anyone interested in a radial team buid

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It appears that the collet will close up slightly when the nut is tightend and allow the FW to move a bit
farther thus exposing more thread. Still not 2.77mm but closer. This is with a 1mm spacer. It may be
necessary to tweak each individual assembly.
Checking the fit of the wrist pins to the connecting rod revealed some undersized bushings. The .158
reamer didn't always make a .158 hole. I'll use a #21 reamer which is .159, a .0015 clearance should
work. Barring any changes to the FW-collet assembly, the parts will be shipped tomorrow.

Mike
 
maverick said:
It appears that the collet will close up slightly when the nut is tightend and allow the FW to move a bit
farther thus exposing more thread. Still not 2.77mm but closer. This is with a 1mm spacer. It may be
necessary to tweak each individual assembly.
Checking the fit of the wrist pins to the connecting rod revealed some undersized bushings. The .158
reamer didn't always make a .158 hole. I'll use a #21 reamer which is .159, a .0015 clearance should
work. Barring any changes to the FW-collet assembly, the parts will be shipped tomorrow.

Mike


Mike,

I received my parts from Chris today ... my spacer is about .5mm.
They should be about 1.5mm or so. Yes we trim them down depending on the rest of the assembly.


About the wrist pin ... at first mine would not go into the reamed piston or the bearing. I gently dressed up the entrance ... then with a little
pressure the wrist pin slid into the piston and then the bearing. My wrist pins do not move on the piston but allows the piston to swivel on the rods without increasing the bearing hole size.


Great that the parts will be shipped tomorrow ... looking forward to getting them. :) :)


Pat H.
 
Received bearing housing, thanks Chris.

Made some progress on the crankcases. Finished the main bore and counter bore and return crank bore, then got my program sorted out to do all the cylinder side features (cylinder hole, steam ports, mounting holes) - now just to load the parts and press go a few times...more progress expected tomorrow ;D

Mike
 
Chris,

Received your parts today ... thanks. :bow:
Looks like we are closing in on putting it all together. ;)

Thanks again! :)


Pat
 

Hello team,
My parts are in the mail. I got a cramp from filling out all the customs forms.

A happy and prosperous new year to all.
Mike
 
Happy new year all,

I made some good progress on my parts over the last couple of days. Attached is a photo of where it stands now.

Just have to drill the breather hole, tap it, and tap all the other 240 or so M3 holes....auto reversing tapping head should help with those..

I cheated just a little on the rear steam passages - seeing as the timing is controlled by the rotary valve and the port flange I used a 1/8" ball end mill to make the ports (0.125") versus the 0.098" called out.

* need to get a 3/8x32 tap or make one as I don't have that size. Making one will be hard as I just sold my lathe in anticipation of getting a new one (or new to me...) - just means a small delay while I wait for it (the tap that is) to come in. The new lathe is as of yet undecided..

BTW who is making the breather - if not made yet we could maybe change the thread to 3/8-24 which I do have a tap for...

Mike

case-nearly-done.JPG
 
Mike I dont think anyone was doing a breather, so you could leave the hole untapped for each to do on assembly or,?

It is looking real nice so far, great job!
Chris
 

Mike,
I second Chris's suggestion, just leave it untapped and each team member make their own breather. I think the mount is
going to be handled the same way. Good progress on the crankcases, did You Mill or turn the interior?

Regards,
Maverick
 
Build going great guys,

All you need for the breather is a small hole in the crank case, the brass cap is just to make it look fancy.

Stew
 
Mike

Yep ... that's the way to go .. untapped is fine with me. ;)

The crankcase looks terrific. :)


Pat H.
 
Alright, I'll drill it for tapping 3/8" (need to look it up..) and leave it untapped.

Maverick - I ended up turning the interior bore with a boring bar. I tried using a boring bar in the boring head on the mil but there was far too much chatter for my liking (mostly due to the plain carbide boring bars I have for it) so I switched back to the lathe and put on the old 4 way tool post to get the job done, with a HSS boring bar. I also tried a quick grinding of an end mill to achieve the undercut but again the neck ends up too small and chatter resulted - maybe if I had a proper woodruff key cutter or T-slot cutter with enough clearance I might have been able to mill it.

Mike
 
More parts ...

Got my Flywheel, Collect and the big brass Nut. Thm: Thm:

Thanks Maverick .. great looking parts, especially the engraving on the flywheel.

Kit is almost complete ... just need the Crankcase from Mike Ross which is almost done and the Steam Chest Cover,
then I can start the assembly process. :) :)

Pat H.
 
So what parts are we still working on? And how are they coming along?

chris
 
Pat - received the cylinders, pistons and wrist pins today - Great job!
Joe - received the steam chest, orbital valve and port flange - excellent as well!

No shop time tonight (dead tired from playing hockey = guaranteed to make a mistake!) but I did play with the new toys that came in and put them together a bit for fun (sorry about the pic quality - camera is dead tired too - it needs batteries)

Mike



trial-fit1.JPG


trial-fit2.JPG
 
Would just like to confirm with everyone. Is the auction model still going ahead? I don't mind either way.
 
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