BAZMAK a second Lathe

[bazmak]

Norm you could if you wish make a backplate to fit the sieg with a Myford nose
Don't think it would be worth the effort.If going with my train of thought
then you can use the small lathe to make small items indoors in bad weather
One big advantage with the ER32 collet set is you can hold any size from 2mm to 20mm.I use it for holding threads without damage,and I have in mind
making and fitting a knurled alum ring,so I can close the collet by hand
I sometimes close the nut handtight for delicate items and with light cuts don't get slip.The beauty of this lathe is that it doesn't need bolting down and
you can pick it up and move it about

 

[Niels Abildgaard]

Hi Niels,thank you for your offer I would really like to test
and review your latest revised tool,i know you have invested
a lot of time and effort.Photo shows I think what you are looking for
and should be constant for all sieg Sc2/3 lathes.The tool height is 18.5mm
don't understand why you would want another decimal place ?
One thought I have is why use 2mm sq carbide its so small and fiddly
surely 3mm would be a lot better.Still small enough to do really fine work
Regards Barry

Hello Baz
Is it 25 mm to edge or center of M10 hole?
I have given away all round and 3mm square carbide and holders
The real virtue of system is easy resharpening and 4 square mm is definately easier than 9

http://i.imgur.com/K7UxbJy.jpg

 

[bazmak]

Hi Niels,its 25mm to cline of tapped hole.Can I ask why discontinue the 3mm sq
carbide.Did it not work as well

 

[goldstar31]

Hi Norm,will take some photos and post some details/advise.Let me know
the sellers name of the chinese version you find available,they are all the
same but different (gobbledigook).Also what price and availability of extras
Then you can decide what to buy and what to make.Basically all the 7" chinese lathes are seig what minor differences and all extras fit all lathes

It 's secondhand and being sold on behalf of a friend!

From what I can glean ,it is 'gey auld' by Chinese lathe standards.


Really, it is all a whim as I'm already nudging 87, have COPD, profoundly deaf and fighting - like most- senile dementure.

On a lighter note, I'm not in the Average Debt category of £13,000 which excludes mortgages:hDe:


So fingers crossed- or look East for the next miracle

Cheers

N

 

[bazmak]

If you can afford it then do it.Im spending more on tooling than
I have ever done.No one to pass it on to.Some one somewhere
will get some bargains.Stuff we dream of.Only ever happened
to me once.Bought a green super 7 for 1000 pounds virtually
unused with lots of genuine Myford accessories.Swivel vertical slide
and vice,collets and chucks etc. Like a fool I sold for 1200 pounds when
came back to Oz.If only I had boxed and shipped it. Or well
Buy it post some photos and we can open a thread

 

[Niels Abildgaard]

Hi Niels,its 25mm to cline of tapped hole.Can I ask why discontinue the 3mm sq
carbide.Did it not work as well

3mm square works very well but takes longer to resharpen.
If You run 1.9mm wide brown or blue swarf most amateur lathes are on limit.
2mm square is more than sufficient on my Boxford.

If Tantool holder heigth is 20mm or less(Myfords are 16.7) it becomes difficult, unsecure to have more than 2mm tool and M6 screw due to clearences.

 

[Blogwitch]

Baz,
I think you have made a wise choice with the SC 4 jaw chuck.

I have been using them for many years now, and even though they are of far eastern manufacture, I have found them to be far superior with regards to runout than standard 3 jaws of the same size, I have 3, and all run with less than 0.001" runout. Plus I also find them a little more versatile than a 3 jaw as they can hold both round and square stock which are the usual shapes we need to hold, but if I need to hold some hex, I have to revert to a 3 jaw.

Almost all far eastern lathes suffer from lack of taper locking in the tailstock quill, and can catch you out sometimes when the drill sticks in the hole it is drilling and start to spin the chuck. I designed a system of preventing that, but requires a tang to be fitted, but if you don't want to use a tang, I am sure that you could machine a flat on the small end of your chuck and centre tapers.

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=24120


John

 

[goldstar31]

If you can afford it then do it.Im spending more on tooling than
I have ever done.No one to pass it on to.Some one somewhere
will get some bargains.Stuff we dream of.Only ever happened
to me once.Bought a green super 7 for 1000 pounds virtually
unused with lots of genuine Myford accessories.Swivel vertical slide
and vice,collets and chucks etc. Like a fool I sold for 1200 pounds when
came back to Oz.If only I had boxed and shipped it. Or well
Buy it post some photos and we can open a thread

Ah, if only!:hDe:.

 

[bazmak]

Thanks John, I very rarely hold hex and often hold square.So I decided
I wanted a 5" chuck so why not SC 4jaw. Came in handy for the Turners cubes
Not cheap, about $260 but well worth it.I have damaged my 4" 4 jaw independent,so may also go for the 5".Works well with my 8" lathe
With the sieg system,the bolt on chuck is locked anyway,only need a backplt to increase from 4 to 5".I had a 5" with my super 7 centre height if remember
just under 7"

 

[goldstar31]

I agree with John about the 4 jaw SC chuck. Mine has a Myford body as have all the other chucks, face and catchplates but I obviously have 3 sets of collets and things which evoke some rather unnecessary and unwelcome criticism having come- like me- from a distant generation.

What bugs me is the blatant fact that Metric stuff is as cheap as chips whilst getting Imperial stuff is a bit like finding rocking horse manure. Tossing half a ton of coins ( £500) into the circus ring seems logical- and almost negligible.

Heigh Ho

Norm

 

[Niels Abildgaard]

Hello Baz

Need Your postal adress.Tool angles look and are not correct but it works OK.Do not Gorilla the screw.
Brown swarf is to slow

 

[DJP]

'Neigh Ho?' in Cantonese is a greeting like 'How are you going?'.

It's nice to see this level of friendliness in the forum.

You can simply reply 'Ho' which means I go OK.

 

[bazmak]

The lathe sits on 4 rubber feet on the same centres as the lathe bolt downholes
Bit disconcerting when ntightening things up of checking gibs for play
and the lathe wobbles about.Also I needed to raise nom 40mm so made
and fitted alum riser plts with a bigger footprint to the existing holes and under the tray, then refitted the feet at larger centres.Perfect height and much reduced wobble.I also chamfered a length of alum flat and carefully filed the bottom corner until the toolholders just click on .Screwed it to the wall and
room for further family.
To get the cross slide off you have to remove the back cover which is held with 4 no cap screws,so fitted long grub screws to the 2 no end holes as studs
and fitted 2 of my brass finger nuts Easy Peasy.Also fitted 2 additional cap screws to the cross slide gib which can act as further adjustment or cross slide lock. Simples. Stripped down the apron,debured refitted the dovetail etc
and made a 1.5mm thk alum cover to the traverse gears to keep grease in and swarfe out.Waiting for a new cast iron handwheel and some thrust bearings to finalise the apron .Feeling much better already.The lathe not me

 

[Niels Abildgaard]

Many years ago a canadian improved his Myford.It carries a lesson.
ery cheap and effective

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/showthread.php?t=15300&page=7

 

[Blogwitch]

Hi Baz,

I notice your tool holder on the wall behind your lathe.
I used to have mine hung similar to that, but very soon started to run out of storage space for them.

Have a look at this post, it shows a very easy way to gather them together in a more compressed state.

You would need to make for your size of holder, but well worth it in the long run.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,873.0.html


John

 

[bazmak]

Thanks for posting John,if my family goes above a dozen I will give it try
Well I played about with gibbs again,made a couple of mods with some
machining,the lathe is starting to feel really good.Will keep improving as
I find more niggles.Next job is the improve the handwheels when new ones arrive from China.Meanwhile I made an accurate tool height gauge.Fed up
with measuring with a rule all the time.Works well set all my tool to centre
height and sharpened a few.Also didn't **** the 2 long cap screws holding the plastic cover on the end of the headstock.Also remember from the first lathe
chips traveling thru the spindle and dropping on the changegears so solved
both problems and got to make a couple more brass thumb

 

[goldstar31]

I think that the use of a magnet on your tool height gauge is a useful thing. Unfortunately, my venture towards a Chinese/Far Eastern lathe has failed to materialise.

Having to revert to Plan B, there seems no reason not to add DRO's to the old Myford ML10- and press the relevant button to go from Imperial into Metric and Vicky verkie.

So I'm booked for a train ride to the Doncaster Show and what I had set aside for a birthday present for myself can be added to the little Myford instead.

My kids think that it's a great idea, too

Norm

 

[Blogwitch]

Hi Baz,

A couple of good ideas there, and I see you are using your knurler to the full, except that I personally hate magnets around my machinery except for picking up swarf, which they do with ease and are hard to eradicate completely.

I was given a brand new very expensive American optical centre dot finder, unfortunately the main block was a large magnet to allow it to stick to steel piece parts.
After the first use on steel sheet it was unusable afterwards because it attracted every tiny bit of swarf and corrosion within about 6" to it, including up the hole that the precision fitted sighting scope was to slide into, making it impossible to fit into the base without scratching onto tiny particles of steel that I just couldn't see to get them out. I managed to give it away to a chap that knew no better.

John

 

[goldstar31]

Magnetising? Well, I went too an auction of clock and watch stuff. Came back home with a £4 professional demagnetiser thing.

Had the old Seiko Seamaster on it, son borrowed it for his Rolex( hum), did my late wife's carriage clock and apart from the workshop use, it is costing 'pennies' to do things. In fact, I'm into profit because son bought me a proper little wallet of watchmaking repair tools!

Now is time to get the back of the 'Rolex' off and see what is bugging it. After all it was all of £10 in the Ladies Market on one of my Hog Kong jaunts- Might be a fake

Not all playing with ancient machinery.

Norm

 

[bazmak]

Don't like magnets myself but you cant entirely get away from them
Dial indicators spring to mind.My 8" s/s digital vernier has become
magnetised and its a pain.I bought a cheap carbon fibre one for that
problem and when it arrived it only read to 1 dec. place on mm and
2 places on imperial that's to 2thou on metric and to 5 thou on imperial
Initially I was very disappointed,then realised I was using it all the time instead of a 6"rule.For all non tight tolerance work its ideal and non
magnetic.Will get a couple more at $5 a pop.Norm I have had thoughts floating around for a poss. project.Have you any knowledge of trying to
relace the tailstock with a 6 way turret assy ?? Way back I posted a thread
on converting a woodturning lathe to a metal lathe.Fabbed up thr carriage etc
It was fairly successful and I did use it before returning it to its originl
state.A 6 way turret as a taolstock carriage with gear drive thru the
existing rack etc,etc might not be too far fetched.Any input