BAZMAK a second Lathe

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With the money I saved on the lathe I bought a qctp.The cheap small one made from aluminium.Now like me half an engineer would laugh at the thought
of an alum toolpost.Its a no no. However I knew tis one would fit directly to the 7x14 lathe and I planned to setup with a collet chuck and just use the lathe
for light duty and small items.In mind I thought that I could make a cloned larger version in steel with all dims to be increased etc.Worth $50
It duly arrived nicely boxed with 4 toolholders and a boring bar.Looks and feel like a toy with lots of play in the dovetails,but I am confident it will be fine
for what I have in mind.I made a basic turning tool and new tool holder in steel
.Ready to make chips but I don't want to get the lathe dirty Q 01.JPG

Q 02.jpg

qctp 01.JPG

qctp 02.jpg

qctp 03.jpg

qctp 04.jpg
 
Ready to make chips even though I don't want to get the lathe dirty
First job is a half dozen brass thumbscrews to suit the QCTP
and for this I made another tool holder to accept my mark3 cut knurling tool
Now I have a line up of tools for this job shown in sequence of ops
Watch this space and we will see how it all goes
 
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Hello Bazmak

What is distance between compound slide upper surface and centerline?
Am asking because my next and lower mass lathe migth as well be a 7*14.
What is distance from central clamping down stud to one of the corners?

Kind regards

Niels
 
Good morning Neils ,you will be looking to fit a diamond tool to the lathe ??
As am I shortly.Will let you know by a post if its ok
The compound is 50mm wide and the centre stud 25mm from the front
Therefore its 45o the corner 25x1.414= 35.3mm.You are probably looking
at the tool downhang clearing.If so I will check it out when I next make a
toolholder for the QCTP and a diamond tool. Regards barry
Ps sorry missed the most important dim top of compound to centreline is 18.5mm
 
Well,i have just christened the lathe.Made a dozen brass thumb screws
6 no at m5 and 6 no at m4.By the time I got to the last few it was production
line quality.The knurl head worked well.From my practice runs in the other thread the worst finish was on brass.So it seemed on the first couple of thumbscrews,however I finally figured it out.Got the speed right and hand fed
in AND then handfed out.The outfeed seems to take a fine clean up cut
The lathe performed well with a few niggles surfacing as is want when
finally using.All will be dealt with later.What I was pleased with is I power
fed in the tap and reversed out which I cannot do on the other lathe
Although the QCTP looks and feels like a toy it works well but I need to try and
improve the dovetail fit to take up slack.Tools worked well although the parting and chamfering tools need a sharpen.Very pleased so far
HS 03.JPG

wbrkt 03.jpg

tumbler.jpg
 
Good morning Neils ,you will be looking to fit a diamond tool to the lathe ??
As am I shortly.Will let you know by a post if its ok
The compound is 50mm wide and the centre stud 25mm from the front
Therefore its 45o the corner 25x1.414= 35.3mm.You are probably looking
at the tool downhang clearing.If so I will check it out when I next make a
toolholder for the QCTP and a diamond tool. Regards barry
Ps sorry missed the most important dim top of compound to centreline is 18.5mm

Hello Baz

No Eccentric Diamond in my house but Homemade TanTool ,stray dogs and ladies are wellcome.
I have some 25 mm square mild steel waiting for a modified 2mm square carbide stick.
Made a couple for Myfords that are only 16.7mm high and that is marginal.
18.5 is very nice.
 
Bazmak,

I really like this thread about modifying a mini-lathe from just-purchased. I have a list of mods in my head for when I decide to attack mine for the next round of improvements and adjustments. Thanks for posting your adventures in machine modification and improvement.

If we can't afford much, we have to make the best of what we have.

I like the way the thumbscrews turned out: I need to make some myself "one of these days."

Thanks again,

--ShopShoe
 
Thanks shopshoe , I am really enjoying this lathe,the mods are so easy
the second time around,you know the best ones and the easiest way
Its also so simple when you have a second lathe and mill.The world is your oyster.As for the thumbscrews they were also on my to do list but I kept
putting them off because of the difficulty of knurling.Now its a breeze and
so simple.Lots of minor mods now I have used the lathe.Will keep posting
WILL SOMEONE PLEASE MAKE THE CUT KNURLER AND POST
 
Did a couple of mods to the mini QCTP.Made a new locking handle
and superglued a 4 thou steel shim to the body dovetail.This has
made a big improvement.The 4 thou shim perfect for the tightest
tool holder.Funny it looked a lot more play than 4 thou
I also made another tool holder.Getting quicker and more accurate
this one was a good fit to the shimmed body.Then proceeded to machine
it to become a diamond tool holder with the last bit of 2mm sq carbide
given to me Neils.Still work in progress but for my application it does not
do any more than the RCT tool I made.Apart from getting a nice square corner
Because of the way I made it and the limited tool height of 18.5mm I used
an M3 cap screw to set the tool height and the holder bottoms on the compound just in case your wondering why no brass thumb screw
Still playing.When I first used the lathe I made a list of niggles but lost it
cant remember all the minor mods but they will come back.Waiting for a
couple of cast iron handwheels from China then I can improve the apron[
and carriage travel
 
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Hi Baz!

Steering back to your original ideas, where have you got to in your intention to use your second lathe as a collet one?

Regards

Norman

Hint-- I normally buy the family 'pressies' on MY birthday. Time perhaps for 'little me' as well
 
Hi Norm. only the ER32 collet chuck as seen in the photos this will give accuracy for the small items,can still use the 3 jaw but this will reduce
changing chucks etc.What did you have in mind ? If you have any ideas
please let me know.I may also make a collet chuck to fit the ER 16 collet
set I bought for the eccentric tool grinder
 
Hi Barry
Ignoring all the much repeated hype about tool holders, I'm able to have a small lathe in side my home. A widower now!
However, I don't want to create a lot of mess inside and using collets to do lots of small bits- in metric measurement seems possible.
I have 3 sets of collets which fit the Imperial Myfords and a set of ER16's which fit the little Unimat clone but I have literally no clues about fitting collets on one of these Chinese lathes.

As far as things have progressed, there should be a 'cheap' secondhand lathe but it will come with the wrong 3 jaw chuck which is what bloody useless salespeople foist onto the unsuspecting newcomers.

In other words( ?), I confess to picking your brain about something that hasn't been fully explained in other people's postings.

My regards

Norman
 
Hi Norm,if you have any questions please send a PM.If you look thru my past threads I bought an er32 collet set and R8 holder for my mini mill.I then made a collet chuck to mount to my first mini lathe.No more difficult than making
a backplate.Turned the mating recess,drill holes,bolt to spindle then turn
anything you want true to the lathe.When I sold the first 7x14 I kept the chuck
to mount on the RT.Then Sc4 lathe had a 72mm spigot ,not 55mm so I bought
a er32 collet chuck as shown in the photos,which fits this lathe.Dont know if
its worth making one to fit the er16 collets.What lathe do you have, the ML10?
I think the more compact collet chuck on this lathe will be of better use than
a 3 jaw chuck,i have less centre distance than before.I am thinking of fitting an
alum. knurled grip ring to one of the collet knuts,quicker release by hand
rather than using the C spanner.Anything your interested in let me know
and I can post photos etc Regards barry
 
Hello Baz

I guess You were not the easiest kid in school.
Let me make a Niels Abildgaard TanTool holder that fits Your new,delicious lathe and You push it as hard as possible and compare with all other toolsystems?
If accepting challenge, let me now how long the virgin 2mm toolbit can be,confirm the 18.5mm(one decimal more eventually?) and the 50 times 50mm of the compound slide combat zone.
Photo show one made for a 918 lathe and 22.5 and not 18.5 mm high.

henrys.jpg


WP_20160828_011.jpg
 
Thanks Barry.
The situation is now clearer regarding the proposed metric Sieg.
As it stands, I have both a Myford Super7 with gear box and a smaller ML10( without) and a little Unimat clone and a watchmaker's lathe. So I have LOT of 'goodies' but really didn't know how to possibly utilise what I've got and what I have to buy.

So thanks again!

Norm
 
Thank you Niels I would like to accept your offer and will post some photos
and more accurate information.
Hi Norm,will take some photos and post some details/advise.Let me know
the sellers name of the chinese version you find available,they are all the
same but different (gobbledigook).Also what price and availability of extras
Then you can decide what to buy and what to make.Basically all the 7" chinese lathes are seig what minor differences and all extras fit all lathes
 
Hi Niels,thank you for your offer I would really like to test
and review your latest revised tool,i know you have invested
a lot of time and effort.Photo shows I think what you are looking for
and should be constant for all sieg Sc2/3 lathes.The tool height is 18.5mm
don't understand why you would want another decimal place ?
One thought I have is why use 2mm sq carbide its so small and fiddly
surely 3mm would be a lot better.Still small enough to do really fine work
Regards Barry
 
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A few photos to help you try and make tooling more interchangeable
All 80mm chucks have a 55mm recess and drilled for M6 fixings
All 100mm chucks have a 72mm recess with M8 fixings
I thought all 7x lathes had 80mm chucks and 55mm spindle
however when I received this lathe it had a 100mm chuck and 72mm spigot
All to my advantage as my 8x20 sieg has the same and therefore interchangeable.I also bought a 125mm 4 jaw S/C chuck which has a 95mm
spigot.Therefore any fittings can fit or be fitted with a simple backplate
All available to buy or easy to make.Any questions ? Let me know what you
have in mind to buy,new or SH.The 7x14 is the smallest I would buy,i think
the centres on the 7x12 would be too restrictive.If you look at my tailstock chuck post you will see what I mean. Regards barry
 
The first time I used the lathe to make the brass thumbscrews I did not have any major issues.However I used the 16mm keyless chuck from the bigger lathe,and its far too big so I will order a 10mm one ,more compact.With already
restricted of centres at 350mm you need all the room you can get.
Also when the MT2 seated the quill was out 25mm of max 40mm travel
I have removed 13mm from the quill feed screw and I will remove the tang when mu new chuck arrives.My existing live centre has no tang and fits ok
Also made a locking handle extension
 

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