Ball Hopper Monitor - Casting Project

[Alyn Foundry]

Some progress on the Petter Apple top. Core box with register for correct alignment with the spark plug aperture. The core will sit vertically in the Drag ( bottom box )

 

[GreenTwin]

Some progress on the Petter Apple top. Core box with register for correct alignment with the spark plug aperture. The core will sit vertically in the Drag ( bottom box )

That is some really clean looking pattern work, especially that LETTERING !
You are definitely on a roll with that engine.
Impressive !
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[Jasonb]

I can take the credit for the lettering CAD . For an idea of size the letters are 5mm high x 1mm extrusion. Printed nicely on the P1S. Doing the letters separately and setting them into a groove in the main casting means the letters can be done with a fine layer height and won't get damaged when sanding the main pattern

The black parts are carbon reinforced filament. Interesting to see if it's strength allows a thinner wall and less percentage of fill. If it does that will offset the highter cost of the carbon over PLA with the bonus of shorter print times as there is less material being printed.

 

[Alyn Foundry]

Here’s a selection of photos…. In fact the printer wasn’t able to do one job because of the nozzle limitations.

 

[Alyn Foundry]

The Carbon fibre PLA is exceedingly tough but only a trip to the foundry will prove one way or the other.

 

[GreenTwin]

Are you planning on filling around the lettering a bit, or are you going to try and pull it as-is ?
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[Fidlstyks]

This is a 6HP (plated 5 1/2HP) Manatoba built engine not a 7HP

I found that engine, it was in KansasCity, now in Arkansas.
He said they are the same enough that he bought a Monitor engine and took the parts off of it, to finish the Manitoba. Monitor is now missing valve chest , carb, muffler and rod
He said the main difference is that the Manitoba has no part numbers. And has square gas tank

 

[petertha]

I envision the thinned fastpatch as having the consistency of slightly thick latex paint.

Not sure what airbrush you ordered but that sounds problematically thick from my experience. Guess you will find out soon enough. I would have gone for a mini HVLP 'touch up' gun. Even a cheapo knock off. Those have viscosity limits too, but that style of gun typically has a wider range needle/cap orifice combinations to try. You can typically dial that size of gun down to say 1.5" spray fan but its also a function of viscosity. Good luck. Cant wait to see some of these 3DP parts turn into metal, ultimately.

 

[GreenTwin]

I have high hopes that the sprayed on Fastpatch is going to work.
The buffing with the slow speed sanding sponge takes off a lot of the high spots, and so greatly reduces how thick the filler will need to be.

My sprayer is still in-transit, but will perhaps arrive today.

I received some of my ventilation items yesterday, but don't have my inline fan yet.
I have to build an enclosure around my 3D printer, and ventilate it outside, since the PLA fumes are burning my eyes.
I can't smell the PLA fumes, but I can tell they are present since my eyes are watering.
I have some spare 1/2" square tubing that will work well for an enclosure frame.

Building the green twin engine build was brutal because I was trying to learn 3D modeling, 3D printing, was using a poor quality 3D printer, and my foundry work was learn-as-you-go.
At one point, I had given up onr figuring out how to consistently melt and cast gray iron, and a very talented friend of mine who worked at a medium voltage motor rewind company said "Don't give up; you will figure it out".
This fellow had a long history of figuring out some very complex problems with medium voltage motors, and was the best motor person I have ever met, not to mention just an incredibly nice person, so that inspired me to hang in there and figure out how to do gray iron.

This build is very focused, and based on 12 years of accumulated knowledge, so I am light years ahead of where I was on my last build, and that allows me to move much more quickly on this engine.
I have the confidence on this build of knowing exactly what to do and how to do it, without the discouraging failures and blunders I experienced in the past.

The Prusa XL so far has been a very consistent machine, with no bed lifting, so that solves a lot of 3D printing problems, and allows steady progress.

I have not built an IC engine before, so there is a learning curve to that, but there are some really heavyweights in IC engine building on this forum, and with the knowledge that our members have here, I don't think there is any way for me to fail.
The support from members here really is what allows me to attempt builds like this.
I am basically standing on the shoulders of the experienced builders here; that is what makes this possible.

The game plan as far as turning these PLA patterns into permanent aluminum patterns, and then gray iron castings is going to be a bit weather-dependent.
I think I am going to set up my furnace and burner out in the yard, and leave it in place.
I will have to cover it.
If I leave everything set up, then that will save a lot of time not having to drag everything out every time and do a set up/take down repeatedly.
I may use a remote combustion air blower mounted permanently in my shop, so that I just have a duct out in the driveway, not the entire blower.

For mold making, I think a one or two day intense session, where all the molds are made all at the same time, followed by a one day casting session, will get all of the permanent aluminum patterns completed.
It does not work well for me trying to jump on and off foundry work, because I lose track and lose momentum too.

If I can get the aluminum patterns made, then I would have a second multi-day molding and casting session, and cast all the parts in gray iron.

But again, the weather will have to cooperate for me to do this.

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[Jasonb]

Building the green twin engine build was brutal because I was trying to learn 3D modeling, 3D printing, was using a poor quality 3D printer, and my foundry work was learn-as-you-go.

This build is very focused, and based on 12 years of accumulated knowledge, so I am light years ahead of where I was on my last build, and that allows me to move much more quickly on this engine. I have the confidence on this build of knowing exactly what to do and how to do it, without the discouraging failures and blunders I experienced in the past.

The Prusa XL so far has been a very consistent machine, with no bed lifting, so that solves a lot of 3D printing problems, and allows steady progress.

I have not built an IC engine before, so there is a learning curve to that, but there are some really heavyweights in IC engine building on this forum, and with the knowledge that our members have here, I don't think there is any way for me to fail.

But you don't seem to know the various settings of the printer or ways to finish the prints . Moving so fast you are getting ahead of yourself and printing incomplete CAD designed parts etc

You are getting advice but tend to be ignoring quite a lot of it so there are likely to be failures along the way.

It is becoming a bit of a Brian thread. You may find that if you get to the building stage people will not feel like helping.

The contradictions don't help, one line you say you will set up outside to save REPEATED setting up. The next you are only talking of two casting sessions which is hardly a lot of repeats.

 

[GreenTwin]

But you don't seem to know the various settings of the printer or ways to finish the prints . Moving so fast you are getting ahead of yourself and printing incomplete CAD designed parts etc

You are getting advice but tend to be ignoring quite a lot of it so there are likely to be failures along the way.

It is becoming a bit of a Brian thread. You may find that if you get to the building stage people will not feel like helping.

The contradictions don't help, one line you say you will set up outside to save REPEATED setting up. The next you are only talking of two casting sessions which is hardly a lot of repeats.

So much hand-wringing in this post.

But you don't seem to know the various settings of the printer or ways to finish the prints . Moving so fast you are getting ahead of yourself and printing incomplete CAD designed parts etc.
The default finest layer setting is working well enough to make usable patterns.
I tried the variable layer, and that did not work, so I will stick with the default finest layer setting, and add supports where necessary.
I am not getting ahead of myself, I just wanted to watch the printer run while I was working on work projects that day; it was never intended as a final print.

You are getting advice but tend to be ignoring quite a lot of it so there are likely to be failures along the way.
I do it my way in the end, but I do appreciate all the advice.
I know where the parting lines are; I don't need wrong information on that.

It is becoming a bit of a Brian thread. You may find that if you get to the building stage people will not feel like helping.
Brian does his own thing, for his own reasons, and while that may not be how other engine builders do things, Brian does not do this hobby to please others; he only has to please himself.
To give Brian credit, he did inspire me to purchase and learn Solidworks, and that has been a big thing for me.
Many thanks to Brian for paving the way on that with all his 3D models that he posted.
As I was learning 3D modeling, others were saying things like "Its just a pretty picture, but will never be of any use for anything".
So who has changed their tune these days? Lets be honest.

The contradictions don't help, one line you say you will set up outside to save REPEATED setting up. The next you are only talking of two casting sessions which is hardly a lot of repeats.
It is two casting sessions, but with multiple melts/pours.
For the green twin, I did five back-to-back pours in aluminum in about two hours, and so that was very efficient.
Otherwise that means five setups/takedowns, and over two days, 10 or more.
The only contradictions are the things you don't seem to quite understand completely.
I do everything for a reason and a purpose; there is nothing random.
You may not understand the reason and purpose, but that is ok.

You may find that if you get to the building stage people will not feel like helping.
I appreciate any help from anyone, with the understanding that it is my build, my way.
There is no quid pro quo here.
If you want to offer suggestions, I appreciate any and all suggestions.
I reserve the right to reject all suggestions for any reason, rational or irrational.
If need be, I will drive to Barney's house, and we will sit down next to his engine and figure out whatever we need to figure out, to make this engine work.

I would suggest you stop the hand wringing over every minute detail of this build, and remember that this is a hobby for me, and not a life and death situation as you seem to suggest.

I have this build under control.
Mistakes will be made.
They will be minor mistakes that can easily be corrected.
Feel free to comment as much as you want; all is appreciated, but if your can't handle the anxiety over how I do it, then comment on someone else's thread and save yourself from stroking out over how I am doing this one.

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