A small steam engine
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SandyC
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;DHi Guy's,
Rich,
In general, for short or long term storage, I would always EMPTY a copper boiler, preferably whilst it was still hot, and then warm it very gently, with the filler cap OFF, to ensure it was thoroughly dry inside, I would then leave it to stand, unheated, until it cooled down to normal ambient room temperature... after which I would firmly fit the filler cap to seal the boiler.
It should then be stored in a WARM, DRY, and well ventilated, location.
Ideally, for long term storage, the air within the boiler should be replaced with an oxygen free gas, say 'ARGON', or even 'HELIUM', since this will eliminate any possibility of OXIDATION, however, for small model boilers, the small amount of oxygen content would not warrant this.
Completely filling the boiler with water, as suggested by Bob, is fine for shorter periods of storage, and is the method used by many MODEL LOCOMOTIVE/TRACTION ENGINE owners for storage between steamings... the only thing I would add would be to ENSURE the boiler cannot freeze whilst FULL of water.
As for VALUATION Rich... That is a very tough question...
Apart from direct material costs,
Do you include the HOURS taken to actually build it?
If so, then at what Hourly rate? (skilled work is not cheap).
What about SENTIMENTAL value?, and how do you/or can you quantify it's MONETARY value?
I am not convinced that an insurance company would pay much heed to the latter three of the above. They would be more likely to look for the commercial price of the NEAREST EQUIVALENT(not always so easy with a ONE OFF custom built unit) and perhaps add on a small TOKEN AMOUNT for them and call that the INSURED VALUE.
If any subsequent claim were to be made, they would then make a DOWNWARD adjustment, in thier favour, to take into account DEPRECIATION... as is thier WAY.
:-\ :-\ :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( ??? ???
Keep happy.
Best regards.
Sandy. ;D 8) 8)
Maryak
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Rich,
Anti oxidants or oxygen scavengers are chemicals such as sulphite and bisulfite salts, hydrazine, hydroxylamine, carbohydrazides, hydroquinones, etc. etc. etc.
For the very very small amount you would need a scrounging trip to your nearest working steam museum would probably be the best option.
Hope this helps
Best Regards
Bob
PS Sandy's options are probably easier but again it's down to where do I get such small amounts.
Anti oxidants or oxygen scavengers are chemicals such as sulphite and bisulfite salts, hydrazine, hydroxylamine, carbohydrazides, hydroquinones, etc. etc. etc.
For the very very small amount you would need a scrounging trip to your nearest working steam museum would probably be the best option.
Hope this helps
Best Regards
Bob
PS Sandy's options are probably easier but again it's down to where do I get such small amounts.
TheDogofWar
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wow that's just gorgeous Rich. A rich classic look and I just love your attention to detail like the valve handle and the wooden staves and bands on the boiler. It's this type of fine craftsmanship that has drawn me into this hobby in 2 short days. :bow:
Twmaster
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Hello Rich,
I'm new here and am simply blown away by your project. You deserve to be the current winner with that.
One question. I've gone through most of this thread, BTW, learned a few rocking tips from you, I'm curious what lathe you have. Just the tool geek in me wanting to know!
I'm new here and am simply blown away by your project. You deserve to be the current winner with that.
One question. I've gone through most of this thread, BTW, learned a few rocking tips from you, I'm curious what lathe you have. Just the tool geek in me wanting to know!
Hi Mike
A Myford ml7. Its a fairly old one but in superb condition. I bought it about 5 years ago from a fellow model engineer who was moving to pastures new. It had recently been back to Myfords for a refurb, bed grind etc. It came with 3jaw/4 jaw, a set of change wheels, vertical slide, collets etc. I have added keyless chuck, rear tool post for parting off, quick change tool post, ball turning attachment etc. I would like to do the conversion to variable speed control some time soon. Myford spares are not cheap but its a great lathe and very versatile. It should last me a long time.
Cheers
Rich
A Myford ml7. Its a fairly old one but in superb condition. I bought it about 5 years ago from a fellow model engineer who was moving to pastures new. It had recently been back to Myfords for a refurb, bed grind etc. It came with 3jaw/4 jaw, a set of change wheels, vertical slide, collets etc. I have added keyless chuck, rear tool post for parting off, quick change tool post, ball turning attachment etc. I would like to do the conversion to variable speed control some time soon. Myford spares are not cheap but its a great lathe and very versatile. It should last me a long time.
Cheers
Rich
Hi
I have had to carry out a little modification to my small steam engine. It has been much admired by family and friends but every time I show it to anyone they say "lets see it running then". Its not as simple as that with a steam engine. You can't just turn a key and fire it up. It has to be filled with filtered rain water, the burner filled with spirit and lit. Raise enough steam etc etc then of course after the demo it has to be drained and dried and cleaned. All this takes time which mostly I don't have. It would be nice I thought if I could run it on air for quick runs to show people how it performs. What I needed was some method of attaching the air supply quickly. Now I know its bad practice to simply attach an air supply to the boiler. You should never pressurize a boiler with compressed air. With all that in mind I set to and made a little shut off valve. With this valve I can isolate the boiler and connect an air supply in a very short time.
Here's a couple of photos of the finished valve fitted into the boiler. It fits into the bush that was the steam supply outlet.
I'll be posting more photos and drawings and video with a description of how I made it later.
Cheers
Rich
I have had to carry out a little modification to my small steam engine. It has been much admired by family and friends but every time I show it to anyone they say "lets see it running then". Its not as simple as that with a steam engine. You can't just turn a key and fire it up. It has to be filled with filtered rain water, the burner filled with spirit and lit. Raise enough steam etc etc then of course after the demo it has to be drained and dried and cleaned. All this takes time which mostly I don't have. It would be nice I thought if I could run it on air for quick runs to show people how it performs. What I needed was some method of attaching the air supply quickly. Now I know its bad practice to simply attach an air supply to the boiler. You should never pressurize a boiler with compressed air. With all that in mind I set to and made a little shut off valve. With this valve I can isolate the boiler and connect an air supply in a very short time.
Here's a couple of photos of the finished valve fitted into the boiler. It fits into the bush that was the steam supply outlet.
I'll be posting more photos and drawings and video with a description of how I made it later.
Cheers
Rich
mklotz
Well-Known Member
Allow me a stupid question...
Assuming one doesn't exceed the boiler pressure rating, what's the problem with pressurizing a boiler with compressed air?
Assuming one doesn't exceed the boiler pressure rating, what's the problem with pressurizing a boiler with compressed air?
Hi Marv
Apparently it can be dangerous. When I was building my first boiler (posted here on HMEM) I said I would initially test it by pumping up with compressed air and holding it under water. Immediately I was told not to, far too dangerous,don't do it. I think its something to do with the volume of air it takes to pump up the pressure. If a rupture should occur all that air has to come out and expand to its original size.
Cheers
Rich
Apparently it can be dangerous. When I was building my first boiler (posted here on HMEM) I said I would initially test it by pumping up with compressed air and holding it under water. Immediately I was told not to, far too dangerous,don't do it. I think its something to do with the volume of air it takes to pump up the pressure. If a rupture should occur all that air has to come out and expand to its original size.
Cheers
Rich
mklotz
Well-Known Member
Yes, you certainly don't want to pressure TEST a boiler with a compressed gas.
But, after the boiler is proofed to X psi, I don't see the problem with gas pressurizing it to <= X.
But, after the boiler is proofed to X psi, I don't see the problem with gas pressurizing it to <= X.
Yeah, I run my little Jenny Wren on air through the boiler-- never heard of it being a problem except when testing or if you exceed the pressure limits.
This solution is nice and neat though if you do want to keep them separate.
This solution is nice and neat though if you do want to keep them separate.
Hi
Perhaps a misunderstanding on my part but better safe than sorry I suppose. My little compressor is ideal for running a small engine like this as it can't produce a lot of compressed air in a short time. Starting the compressor from empty it will maintain 5-10 psi with the engine running. It is however capable of building up to 50 psi (over the test pressure of this little boiler) if left to run. Another safety measure I have employed is to make the small rubber pipe a push fit on the connector so that should blow off if the pressure gets too high.
Anyway on with how the valve was made.
I started by drilling and tapping a bit of scrap 1/4 steel 3/16 x 40. The body is made from 1/4 round brass firstly turned down to 3/16 and threaded 3/16 x 40 and drilled through 1/16. Cross drilled in the mill and tapped 3/16 x 40. Back in the lathe and parted off to length then screwed into the holder with a copper washer.Drill down just short of depth then finish with a 1/8 mill cutter to give a flat bottom to the hole for the stainless steel ball to seat on. Tap the hole 5/32 x 40.
The next piece to be made is the side connector. Made from 3/16 round brass drilled through 1/16, cross drilled 1/16 and threaded 3/16 x 40. The end that screws into the body only needs 1 thread or so just to hold it in place while it is silver soldered. It needs enough thread to get the cross drilled hole vertical.
The vertical connector is made from 3/16 round brass drilled through 1/16 and threaded one end 3/16 x40. The other end is profiled with a 3/16 mill cutter to suit the radius of the side connector.
A piece of 5/32 round brass is drilled through 1/16 and threaded 5/32 x 40 and lightly countersunk one end with a small centre drill. This will give a small recess for the carbon string packing to sit in. Parted off to a length of .35. A lock nut is made to suit from 1/4 hex brass.
More to follow.
Cheers
Rich
Perhaps a misunderstanding on my part but better safe than sorry I suppose. My little compressor is ideal for running a small engine like this as it can't produce a lot of compressed air in a short time. Starting the compressor from empty it will maintain 5-10 psi with the engine running. It is however capable of building up to 50 psi (over the test pressure of this little boiler) if left to run. Another safety measure I have employed is to make the small rubber pipe a push fit on the connector so that should blow off if the pressure gets too high.
Anyway on with how the valve was made.
I started by drilling and tapping a bit of scrap 1/4 steel 3/16 x 40. The body is made from 1/4 round brass firstly turned down to 3/16 and threaded 3/16 x 40 and drilled through 1/16. Cross drilled in the mill and tapped 3/16 x 40. Back in the lathe and parted off to length then screwed into the holder with a copper washer.Drill down just short of depth then finish with a 1/8 mill cutter to give a flat bottom to the hole for the stainless steel ball to seat on. Tap the hole 5/32 x 40.
The next piece to be made is the side connector. Made from 3/16 round brass drilled through 1/16, cross drilled 1/16 and threaded 3/16 x 40. The end that screws into the body only needs 1 thread or so just to hold it in place while it is silver soldered. It needs enough thread to get the cross drilled hole vertical.
The vertical connector is made from 3/16 round brass drilled through 1/16 and threaded one end 3/16 x40. The other end is profiled with a 3/16 mill cutter to suit the radius of the side connector.
A piece of 5/32 round brass is drilled through 1/16 and threaded 5/32 x 40 and lightly countersunk one end with a small centre drill. This will give a small recess for the carbon string packing to sit in. Parted off to a length of .35. A lock nut is made to suit from 1/4 hex brass.
More to follow.
Cheers
Rich
BobWarfield
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Truly an outstanding project and a very pleasurable read!
I can't help but suggest a further refinement, if I may?
Family and friends would love a steam whistle!
Cheers,
BW
I can't help but suggest a further refinement, if I may?
Family and friends would love a steam whistle!
Cheers,
BW
Hi
I'm sure they would Bob but I really must call an end to this one so that I can move onto other projects. Perhaps when I have a few minutes to spare I'll have a go.
The next piece I made was easy, a simple blanking off nut tapped 3/16 x 40. Although I have shown it next to the side connector on the drawing I ended up reversing the fittings as the steam pipe fitted better that way.
Then a gland nut tapped 5/32 x 40. Pretty much the same as the blanking nut but with a 1/16 hole drilled through for the spindle.
Then the connector for the air pipe. Tapped 3/16 x 40 and drilled through 1/16. The drawing shows it to be turned to 1/8 but at the last moment I double checked the bore size of the rubber pipe and ended up turning it slighter larger to give a tight push fit with the pipe. Its nearer 5/32. I have moved the vertical connector so that you can see how the end has been profiled.
In this photo you can see I have dropped a 1/8 stainless steel ball into the body.
I'm sure what you call it but the bit that pushes onto the ball is made from stainless steel. Turn a bit to 5/32 and thread 5/32 x 40. Drill through 1/16 and turn a boss on the end. Counter sink with a small centre drill to help align the ball. Part off.
Silver solder in a length of 1/16 stainless steel rod.
A trial fit in the body with the ball and marked for length.
A blurry shot of the first stage of silver soldering. The side connector is screwed into body and silver soldered.
More to follow
Cheers
Rich
I'm sure they would Bob but I really must call an end to this one so that I can move onto other projects. Perhaps when I have a few minutes to spare I'll have a go.
The next piece I made was easy, a simple blanking off nut tapped 3/16 x 40. Although I have shown it next to the side connector on the drawing I ended up reversing the fittings as the steam pipe fitted better that way.
Then a gland nut tapped 5/32 x 40. Pretty much the same as the blanking nut but with a 1/16 hole drilled through for the spindle.
Then the connector for the air pipe. Tapped 3/16 x 40 and drilled through 1/16. The drawing shows it to be turned to 1/8 but at the last moment I double checked the bore size of the rubber pipe and ended up turning it slighter larger to give a tight push fit with the pipe. Its nearer 5/32. I have moved the vertical connector so that you can see how the end has been profiled.
In this photo you can see I have dropped a 1/8 stainless steel ball into the body.
I'm sure what you call it but the bit that pushes onto the ball is made from stainless steel. Turn a bit to 5/32 and thread 5/32 x 40. Drill through 1/16 and turn a boss on the end. Counter sink with a small centre drill to help align the ball. Part off.
Silver solder in a length of 1/16 stainless steel rod.
A trial fit in the body with the ball and marked for length.
A blurry shot of the first stage of silver soldering. The side connector is screwed into body and silver soldered.
More to follow
Cheers
Rich
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