Brian does Ridders flame eater

[Brian Rupnow]

I ordered up the newest Jan Ridder flame-eater design, and have modeled it all this morning. I have changed metric plate and shaft sizes to the nearest imperial (inch") size that is available and commonly used. This involved juggling a few parts around to compensate for minor differences in dimensions. This is the new design using a stainless cylinder and graphite piston and internal valve. These flame eater engines are notoriously dirty due to soot in the flame being sucked into the cylinder and resulting condensation. I am not in any great hurry to make this engine, but I know how that has worked out in the past. The amount of time I spend in my machine shop is in direct proportion to how much "real" work I have in any given week. ---Brian

 

[vederstein]

Oh come on Brian. You'll have this thing done in no time. When you start a project, you tackle it like a fly on stink.

...Ved.

 

[Journeyman]

Brian, I did one of these a few years ago. It works but was very tempremental to get going. If I can do it I'm sure yours will be up and running in no time. Good luck with the build. My effort ***HERE*** a rather poor video I'm afraid...
John

 

[rlukens]

Brian, I did one of these a few years ago. It works but was very tempremental to get going. If I can do it I'm sure yours will be up and running in no time. Good luck with the build. My effort ***HERE*** a rather poor video I'm afraid...
John

John, I see you used brass for the internal valve. What material for the piston?

Brian... same question.

Russ

 

[Journeyman]

Started off with cast iron for both valve and piston but with all the condensation it quickly rusted/gummed up. Changed both the valve and piston to brass which is an improvement. Jan reccomends graphite but I never tried this. The cylinder is stainless (no idea what grade I happened to have a bit the right size!) machined quite well though, I managed to make the flame hole too long, confused end and centre measurements, probably another reason for it being tempremental. This is the early version, the later one has a larger bore.
John

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I will be using graphite for piston and valve, 316 stainless for cylinder.---Brian

 

[Brian Rupnow]

One surprising thing about this engine is how few parts it actually has. I have never worked with machineable graphite, in fact right at the moment I don't even know where to get it, but like everything else, I will find out as I go along.

 

[rlukens]

One surprising thing about this engine is how few parts it actually has. I have never worked with machineable graphite, in fact right at the moment I don't even know where to get it, but like everything else, I will find out as I go along.

For what it's worth, I just ordered a 1.250 X 12 inch bar of JC3 graphite from this outfit: http://beckergraphite.com/stock-graphite-rods/
$16.00 plus shipping... You have to place order by phone.
Russ

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Thank you Russ--I may give them a call.--Brian

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I have enough brass left over from the power cylinder on the Stirling engine to make a flywheel for the flame eater engine. I picked up 6" of 1 1/2" 316 s.s. for $14 this morning. I also picked up some "real" work today, so now I get to do the great balancing act.

 

[el gringo]

I find graphite @ Amazon in 1 foot lengths...machines nicely with standard tooling...I'm using carbide index cutting .
Ray M

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Thanks guys--Remember, I am in Ontario, Canada and if I shop out of USA I pay killer shipping charges and dollar differential.

 

[el gringo]

I'm not sure Amazon worry's about residensy...The 'Prime' program gives free two day shipping ($100 year)... What the heck, give it a try




Superfine Molded Graphite Rod, 1"OD x 12"L, Each


Sold by: GraphiteStore
Return window closed on Oct 6, 2017

$20.00

 

[CFLBob]

Brian, your drawings are great!

Can I ask what software you drew then in?


Bob

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Brian, your drawings are great!

Can I ask what software you drew then in?


Bob

Solidworks

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I called my bearing supplier today to check and make sure that the metric bearings were available. They were, so I ordered them--there is about a 5 day delivery because of heading into the long weekend here. I also changed the exterior shape of the cylinder. The way Jan had it shown would require a form tool to make the V shaped cooling fins, so I changed them to conventional cooling fins that can be made with a parting off tool. I have my lump of flywheel brass up in the lathe, and will probably finish the flywheel tomorrow.

 

[Cogsy]

I have a couple of thoughts from when I built this engine if you want them Brian - no charge at all. Now bear in mind this was my first ever engine so I might have created my own problems, but the 3mm valve rod hole gave me fits. I didn't have a long enough bit to do the whole length of the hole at once so I had to come in from each end, resulting in a bit of misalignment and lots of hassle getting the rod to move smoothly. Perhaps now, even with access to longer bits, I'd think about drilling the hole a little larger and bushing each end to reduce dreaded friction.

The other thing I thought about was the travel of the valve. If you let it move down the bore any further than what it needs to achieve a seal, you're wasting precious vacuum, plus power to drive it back open. If I was making it again I'd make sure the valve moved the absolute minimum amount to achieve seal for maximum power.

I could write a whole story about machining the graphite but I'm thinking most of the issues there were lack of experience which won't be a problem for you. Good luck with the build, I'm sure you'll have less problem with it than I did.

 

[Journeyman]

... the 3mm valve rod hole gave me fits. I didn't have a long enough bit to do the whole length of the hole at once so I had to come in from each end, resulting in a bit of misalignment and lots of hassle getting the rod to move smoothly. Perhaps now, even with access to longer bits, I'd think about drilling the hole a little larger and bushing each end to reduce dreaded friction...

I had similar problem, on mine the hole had to go through all the fins and drifted off-line. I made the hole larger and did indeed put a small brass bush at either end, much less friction.

John

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Thank you gentlemen. I shall take this all into account.---Brian

 

[Brian Rupnow]

This mornings work yields a pretty little brass flywheel. The best thing about it was that the material was "left over" from the Stirling engine. I try and salvage every little short left over piece of material that I can.