1916 65 HP Case Traction Engine 1/16 Scale

[raveney]

great design and well done

Thank you John,
I made a few more pieces this week. The first crankshaft flywheel was made to print (1.375") and thought it looked out of scale, so made a larger 1.750" diameter one. One can also see the clutch engagement lever enhancements on the far side.


Also made the round more typical crosshead cylinder that other builders have made on this site. Thought it may be interesting to see the setup on drilling the bolt circle and how it was held to mill the slots. I could have set up the rotary table, but I used a square collet block instead. I have some fat parallels that are snug fit into the table slots and I use them for indexing squarely when a part is too tall in the vice.
After that, I drilled and tapped the 4-40 oil hole on a snug 5/8 fit arbor. Then I shortened the arbor to fit inside the bore so I wouldn't distort the crosshead cylinder when milling the mounting feature. Used a bit of lead so the brass wouldn't mar.


I was still able to hold the entire tractor in my vice to register and drill the mounting bolt for the crosshead cylinder. After attaching it to the horn plate, I made up a support similar to images that I found online. I will hold off drilling into the "boiler" shell until I make the connecting rod and crosshead. Made the crosshead cylinder support longer so it can hold the maintenance platform and future steps. Its hot and humid here in central Florida, so I'm starting to get a nice patina of rust on the tractor should add texture to the paint

 

[GreenTwin]

Rivets really make the model for me.

Great work !

.

 

[raveney]

Thank you Green-twin,
Continued working on engine parts using Rudy's plan as a guideline for material choices and most dimensions. It's a small project in itself to make the engine for this tractor. Silver soldered the cylinder in two parts like many others had done, and drilled steam passages on an angle rather than straight to streamline the pathway. It all rotates freely, but I disassembled it to measure up and make the rear cylinder steam gland.

 

[raveney]

Testing the tractor's engine and clutch using compressed air



First time making a slip eccentric and rocker type valve actuation. Probably not the most precision way of doing things, but it worked after playing around with it. I am not a fan of grub or set screws holding things in place, especially things like the eccentric driver that needs to be adjusted a lot in the beginning. This engine uses slide through journal bearings rather then pedestals and the grub screws damage the shaft which damages the bearings every time one takes it apart. I made a new shaft after every thing was adjusted and located. Keyed the engine flywheel and made a flat for the valve driver.

Used a dremel stone to make the draincock spindles.

Used a trepanning knife for the head gaskets.

Made a temporary plastic steam chest cover to sort out the timing of the valve slide.


This was necessary to diagnose one of the issues i was having with the valve spindle unthreaded from the valve rocker. Two jam nuts solved that


last image is how I secure the leather shoes to the clutch using contact cement

 

[gbritnell]

Coming along very nicely!

 

[krypto]

The clutch seems to be working great as you can stall the engine with it engaged. Good design!

 

[kwoodhands]

Thank you Green-twin,
Continued working on engine parts using Rudy's plan as a guideline for material choices and most dimensions. It's a small project in itself to make the engine for this tractor. Silver soldered the cylinder in two parts like many others had done, and drilled steam passages on an angle rather than straight to streamline the pathway. It all rotates freely, but I disassembled it to measure up and make the rear cylinder steam gland.

View attachment 147857

Nice work, I have a question. I have finished most of the work on the cylinder and steam chest . Rudy shows a 1/16 " slot thru the valve. The valve spindle is 3/32" with 2/56 x 1/4" thread on the end.
Is the slot the correct dimension? Spindle is 3/32" = .096 , slot is 1/16" = .062. The spindle is thicker than the slot, Am I missing something ?
I also bored the steam passage on an angle , lot easier than Rudy's method.

 

[raveney]

Nice work, I have a question. I have finished most of the work on the cylinder and steam chest . Rudy shows a 1/16 " slot thru the valve. The valve spindle is 3/32" with 2/56 x 1/4" thread on the end.
Is the slot the correct dimension? Spindle is 3/32" = .096 , slot is 1/16" = .062. The spindle is thicker than the slot, Am I missing something ?
I also bored the steam passage on an angle , lot easier than Rudy's method.

Thank you and good question Kwood.
Yes the valve should have a 0.062 thru slot. The valve spindle needs to be turned down to 0.061 for the length of the slot as the blue arrow shows below. This way the spindle is nested into the valve and pushes and pulls it back and forth. I had to trim off the end of the spindle a bit more than this picture shows as it hit the chest at the end of the stroke. Also be sure to use double hex nuts or jamb nuts on the opposite end 2-56 thread or it will go out of adjustment while running.

 

[kwoodhands]

Thank you and good question Kwood.
Yes the valve should have a 0.062 thru slot. The valve spindle needs to be turned down to 0.061 for the length of the slot as the blue arrow shows below. This way the spindle is nested into the valve and pushes and pulls it back and forth. I had to trim off the end of the spindle a bit more than this picture shows as it hit the chest at the end of the stroke. Also be sure to use double hex nuts or jamb nuts on the opposite end 2-56 thread or it will go out of adjustment while running.

View attachment 148182

Thanks, I knew the turned down portion was to trap the spindle in the valve. Common sense should have told me the spindle is turned down .061 to fit the valve. I was going to use blue Loctite on the threads but jam nut will work too. Wonder why the leads are different thickness. The drawing shows 5/64" and 1/16".
I suppose the thicker end is toward the 10/32 nose.

 

[Nikhil Bhale]

Thank you and good question Kwood.
Yes the valve should have a 0.062 thru slot. The valve spindle needs to be turned down to 0.061 for the length of the slot as the blue arrow shows below. This way the spindle is nested into the valve and pushes and pulls it back and forth. I had to trim off the end of the spindle a bit more than this picture shows as it hit the chest at the end of the stroke. Also be sure to use double hex nuts or jamb nuts on the opposite end 2-56 thread or it will go out of adjustment while running.

You are in the process of making a beautiful traction engine. I am following this built from start. Inspired by you I have started to gather material for this built.

I have made 2 of the PM research steam engines. The valve for those engines is not "fixed" to the spindle. Rather it is "floating" on the spindle. What I have learned from Youtube specifically from Kieth Appleton's channel is that if the valve is fixed to the spindle it will have hard time sealing the steam ports. It must be sufficiently loose on the spindle so that the steam pressure can press it down on the port/valve chest face to seal it.

Regards
Nikhil

 

[raveney]

Thanks, I knew the turned down portion was to trap the spindle in the valve. Common sense should have told me the spindle is turned down .061 to fit the valve. I was going to use blue Loctite on the threads but jam nut will work too. Wonder why the leads are different thickness. The drawing shows 5/64" and 1/16".
I suppose the thicker end is toward the 10/32 nose.

my interpretation is:
the 5/64" dimension as the bottom of the 1/16" slot and the 1/16" dimension as the thickness of the leads because of the side view. The slot should be 10/64" or 0.3125" depth. as drawn. I didn't go by any of these dimensions as I have been building to fit other parts as I go.

Critical check is that the valve is free to float, has overlap on sides, doesn't rub on chest cavity, doesn't contact either end of the cavity during the 1/4" stroke, and covers the inlet & exhaust while uncovering the opposite inlet slot. Rudy doesn't dimension the inside of the steam chest . Not thrilled about the center cover tapping hitting the exhaust passageway on the bottom of the cylinder, but it is functional and a dab of thread sealant or loctite will keep it from leaking.

Please continue to enjoy your build. I really like this project

 

[raveney]

You are in the process of making a beautiful traction engine. I am following this built from start. Inspired by you I have started to gather material for this built.

I have made 2 of the PM research steam engines. The valve for those engines is not "fixed" to the spindle. Rather it is "floating" on the spindle. What I have learned from Youtube specifically from Kieth Appleton's channel is that if the valve is fixed to the spindle it will have hard time sealing the steam ports. It must be sufficiently loose on the spindle so that the steam pressure can press it down on the port/valve chest face to seal it.

Regards
Nikhil

Thank you Nikhil
I think the additional detail on the spoked wheels is worthwhile. The rivet press was a game changer for me instead of using conventional rivet snap tools.
Enjoy your build

 

[raveney]

The steering worm and gear was made previously when the drive train gears were made. A piece of 10 gauge copper was wound CCW on a 5/16 arbor and then soft soldered to the steering chain shaft.

2 mm cable chain was purchased and fitted to the front axle using silver brazed tabs and jump links that came with the chain. I bent the steering wheel using my custom wire bender and soft soldered it to a brass hub. I chose to make the wheel a bit fatter using 1/8 brass instead of 3/32 like the drawings suggested.

The steering brackets are held in place with 0-80 screws for maintenance and future painting.

I use a recycled refrigerator compressor to demonstrate the steam engines at home and in public when indoors. The case is a simple box with magnets holding the lid in place. It is not high pressure, but has enough to run models. I also use it on my scroll saw to blow the sawdust away.

To test the steering, I ran it in a tight radius inside the garage. Kind of funny side note.... the steam inlet nipple unthreaded and the engine stalled because of the loss of air.

 

[kwoodhands]

my interpretation is:
the 5/64" dimension as the bottom of the 1/16" slot and the 1/16" dimension as the thickness of the leads because of the side view. The slot should be 10/64" or 0.3125" depth. as drawn. I didn't go by any of these dimensions as I have been building to fit other parts as I go.

Critical check is that the valve is free to float, has overlap on sides, doesn't rub on chest cavity, doesn't contact either end of the cavity during the 1/4" stroke, and covers the inlet & exhaust while uncovering the opposite inlet slot. Rudy doesn't dimension the inside of the steam chest . Not thrilled about the center cover tapping hitting the exhaust passageway on the bottom of the cylinder, but it is functional and a dab of thread sealant or loctite will keep it from leaking.

Please continue to enjoy your build. I really like this project

Drawing shows the depth of the valve 15/64 = .096 slot cannot be .312 deep . If I recall I made the slot .156 deep. Instead of the bulb at the end of the valve spindle I will thread the valve as shown but mill a slot perpendicular to the slot and make a threaded nut. This method allows the D valve to float.
Worked well in past builds so i will stick to it.
mike

 

[raveney]

You are correct Kwoods, I believe your way is the more traditional way. Also 10/64 is not 0.312"

Started the boiler by cutting an 8 inch piece of 1-1/2" type L copper pipe and truing the ends. Drilled the boiler tube and bushing holes on the mill using center drill and finishing with two flute end mill. Lots of WD-40 and pecking technique to avoid snapping bits

Decided to tie the 3 pieces of 3/16" steel rod in plane using two pieces of scrap as I bent the front tube ligaments. Annealed the copper first, but bent it cold.

I already had a custom tubing bender, so I made a set of 3/16" dies out of aluminum and made the tight bends. They are a few degrees more than a right angle. Also the outboard pair needs about an 1/8" longer short end than the plan calls. I used the plan as a template and checked the fit of the boiler into the tractor before brazing. A bit of SS picture wire holds the parts in place while heating. I think the 1-1/2" copper is the upper limit for my torch.

The boiler bushes were made of bronze and brazed in a separate session. Then everything cooled before placing in a gallon bag of vinegar to pickle over night. I started the end caps, but my two sided tape method of holding doesn't work well with copper because the WD-40 dissolves the adhesive. Plan B on another day will be to tap and thread through the stay rod hole.

 

[krypto]

What silver solder are you using? Like you said, that torch is on the small size for this type of work.

 

[kwoodhands]

You are correct Kwoods, I believe your way is the more traditional way. Also 10/64 is not 0.312"

Started the boiler by cutting an 8 inch piece of 1-1/2" type L copper pipe and truing the ends. Drilled the boiler tube and bushing holes on the mill using center drill and finishing with two flute end mill. Lots of WD-40 and pecking technique to avoid snapping bits

Decided to tie the 3 pieces of 3/16" steel rod in plane using two pieces of scrap as I bent the front tube ligaments. Annealed the copper first, but bent it cold.
View attachment 148278
I already had a custom tubing bender, so I made a set of 3/16" dies out of aluminum and made the tight bends. They are a few degrees more than a right angle. Also the outboard pair needs about an 1/8" longer short end than the plan calls. I used the plan as a template and checked the fit of the boiler into the tractor before brazing. A bit of SS picture wire holds the parts in place while heating. I think the 1-1/2" copper is the upper limit for my torch.
View attachment 148279View attachment 148281
The boiler bushes were made of bronze and brazed in a separate session. Then everything cooled before placing in a gallon bag of vinegar to pickle over night. I started the end caps, but my two sided tape method of holding doesn't work well with copper because the WD-40 dissolves the adhesive. Plan B on another day will be to tap and thread through the stay rod hole.
View attachment 148282

I made the boiler almost first, after the wheels. Rudy's method of opening up the boiler tube with a 3/16" rod did not work for me. I bored 5/32 " holes straight down. Then made a 3/16" D bit 10" long. Do not recall exact length of the D bit but the long bit keeps the drill motor off the boiler. I was able to open up the hole at the approximate angle shown. I annealed the front tubes 3 times. I have a tubing bender that works well. I found that the length of the bend and the projection below the boiler does not work for me. My steel casing is 2" ID, the copper pipe is 1-5/8" OD . This leaves 3/8" for the bend. I think the drawing called for 3/4" projection. I wound up with a smaller pitch than shown. Research found that amount of pitch is not critical, as long as there is some pitch.
I also use 20% vinegar for a pickle . 5% vinegar works just as well , just takes longer.
My first attempt did not go well , water tubes leaked .I followed Rudy's way with the 3/16" rod. Tubes leaked at the elongated holes. Finally after several attempts the boiler did not leak.It looked lousy with so many heatings. I decide to use this boiler to experiment. boring for the water tubes. The D bit worked well.
Next was the front and back heads and the stay. I did the back head first, went well. Installed the stay and hard soldered the front head. This did not go well. Spent hours cleaning up the front head joint. Tried again and same lousy results. I cut the front head off . When done the boiler was ruined. Went to tap a part for a neighbor and started to brush tapping fluid on the tap. I had the flux in my hand, I used Moly Dee tapping fluid instead of the black flux on the front head. Both containers were pill bottles and black flux and moly Dee look similar. I have them clearly marked now, a little late.
Third try went perfect, tested the boiler at 60 PSI for 30 minutes. Took the wife out to dinner.
I use a Victor torch , has two burner heads. Small one for most work. I use the larger burner for the boiler. I believe it took about 5 minutes to get the copper red hot. I think you may have a problem with a Bernzomatic type torch, even with Mapp gas. If you have someone with a second torch then it may work.
I use a propane bottle for barbecues and the Victor torch. You may want to look into a torch.
You have done a terrific job so far, A proper torch will ensure that the rest of the build goes well.
mike

 

[raveney]

What silver solder are you using? Like you said, that torch is on the small size for this type of work.

Hi Krypto,
For the boiler I am using Harris Safety-SILV 56 with the dark flux. I have the light flux, but it takes awhile to get to temperature for the setup I'm using so the dark type is better.

 

[raveney]

A small piece of leather worked better than the tape on the copper end plates

I had saved my old worn out Mapp gas torch, so I patched it up and had it in standby in case I needed it for the boiler heads. I have seriously considered the Victor Turbo torch air/acetylene set up because I have two empty B-tanks and a regular acetylene regulator setup. I opted out of changing my plan for the $300, and because I didn't really want to change setups half way through the boiler. So I plodded on heedful of Mike's advice.


Wrapped the boiler in SuperWool ceramic fibre to hold some heat in, and did one end at a time. The end plate, bushings and stay was done in all in one shot rather than separate as others have done. My plumbing experience seemed to insist that it would leak if I heated a joint up in such close proximity to another. Thankfully, everything worked out fine in the end.



It was oxidized pretty heavily, but I had bought some citric acid powder to try out and it cleaned up nicely after soaking for just a few moments. All the joints looked great, so I tested with water and air to 60 psig and let set for 30 minutes. No leaks

There may be a slight interference between the LH tapping and the countershaft. In hindsight I wish I had clocked these two tappings so they were level across the top. The safety valve hex head also has a small interference with the oval slot under the steam dome. Both items are pretty minor to work around and I am very pleased with this milestone in the build.

 

[johnmorley7]

Just to let you gentlemen know that your posts, especially when you get into detail and problems are being eagerely watched. I have made enough "bits" to attempt silver soldering the flywheel and road wheels.. Its a real test of patience trying to align hub, spokes and rim in a secure manner as there is not much meat if I get it off centre. but slowley slowley it goes.