1 / 8 Scale Galloway Build

[zneb]

Hi Bob , thanks for the new info..My distance between head and piston is .168.... My piston is 1.079 in length .The other measurements are all within a couple thousand . Do you think this could be My problem ? I thought it would give me more compression.The bevel I meant was on the part sticking in the carb not the orfice..Gary

 

[BobsModels]

Gary

I really do not know if that would be a problem. Your compression must very high when you roll it over. At a high compression once it missed firing once it would have very few chances to get it on a second go around. The high compression would just stop the engine.

I do not think the bevel is the issue.

You said you did not get it to fire at all. Did you place your finger over the air intake to choke it to make sure you had fuel in the mixer?

Try that to insure fuel. shut the needle off and then see if it fires. If it does you may need to open the needle quick to keep it going until you find a spot where it runs.

Have you swapped mixers back to see if the original still runs?

Bob

 

[zneb]

Yes Bob I tryed the fuel thing and ton's of other things.I made the piston the right size and now have it ready to try again. For some reason it didn't help.The old carb is on a different engine and works fine..I decided to take out plug and run it in for awhile and just discovered I had no spark at plug..After checking I found a bad hall senser.This may have been going bad for some time and causing my problems slowly a little bit at a time" Why Engine would run for a short time and stop,and start right up but stop again after about 15 seconds almost every time" So now I have to waite till I get the new hall senser...I'll let you know what happens then..By the way if you know anyone looking for small taps and dies "K ans S Engineering US Made good Quality " I have some new in box for sale cheap 0-80,1-72,2-56,4-40 and 3-48...A hardware store here closed and I bought all they had left.Also some tap and die handles. There on E-bay also. Thanks for your help Gary H

 

[barnesrickw]

Price on the taps?


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[zneb]

Taps are $3 and Dies are $5 ,plus shipping..I will sell 1 tap and 1 die for $10.00 Including shipping...Thanks for your interest

 

[barnesrickw]

I will get back with you. I still have a bad habit of breaking any tap smaller than a 6-32.


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[zneb]

After closer looking I find the Taps and Dies are not Made In USA,but sold by K & L of Il. Sorry for bad info ,but they are very good quality...

 

[zneb]

Not K & L it should Be K & S of Il. I can't type either Today I guess

 

[zneb]

Hi bob and all interested .I replaced the hall sensor and still no action .I turned the part that the needle valve seat is in out 2 turn's and got it to fire if I keep turning it over .It will not run on it's own .I turned it in a little ond out a little more but seems to be of no more help.all other dimensions are as per drawing now... I've got to get it back running by the 4th for a show .so I'll have to pick up my pace some ..Any ideas will help Thanks Gary H

 

[BobsModels]

Gary

Been away so just saw your post. Well I am stumped. I have one suggestion and I have used this with an engine when first starting them to get things adjusted. I have an adaptor that fits on an electric drill. It is 6 - 2" diameter rubber washers, see picture. It can crank the engine and most times if it is firing at all it will finally take off. I can then fiddle with the needle , choke etc. I am guessing you have something like this or that is what you mean by "keep turning it over".

I am just going to dump a bit of ideas for completeness maybe it will trigger something, does it flood if you choke it ie fuel on your finger. Do you notice a difference in fuel flow if you open the needle way out. Is the fuel line your original or did you use that small one I sent, if so might want to switch back, maybe too much restriction. How is the compression ie does it still "bounce". Have you changed the plug.

One other thought. How tight is the intake spring? I really made mine light as my first one restricted fuel flow. It only needs to be strong enough to barely hold the valve closed.

That is about all I can think of, it still sounds like a fuel problem.

Bob

 

[zneb]

It;s the pest again ,well I got it to run for about 5 seconds too maybe the longest was 20 seconds.It usually has to be primed one turn and it will start right up again.It don;t run real good when it does run speeds up and then seems to be needing more fuel barely turning over.I can hear the intake valve noise when it does run .when I open the needle just a tiny tiny bit it floods out.If I shut the needle tight then and turn it over about 3 or 4 times it starts up again.I was going put a little stronger spring on but maybe it's to strong now for some reason.My needle valve threads are 5-40 I think I'll double check that...Any further ideas to add to this info .there must be something I'm missing.Gary H

Needle valve is 1-72

 

[zneb]

Well I finally got the 1/8 scale galloway running good.It was lots of little things that needed better adjusting.Thanks for everyones help .,Now I'm working on the 1/6 scale galloway.Going to try and build one of each scale...Going good so far .....

 

[Cogsy]

Going to try and build one of each scale...

I'm eager to see the 1/1 scale build

 

[BobsModels]

Gary

Good to hear you got it going. I have been out of commission until the last two weeks. My 1/8 got a sickness and has not run for several months. I finally got it figured out. I made a new electrode for the ignitor. In addition the governor system got out of wack somehow. I made some new springs and re loctited the timing gear on the shaft. I am at a 5 day show and it ran for 5 hours today. So I think it is back on track.

I look forward to seeing the 1/6 scale. You should start a thread on it, especially since you are building all of them.

I am working on a 1/4 scale hot air Rider. There are two of us running a thread over on the Model Engine Maker site.

http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php?topic=3441.0

Good Luck

Bob

 

[zneb]

Hi, Everyone Well I have started on the 1/6 Galloway and need help with the MIXER..The drawings don't seem complete as far as explaning how far to drill and actually how it's assembled or how it works.If anyone has more info on this I need some advise.I don't know how to start a new thread .I guess I need permission...Thanks Gary H

 

[gbritnell]

If you have the new drawings from Ministeam they show the mixer on sheet 8 with all the dimensions. As far as assembly goes the needle valve assembly screws in at an angle on one side. The check valve goes in from the top followed by the check valve limiter/intake tube bushing. Once the check valve is in place a light spring, washer and cotter pin is installed.
If you find anything missing on the drawing please let me know because I'm the one that updated the drawing for Ministeam.
gbritnell

 

[BobsModels]

Gary

Please do start a thread. Just go to the main page for engines from castings:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/forumdisplay.php?f=23


There is a button "New Thread" just above the thread list, just push it and you are off and running.

Bob