BAZMAK a second Lathe

[bazmak]

Hi Norm, what i do now as std is to mill a slot/flat to engage with the screws
for location/retension and so that the screws push square against a flat face
However from a previose mod i found that making the gib full size with
only a few thou adjustment it is not necessary.I just spotted thro the tapped holes a couple of mm deep intp the brass gib,and chamfered the screw points
at 30o to match a std drill.This locates and retains the gib strip.I have found
that the secret lies with keeping the gibb as large as poss so no rocking etc
After all the gibb only needs to move/adjust a few thou

 

[goldstar31]

Of course, your suggestion is an excellent one.

Time for a few, not too silly remarks now.
In less effluent days, my lathe was worn on the first shear in the usual place i.e. 6" from the front. Where lots of faceplate and chuck work takes place. I used on of these plastic metal based fillers to restore/build up the wear. The stuff, being soft-ish was easily worked. The other bit was the inner narrow guide thing beloved of early Myford7's. Like many of us, I utilised the unworn Number4 shear.

Just a few more tips to your excellent suggestions!

Norm

 

[JCSteam]

Norm that took me a couple of attempts at reading but are you saying a new on could be glued on to the existing one and can someone show me the setup for machining the gibs please. A straight piece of brass won't work as it's the wrong shape. I can carry on regardless at the no on my lathe but it's good for future reference.

 

[goldstar31]

I raised two issues.

The first was the use of a plastic filler to take up wear

The second was to fill the air gap which Baz corrected with a larger brass gib.
My suggestion was to glue either a strip or strips of metal to the back of the present gib to close the gap.
Whatever it is, gibs are miserable things and can be filed or milled or ground
The hard job is holding the damned things whilst it all goes on

Does this help?

Norm

 

[bazmak]

Hi Norm,i used 6.3mm brass and machined in the angle vice.Tricky but
duable as you say difficult to hold but i managed.On a previous thread
i posted how to make new gibbs without a mill but using the linisher
At a pinch it can be done the old fashion way with a file. I thought of shimming out the existing gibb as per your thoughts but it was just as easy to make
a new one. With a mill and out of brass which i feel gives a better slide
softer matl but these bench lathes dont take much wear.At the end of the day
after many trial and errors simply making the gibb a good fit works the best
The example photo of the existing gibb highlighted the point.The large gap just
allowed the gibb to twist so it only seated on a corner hence you could not
get consistant adjustment

 

[JCSteam]

Thank you Baz and Norman, I'll get my thinking cap on to think of a way to clamp a brass strip without an angle vice

 

[goldstar31]

I am building a shed- or more honestly, helping.
In the set up, I'm using a cheap saw bench which will tilt. This will make a simple jig to hold a brass sheet for filing at the right angle. Possibly stick it down with hot glue and melt it out and do the other edge.

I use hot glue quite a lot and traditionally soft solder steel sheets for machining . Not often 'in the book' but it works
Cheers

N

 

[JCSteam]

Would a tile cutter work on the same principle? There's a diamond cutting blade in there at the moment. A piece of square steel clamped down. Parralel to the blade. And a piece of brass glued to another square bar stock. Set up with blade vertical. Then lean the blade over to the correct angle and cut both brass and steel. Turn around and do same. Then use a sharpening block to smooth surface. Followed by polishing paste on some fine wet dry paper.

 

[goldstar31]

Would a tile cutter work on the same principle? There's a diamond cutting blade in there at the moment. A piece of square steel clamped down. Parralel to the blade. And a piece of brass glued to another square bar stock. Set up with blade vertical. Then lean the blade over to the correct angle and cut both brass and steel. Turn around and do same. Then use a sharpening block to smooth surface. Followed by polishing paste on some fine wet dry paper.

I haven't quite got your idea but if the table tilts the 30/60 or 45 degree. you can possibly cut a kerf using a guide.

Again, I suspect( but not sure) a diamond wheel on a tile cutter might make rather useful tool and cutter grinder for next to nothing purchase.

Me, I 'd play with something like that if it tilts-----even to using a disc with emery paper stuck on it.

Not quite according to the book, but I fail to see what is wrong

OK

Norm

 

[JCSteam]

Hi Norm, the bar stock can act as a slider one clamped to the bed of the cutter, the other for sliding against it. The brass gib piece can be glued to the top of the slider bar and passed through easily, (theory sounds good anyhow) On the next cut reverse the brass which can now be held against the first cut on the slider, below where the brass was glued. So long as the blade is not adjusted a parralel gib slide is now made and just requires honing in. If you still not with me, im not good at explaining myself, maybe a diagram may help explain better.

You are right though, sharpening drill bits would be easier if nothing else.

 

[goldstar31]

Hi Norm, the bar stock can act as a slider one clamped to the bed of the cutter, the other for sliding against it. The brass gib piece can be glued to the top of the slider bar and passed through easily, (theory sounds good anyhow) On the next cut reverse the brass which can now be held against the first cut on the slider, below where the brass was glued. So long as the blade is not adjusted a parralel gib slide is now made and just requires honing in. If you still not with me, im not good at explaining myself, maybe a diagram may help explain better.

You are right though, sharpening drill bits would be easier if nothing else.

If the glue doesn't hold, then soft solder and when finished sweat it off.

None of this lead free solder- I add!

Cheers

N

 

[bazmak]

I have resurrected a couple of photos where i made a new brass gib without a mill using a cheap belt/disc linisher.Very cheap from Aldi etc and can be
very useful to cut doewn on filing etc.Did many mods and its now worth its weight in gold.An essential piece of kit to a newbie.If anyone is interested
i can ressurect the thread

 

[bazmak]

Well i polished up the gibs and set the compound.The cross slide had a well fitting gib and i had already fitted additional screws so it was just a case of
resetting etc.The carriage was the big problem so had to take a few thou off
the front gib plate and reset.Everything is now A OK .I wonder how long it will last.One thing did surface.The front carriage gib plate can only be adjusted
when the whole assy is diassembled however on the first photo i have highlighted with a sharpie that on this model the 2 end studs could be drilled
thru the carriage with fixings on the top,making it much easier to set and
perhaps be used as a carriage lock.If i lose the settings and have to strip down
again i might try it.Also made a quick change alum chip tray.My dormant
sheetmetal work skills came to the fore.Brought back memories of over
50 years ago at trade school when the exams were to develope and make
things like water jugs and milk churns from tin plate. Wish i could go back

 

[JCSteam]

I like the chip tray idea

Also if you could find the thread on the sander that would be helpful to me I haven't fully got to grips with the site just yet

 

[goldstar31]

The 'English' version of the belt sander becomes available from time to time at either Lidl or Aldi and probably cheaper than generally available from other suppliers.

In all.it is not too bad although a bit flimsy on the rests. I usually buy the various grades of grit belts and put them into stock. I have one and simply have learned to live with its foibles.

With a bit of 'judicious jiggling', I'm assured that grinding hss tooling is possible.

I'm sort of happy to use one often because I forget where I put my files! The shame of it all!!!!

Norm

 

[bazmak]

The Clark branded version is sold by machinery mart in the UK
I bought one here in OZ for $70 for woodworking,for quickly and
accurately squaring end grain on timber for dowelling joints
The sander is very cheaply made in some areas like the mini lathe
but has the potential to mod to a high standard as the 7x lathe
The driven roller is on plastic bushes and quickly wear out,my first mod
was to make brass bushes,but lubrication is difficult so fitted cheap skate bearings.Also made a dedicated stand and increased the 6" disc size to 9"
to accept velcro fitting discs. The things i can do with it in metal and wood
you would not believe.Worth its weight in gold.If it blew up tomorrow i
would go out and buy another even at twice the price.Sharpening tooling etc
And heavy filing is a thing of the past.I will resurect the thread and post more
photos

 

[bazmak]

Have reposted this for builder 01 and anyone else who may find it interesting

 

[bazmak]

For Jc steam as per PM request

 

[JCSteam]

Thank you Baz, a link to the thread would have sufficed, but thank you, time to read up on these.