1916 65 HP Case Traction Engine 1/16 Scale

[raveney]

I think there may be another build of this tractor on this site

Yes John, I have found two on this site so far by Mike N and 4156DF . I learn everything by watching Youtube and reading machinist forums. Thank goodness that people are willing to document and share their vast knowledge.

I plan to spend time with the engine part of the build to make it realistic including the crosshead as Dennis did. The gear ratio is another thing that will be changed to slow things down. I left off drilling the idler and pinion holes until I get that far.

Thank you for your compliments and good advice.

 

[raveney]

Milestone today. Up on all four wheels

The front axle was modeled in FUSION360 first because I wanted it to look scale.

The center part was made from brass stock so it was easy to braze it and shape it. The center pin in O-1 drill rod because I thought I would need to harden it, but its plenty stout as is. The axles were made in two pieces in case I wanted to shorten them up. They are a semi press fit into the center part, but green loctited also.

First the fishbelly on the center part in the mini lathe (6 degree angle, 7/16" diameter in middle)

Then I milled a small bit of 3/8 SQ brass for the eyelet. Ran a 1/4 mill on the bottom with two 1/8 ball end mill passes for the turnbuckles. Later on two short bits of 1/8 brass go here. Then center drilled 1/16" and a bit of wire filler jammed in to fixture it all in place while brazing.

a small 4-40 hex head bolt is holding the swivel in place and I made a 3/4 bronze bushing to keep the swivel inside the perch. It is attached using two 8-32 grub screws (not shown in this picture)

I think It looks pretty freaking good. Hmmm perhaps the crankshaft hole needs to be relocated forward about 5/16"? Compare to the picture in the background? Rim of the Left Hand flywheel is about flush with the leading edge of the horn plate.

 

[sawyer massey]

Milestone today. Up on all four wheels

The front axle was modeled in FUSION360 first because I wanted it to look scale.
View attachment 145620

The center part was made from brass stock so it was easy to braze it and shape it. The center pin in O-1 drill rod because I thought I would need to harden it, but its plenty stout as is. The axles were made in two pieces in case I wanted to shorten them up. They are a semi press fit into the center part, but green loctited also.

First the fishbelly on the center part in the mini lathe (6 degree angle, 7/16" diameter in middle)
View attachment 145621
Then I milled a small bit of 3/8 SQ brass for the eyelet. Ran a 1/4 mill on the bottom with two 1/8 ball end mill passes for the turnbuckles. Later on two short bits of 1/8 brass go here. Then center drilled 1/16" and a bit of wire filler jammed in to fixture it all in place while brazing.
View attachment 145624
View attachment 145622View attachment 145623
a small 4-40 hex head bolt is holding the swivel in place and I made a 3/4 bronze bushing to keep the swivel inside the perch. It is attached using two 8-32 grub screws (not shown in this picture)
View attachment 145625
I think It looks pretty freaking good. Hmmm perhaps the crankshaft hole needs to be relocated forward about 5/16"? Compare to the picture in the background? Rim of the Left Hand flywheel is about flush with the leading edge of the horn plate.

Lay out your gear train .......find out where it will go easier like that

 

[raveney]

Worked on the fuel bunkers and water tank this weekend. I have difficult envisioning sheet metal parts, so I built the plan version first and then modified to closer match images I found online. The rear bunkers are trapezoidal shapes rather than square. I will probably bend up 3/32 TIG wire for the raised lip ontop.

First I had to swap my bandsaw blade to a 24 TPI and it made a huge difference cutting the thin sheet. It's a pain to do it on my WEN 56-1/2" bench top saw, but it was not safe with the 8-12 TPI variable pitch blade.

Then I chamfered the rivet press jaws so it could reach better on these sheet metal parts.

The plan version looked nice and gave a basis to measure off. Note that my grouters stick out farther then the sheet brass cleats Rudy made, so everything needed to shift rearward anyway. I also added a rivet line to simulate the lower half being a water tank. The complex parts that make up the seats were the only salvageable parts in the end. Still have lots of rivets left to install, but most are drilled.

This build is very enjoyable so far because the tolerances are fractional rather than mils.

 

[kuhncw]

Very nice work. My hat's off to you guys who do sheet metal and rivets.

Chuck

 

[raveney]

Thank you Chuck,

Fairly new territory for me, but the learning curve is not too steep and practice sheet metal is cheap or free. No substitute for good quality copper rivets though. I tried making my own out of copper wire on the rims, but pre-made is the way to go. The rivet press and sheet metal brake improves the repeatability also.

Here is the sketch that I am working towards. Its from a 1916 Case Catalog

I wanted to build the grab handles and wasn't able to replicate two that matched. I am also really intrigued by benders so a side project was started.
Came across some videos of a knockoff bender from China based on a US version called Duo-mite. Reviews of the cheapo and lots of zooming in to Amazon screen shots later, I came up with a plan. I had some suitable steel so cost was free. In hindsight, ordering the cheapo and then modifying it would have been a lot faster. Or order the proper on-size materials, but its a hobby right...?

I used 1/2 drill rod pivot pins and 1/4 flat hot rolled, HRS, for the handle. 3/4 HRS for slide block and pin holders. Once the main parts were completed, I made a close follower using the tool and some 1/8 SS. Tig welded the loop closed. Most fasteners are 1/4-20 SHCS except for side block screws which are 8-32.

Worked out nicely, so I made some extra dies for future projects. Once I use it a few times, I will disassemble and oil blacken it, maybe make a proper wood case.

Also made the tool boxes and thicker seats out of brass and held in place with 0-80 screws. The rear step is similar. I'll hold off on the rear drawbar and filler pipe until I sort out the fuel tank.

 

[raveney]

I would like to take a break from sheet metal, so decided to attempt the smokebox door up front. Rudy's version is functional and hints at the hinges, but I wanted one that swings open, latches and has Abe the eagle on the cover without the CASE lettering like this one...
I also did the front wheel hubs like this held on with #0-80 screws instead of c-clips.

Started by making the frame from a 3" square of 1/8" A36 of which I have plenty. I had to think on the work holding and order of operations a little here and included some images that may seem trivial to many, but may also help future modelers some.
Drill center for 3/8 pin, drill 8-32 fixturing screws, drill 2-56 clearance bolt hole circle.

Attach to stub arbor and center on 3/8 pin, face and turn OD, recess so its snug inside boiler shell

attach to scrap and bore out center, mill fixturing slots for hinge posts, braze hinge posts

profile hinge posts and drill hinge pins using extended drill bit

locate 2-56 holes on boiler shell using dremel and drill out on drill press. Carefully hand tap 2-56 and pray that you don't snap a tap off. Done

 

[raveney]

Completed the smoke box door and started on the stack. I chose 1/4 flat brass for the door so I could machine easily and solder onto it. Started by facing a 2" stub of aluminum and using two sided IPG tape to adhere the brass. This tape was rated tops by wood workers, and it certainly works excellent unlike superglue and other brand tapes I have tried.

After machining both sides of the door, I slotted space for the hinges and brazed them on. Clamped the assembly to the frame and jig I already had in the above post and drilled the hinge pins.

Next, I turned some (more than two) small brass handles, annealed and bent them into submission. They kept snapping where I grooved for the ultra-tiny E-clips that hold them in the door so they can pivot. Shaped two tiny latches and soft soldered them on. The handles are larger than scale but are functional. Let me know what you think.

Then I worked a scrap bit of 0.065 brass until it looked less like a duck and more like an eagle. This is harder than it sounds for some stupid reason. Still a bit plump compared to my reference image, but it will do. Soft soldered it onto the door.

Started on my interpretation of the smokestack. I have seen two types on tractors just like the axles and smoke box doors. I am opting for the flanged two-piece version and attempting to use aluminum. Tapered it down on lathe and scarfed the boiler shell radius with the boring head. Then drilled and tapped the boiler shell on a super-sketchy setup in my drill press. I am really surprised I didn't snap any bits or taps.

I think I will attempt thinning the base more today because I really don't like the recesses on the screws. Also realized I don't need 3 screws on each side. The middle hole on the LLHS was for the steam injection pipe into the stack and not a bolt.

 

[GreenTwin]

Beautiful work for sure.

Its great fun to watch this tractor come together.

.

 

[raveney]

Thank you Pat,

Glad to see the work is being watched and appreciated.
I reworked the smoke-stack base after comparing closely to the actual part. Below is before and after.

Turned a 3 degree taper on the 3-1/2" long stack going from 1.025" down to the 0.978 flange diameter. I drilled it 5/8" and taper bored the inside out to match the 1/16" thickness at the top. Made the decorative ring separate because it was 1.526" diameter. Radiused to 5/32 and 0.3125 wide. Snug fit onto the stack and green loctited in place.

I messed up on the taper and had to redo the final OD down at the mounting flange to fit the SHCS heads. I can't see making 1/8" across flats, #2-56 hex head bolts to fit here. I also filled in the extra (middle) bolt holes with some JB-Weld. Looks like the image now.

Now I need to order the brass to make the flywheels and gears

 

[johnmcc69]

That all looks great! I'm not sure about the socket head screws though...but, I understand the difficulty of having fitted hex head screws in.

I think the eagle looks pretty good, how did you do that? I thought I had remembered seeing someone 3D print an eagle (somewhere?) & using that.. it would take sometime to create the CAD model for that with it's shapes & details. Looks like you did pretty good with it though.

VERY nice work!

You will be cutting your own gears then? What have you decided to use for gear ratio/no. of teeth? I've often wondered how to determine suitable gear ratios for the gear train of this, not really knowing the speed of the crankshaft. Interesting stuff...

John

 

[metalmangler]

Completed the smoke box door and started on the stack. I chose 1/4 flat brass for the door so I could machine easily and solder onto it. Started by facing a 2" stub of aluminum and using two sided IPG tape to adhere the brass. This tape was rated tops by wood workers, and it certainly works excellent unlike superglue and other brand tapes I have tried.

Which particular IPG tape did you use ? They seem to have rather a lot of different types.

 

[raveney]

You will be cutting your own gears then? What have you decided to use for gear ratio/no. of teeth?

Hi John,

I will try to cut my own gears as I already made most of the involute gear cutters. I need to make the button tool and #2 disc for the larger gears. I heeded some online builders advice about slowing the tractor down and have chosen 22.5:1 as the ratio. This is lower than Rudy's suggestion, but higher than Doug's build shown on this site. It should give a scale speed based on my wheel diameter and 250 rpm input. The real tractor went 2.5 mph and mine should go 0.22 ft/sec.
To achieve this I plan on
20T crank pinion
80T idler gear
90T countershaft gear
24T countershaft pinion
120T bull gear

I will detail the process once I get there. I figured I could make them all out of one piece of 3/16 x 3 x 12 brass plate, if I make the hubs separately. That's a bout $35 material so much cheaper than buying gears if one enjoys the labor, which I do.

For the eagle, 3D printing would be the sh%t, but I don't have the room for any more toys in the garage. Rich people problems... for sure.

Thank you for the opinion on the SHCs. I will attempt to make some as I haven't been able to source any 1/8 or 3 mm hex bar in anything other than SS304 which would be brutal to thread. I might even treat myself to the easy button and order them from Goodshalls.

 

[raveney]

Which particular IPG tape did you use ? They seem to have rather a lot of different types.

try this link
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B8HLRVY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I bought it on Amazon and it says Intertape 591, 1" x 36 yard for $18

First time I used it on metal and it was fantastic. I also used it to hold the Eagle while I carved the wings, feathers and eye. The adhesive comes off using WD-40 and not alcohol or acetone. Super strong in shear, but pulls apart in tension. probably good for milling operations also.

 

[metalmangler]

I bought it on Amazon and it says Intertape 591, 1" x 36 yard for $18

Thanks. I just looked for it on Amazon UK - it's £31.45 (US$ 39.24) over here !

 

[raveney]

Today is gear cutting day
I made a involute #2 cutter yesterday, and will attempt the bull gears, countershaft and idler today using Mr. Ivan Laws nicely written book.

 

[raveney]

Hello again,
Couldn't find any tool steel large enough (0.670") for the button cutter that I needed so I used cherry red hardening compound on some 1018. The tool holder is 1/2" mild steel to fit a regular tool holder and the relief is milled at 5 degrees. Then the button is loctited into the hole and set aside to cure while I made the 0.156 O1 tool steel cutter disc on the lathe using the arbor in my gear cutter kit. After the loctite cures, one relieves the top side of the button using a carbide end mill, and then dresses sharp using a diamond plate. I only made a single button tool because of the large diameter. Other cutters used twin buttons. The kit I made is in the background in a wooden case. I have almost a full 20 degree 48 DP set now, just need the No. 1, 135T to rack cutter if I ever need one.


It was very sharp and didn't chatter at all


I then rough cut and turned 3/16 brass plate to the required ODs and reamed the centers to fit on stub arbors with nuts and center holes in the ends. It is extremely important that the blanks do not have any run out in the rotary table or they will look like heck and be very clunky. My rotary table 4 jaw is a scroll chuck and not independently adjustable, so I had to tap it true each time I set up a new blank. Screwed up the two 24 T gears first time. You can see them on the right in the last picture.

I will need to reset my table to horizontal and do the spokes and slots next. Well maybe I will attempt the small steering spur gear and worm. Never cut a worm and worm gear before. There is a chapter in Ivan's book...... hmmm

 

[krypto]

Nice work! While it's not going to be my next project, the Case tractor is definitely going into my build queue. Got Rudy's book and I've been saving online documentation and ideas locally. There's already some great build threads posted and your build is another I'll be watching closely. I like the way you are adding scale details and those gears you just made look great.

Thanks for the link on the tape! Double-side (servo) tape is a staple in my shop and I'm always looking for something new. It's expensive, but from the reviews it seems to be a very high quality product.

For other's following along, a link to the 1916 Case catalog is here:

https://archive.org/details/1916CaseCatalog/

 

[kwoodhands]

Hello again,
Couldn't find any tool steel large enough (0.670") for the button cutter that I needed so I used cherry red hardening compound on some 1018. The tool holder is 1/2" mild steel to fit a regular tool holder and the relief is milled at 5 degrees. Then the button is loctited into the hole and set aside to cure while I made the 0.156 O1 tool steel cutter disc on the lathe using the arbor in my gear cutter kit. After the loctite cures, one relieves the top side of the button using a carbide end mill, and then dresses sharp using a diamond plate. I only made a single button tool because of the large diameter. Other cutters used twin buttons. The kit I made is in the background in a wooden case. I have almost a full 20 degree 48 DP set now, just need the No. 1, 135T to rack cutter if I ever need one.
View attachment 146739View attachment 146740View attachment 146742View attachment 146741

It was very sharp and didn't chatter at all
View attachment 146743View attachment 146744

I then rough cut and turned 3/16 brass plate to the required ODs and reamed the centers to fit on stub arbors with nuts and center holes in the ends. It is extremely important that the blanks do not have any run out in the rotary table or they will look like heck and be very clunky. My rotary table 4 jaw is a scroll chuck and not independently adjustable, so I had to tap it true each time I set up a new blank. Screwed up the two 24 T gears first time. You can see them on the right in the last picture.

View attachment 146745View attachment 146746View attachment 146747

View attachment 146748

I will need to reset my table to horizontal and do the spokes and slots next. Well maybe I will attempt the small steering spur gear and worm. Never cut a worm and worm gear before. There is a chapter in Ivan's book...... hmmm

Nice work. The steering gear is cut the same as the other gears. The worm I cut was on the lathe like it was a screw. I did not attempt to angle the screw cut, it works anyhow.
I made the gear and worm 48 pitch, same as the other gears. Takes a lot of turns on the steering wheel to move the the wheels. Because the steering is separate from the gear train , a larger pitch can be used.
I had not cut gears before , made many mistakes. The mistakes were made in Acetal so not a big deal.
I did not add the hub , Turned the blank with the hub. Rudy probably saved money adding the hub after the gear was done.
I am trying to figure out the humidfier valve and how it works. Plumbing store did not have a valve like Rudy shows in the book. So far I haven't seen one on the web that looks similar.
I think maybe the water tank should be the entire width like the original appears to be.
Rather than pumping water into the tank , can the tank be filled another way? Seems unwieldy to have to
pump water instead of filling.

 

[sawyer massey]

The tank is full width under ... there's a filler on the back left hand side just under the coal bunker ....