indeed Bob. Don't worry, those "moments" catch all of us
Thank you Terry ;D. The morse taper is not required - a straight shank should do just fine, but use the biggest size you can for your collet set. I went the taper route as I felt it would be more rigid than running in my collet chuck with my B/H being on the large side and the maximum collet size for my mill being just 16mm. Not using the collet chuck saves a bit of headroom as well; about 70mm on my setup - which could turn out to be convenient to have at some future point. Of course, it depends on what you have; if one's mill has an R8 spindle, then one would go for an R8 arbor. There is an additional advantage to making the arbor a screw-in part like I did; its easy to make different arbors for the head - for example I can make an MT2 arbor for mine to use it in my lathe's headstock, or even the lathe tailstock with a center point to do taper turning. Good luck with your build Thm: - remember we like pictures ;D
Rob, thanks mate ;D. Drat - same factory ? - those Chinese get in everywhere... :big:
Thanks Kevin ;D. And thanks again
; my home-built tools just "feel" better to use than bought ones and that's as good a reason as any to build one's own tools. Besides, being in my corner of the world, it is actually cheaper to build my own. The cost of materials, additional cutters and consumables for this build came to about N$ 450 (US$ 56), and a "cheap 'n cheerful import" costs N$ 960 (US$ 120). The same went for my rotary table - cost as built N$ 700 (US$ 88) and to buy one locally N$ 4800 (US$ 600)
. I'll look up that Narex crowd and slobber a bit :big:
Kind regards, Arnold