Anyone know about shrink fitting tools?

[Wizard69]

Swifty - I'm going to experiment with some Loctite stud and bearing lock. That might hold up to the heat of drilling.

I've gone this route many times for light machine work and maintenance type work. It is probably not the ideal production solution but is a save your bacon solution. I've done this with Loctite for screw locking but you would probably be better off with bearing retainer. Also you can get high temp Loctite.

The problem with smaller drills is the limited glueing surface. In the end Silver soldering is probably your best solution if you expect to do more than a modest amount of drilling. A shrink fit is possible but I see it as more difficult to do in the smaller sizes.

Goldstar31 - I'd love to be able to slver solder the drillbit to the shank without warping it, or losing the hardness of the cutting edge, but I'm not very good with a torch. Maybe it is my silver solder and flux. Can you suggest something that works well for this application, and where I can buy it?

Find a local welding supply shop. Usually with a quick description of your task they can fix you up. Given that are you getting enough heat?


Sent from my iPad using Model Engines

 

[goldstar31]

I've said that I've had a long experience in being involved in Northumbrian Small Pipes.
My old mentor- Will A Cocks wrote a book- presumably before the war and this formed the basis of instructions. Subsequently, several makers and players have added their expertise. One - I presume is still alive is a Mr Mike Nelson of Cambridge, England and I recall that his web site is still up and very worthwhile because it contains a wealth of information on how to make D Bits. It's got a LOT of useful information for other bits and pieces useful here.
One of the references was to a renowned maker who changed his old Myford lathe to a more modern one. The old one went to a work colleague of mine, So I overhauled it!

Anyway, read Mr Nelson's words and- music.

Norman

 

[Engineeringtech]

Thanks Wizard. I've got some of that stud and bearing lock somewhere. Just got to find it.

Yeah, I'm very poor at anything to do with a torch. I will check with the welding supply houses.

 

[Engineeringtech]

...............a Mr Mike Nelson of Cambridge, England and I recall that his web site is still up and very worthwhile because it contains a wealth of information on how to make D Bits. .....

Norman

Thanks. I found his website. Lots of stuff on the pipes and some beautiful model aeroplane engines but I did not see anything on "D" bits.

 

[goldstar31]

Try Drilling the Chanter bore section and D Bits as a subsection.
As you say- Lots.

I've got a set of instructions on Uileann Pipes on file but we are into clarinets and saxophones and even a 7/8th 1911 Bluthner Grand Piano which restored. I'm sitting with one of these art work calendars from New York museum which has an ivory clarinet depicted from the 1800's.

I bought a metal one -ex New Orleans. Plenty of silver soldering there.

To get information, you must read every line- and remember ALL the details. Stick with it, don't accept ideas until you know that they work.

Back to one of my tool and cutter grinders which is not supposed to work for all the so called experts views on engineering- but does- beautifully.

Cheers

Norman

 

[MachineTom]

Appears my last reply got lost. A 1/4" spotting drill is used for drills up to 1/4, it only is used for a "spot" to start drilling, it is not used for through holes, just to make a good start location. MSC has up to 6" length in the 1/4 size. Then use the drill size for the proper hole.

 

[KLG]

I have frequently extended drill and cutters using ordinary straight mild steel shafting. A hole is drilled that hold the drill snugly and for a reasonable depth. A small flat is then ground on the side of the tool or cutter and then the drill is simply glued in using an epoxy resin such as devcon or ultratorr. This has worked for me on drills up to .25 inches.
Cheers, Kerry from Oz