2 cylinder flame licker

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Nice looking engine there Paul. CongratulationsThm:

Cheers,
Phil
 
Thanks fellers, I'm already on to fine tuning this engine. There are a few things that I can tweak that I think will help. There is certainly no friction once the engine warms up, the aluminium cylinder expands enough to provide just a nice drag free fit with the carbon pistons.

Paul.
 
G'day Paul, the little flame licker looks a treat mate, and for it to be a runner straight off the bat, just goes to show your your a true craftsman with an eye for detail.
Glad that carbon is holding up and worked out all right, look forward to seeing it running.

Eddie
 
Nice looking engine,

Does it get hot to the touch, because its a vacuum engine it might be getting to hot to keep it from making a vacuum. I would try putting a ice cube on the top of it to see if it runs longer.


Sent from my iPhone using Model Engines
 
Another great engine built by my Maestro.

Currently still enjoying putt-putting the H&M engine. H&M parts done and partly assembled. Won't putt putt yesterday when I came back fishing. This morning she putt putt after a second attempt. Will take my time to get H&M going.

How is the weather down there. Here its dry spell with the El-Nino but fishing will be good. Was good yesterday.I lost two biggies but took home a 3 pounder Grouper.

Take care.
 
Terryzilla, seeing that you intend to build this engine, I assume that you have the drawings. The area's that I found problems with are the legs, they should have a hole in the centre to suit a 4mm screw, not 3mm as shown, also if you want to have the legs protrude on the outside as shown on the assembly, the outside diameters should be 30 and 36mm, although I used 34 for the largest. The other problems were with the cylinder, the slot that is the air intake is shown 12mm to the centre of the slot in the side view, this should be 11.5mm. Next one, in the end view of the cylinder, the 2 holes that the valve pivot block screws to are shown as 4mm from the bottom, this should be 3.5mm.

Jyman, I think that you may be on to something there, the cylinder certainly gets hot and could prevent the air from cooling and creating a vacuum. I will have to try your ice idea, I'm using methylated spirits in the burner, maybe there is something else that I could use that burns cooler.

Gus, the weather has started to cool a bit now with the days generally mid to low 20's, great autumn weather. I'm off with a couple of mates next week for a day of fly fishing. We want to explore a river about 2.5hrs away from home, reports haven't been promising but we will give it a good go. It will be great to get away for the day anyway, we always have a good time even if the fish are scarce.

Paul.
 
gg89220, your engine runs so well, what are you using as fuel on yours. I also noticed in your video that your valves and pistons appear to be aluminium, and that your pistons protrude out the back of the cylinder at the end of their stroke. Were these modifications that you made to get it to run consistently?

Paul.
 
hello swifty

I used alcohol 95 ° for my flame swallowers.
I made the pistons longer to get a better etancheité.les valves and pistons are made of brass. an important point being the closure of the valve just before the piston 180 ° view photo.
after a few seconds it takes to open and wipe the condensation.
I put a lot of time to develop the
good luck

IMG_5924 [800x600].jpg


IMG_5925 [800x600].jpg


IMG_5840 [800x600].jpg
 
Terryzilla, seeing that you intend to build this engine, I assume that you have the drawings. The area's that I found problems with are the legs, they should have a hole in the centre to suit a 4mm screw, not 3mm as shown, also if you want to have the legs protrude on the outside as shown on the assembly, the outside diameters should be 30 and 36mm, although I used 34 for the largest. The other problems were with the cylinder, the slot that is the air intake is shown 12mm to the centre of the slot in the side view, this should be 11.5mm. Next one, in the end view of the cylinder, the 2 holes that the valve pivot block screws to are shown as 4mm from the bottom, this should be 3.5mm.

Jyman, I think that you may be on to something there, the cylinder certainly gets hot and could prevent the air from cooling and creating a vacuum. I will have to try your ice idea, I'm using methylated spirits in the burner, maybe there is something else that I could use that burns cooler.

Gus, the weather has started to cool a bit now with the days generally mid to low 20's, great autumn weather. I'm off with a couple of mates next week for a day of fly fishing. We want to explore a river about 2.5hrs away from home, reports haven't been promising but we will give it a good go. It will be great to get away for the day anyway, we always have a good time even if the fish are scarce.

Paul.

Hi Paul,

With the dry spell on, fishing been good.
My mates landed 3Kg Javelin which is good eating cooked in Sour Curry.The Javelin gave a great fight with spinner drag screaming away.:D However I lost mine. Main line broke.:wall::hDe:
This weekend will try out the FADs(aka aritificial reefs made of hollow bricks I put in) during the rising tide.

IMG_0360.jpg
 
gg89220, you have done a great job on those carbon impregnated pistons and valves. I will have to get some alcohol and try that in the burner. My engine runs very free, but just doesn't want to run properly with the flame. I even tried putting some ice blocks on top of the cylinder to help with the cooling of the air to create a vacuum, it only helped marginally. Maybe it will turn out to be a static display piece on the shelf.

Paul.
 
What a frustrating engine:( I have been fiddling around with the engine making minor mods to it, I even managed to buy some isopropyl alcohol to use in the burner, the only problem there was that the only source that I could find was in a 125ml spray bottle, the price equated out to $60 per litre, as there was no improvement, I will stick to methylated spirits.

The engine definitely wants to run when the flame is there, but only for a dozen revolutions before I have to spin the flywheel again by hand. I think that I will just put it on the shelf for now and bring it out occasionally to see what I can do to get it to run. I need to get on to a new project that's more constructive.

Paul.
 
bonjour
apres quelques tours il faut demonter et essuyer la condensation .

bon courage
 
"after a few runs, you must stop and wipe the condensation

Thanks for that tip, I have been getting condensation, but I wish it would run a bit more.

Paul.
 
wipe the condensation back and restarted the engine warm, condensation does not return, it runs without stopping
 
What a frustrating engine:( I have been fiddling around with the engine making minor mods to it, I even managed to buy some isopropyl alcohol to use in the burner, the only problem there was that the only source that I could find was in a 125ml spray bottle, the price equated out to $60 per litre, as there was no improvement, I will stick to methylated spirits.

The engine definitely wants to run when the flame is there, but only for a dozen revolutions before I have to spin the flywheel again by hand. I think that I will just put it on the shelf for now and bring it out occasionally to see what I can do to get it to run. I need to get on to a new project that's more constructive.

Paul.

That will be a good idea. Even the Webster and Rupnow would not budge on day one but on day two there were some puffs and on the day three, she ran
OK w/o any carb adjustment. However I did give up with the ''Firefly'' which sits on the shelf,Computer Desk reminding me.

Now fiddling with the Gov.weights and spring. Hopefully will get the H&M effect going. Advice seeked. Should I tune the carb very lean or richer so as to get easy engine starting/h&m restarting.
 
gg8922, thanks for the tips, it does run a bit better once it is warm, and I will definitely wipe off the condensation.

Hi Gus, I haven't quite given up on the flame licker yet, still have a bit more tinkering to do. As far as your Rupnow engine goes, I run mine with the carburettor a bit on the rich side, it seems to run better that way. As I lean the carburettor off a bit, the engine speeds up, but is a bit harder to start. Just bear in mind that I only open the needle valve about 1/4 of a turn.

Paul.
 

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