1/3 Scale Ford 289 Hi-Po

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I've never been a fan of mounting IC engines over wood boxes, but they're handy for hiding nuisances like big ignition coils. I typically use steel plates for display bases which are heavy and keep all the running accessories out in full view.

A 12" x 18" steel baseplate was prepared from some 3/8" material and a pair of motor mounts machined from what started out as 1-1/2" angle iron. An integral backing plate on the starboard side mount allowed positioning the starter solenoid up close to the starter. It had been a few years since I last welded, and some time was needed getting reacquainted with my tig torch. I really enjoy welding, but real world projects seem to have difficult or hard-to-reach joints that take away a lot of the fun.

The mounts were welded to the baseplate in opposite facing directions in order to clear the starter on the engine's starboard side and the oil filler plug on its port side. A fixture plate was used to keep the mounts aligned while being welded to the baseplate, but of course it made access to the joints difficult. My original two point mounting scheme looked doable in SolidWorks, but I wasn't comfortable with its mockup and added a last minute bolt-on support for the bell housing.

The steel radiator mounts fabricated earlier were used to position the radiator in front of the engine. I didn't do myself any favors with the minimal opening in the shroud for the fan, and the shroud's design didn't lend itself to easily being enlarged. I want the fan belts to be replaceable with the engine and radiator in place, and so the exact placement of the radiator became more important than I'd planned.

The fuel tank's location was pretty much fixed by the width of the baseplate and the location of the bell housing which in turn was fixed by the engine mounts. Drilling the mounting holes for the radiator brackets essentially locked down the locations of all three major components.

The weight of the assembly is already 45 pounds with nearly half that being the baseplate. A front lift disguised as a 289 HIPO badge was machined and bolted to the front of the baseplate to prevent using the radiator to lift the assembly.

A small console with switches for the starter, fuel pump, and ignition will probably be the last machined part for this build. After coming up with the mounts for the remaining regulator and ignition modules the baseplate can be painted. - Terry

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I've never been a fan of mounting IC engines over wood boxes, but they're handy for hiding nuisances like big ignition coils. I typically use steel plates for display bases which are heavy and keep all the running accessories out in full view.

A 12" x 18" steel baseplate was prepared from some 3/8" material and a pair of motor mounts machined from what started out as 1-1/2" angle iron. An integral backing plate on the starboard side mount allowed positioning the starter solenoid up close to the starter. It had been a few years since I last welded, and some time was needed getting reacquainted with my tig torch. I really enjoy welding, but real world projects seem to have difficult or hard-to-reach joints that take away a lot of the fun.

The mounts were welded to the baseplate in opposite facing directions in order to clear the starter on the engine's starboard side and the oil filler plug on its port side. A fixture plate was used to keep the mounts aligned while being welded to the baseplate, but of course it made access to the joints difficult. My original two point mounting scheme looked doable in SolidWorks, but I wasn't comfortable with its mockup and added a last minute bolt-on support for the bell housing.

The steel radiator mounts fabricated earlier were used to position the radiator in front of the engine. I didn't do myself any favors with the minimal opening in the shroud for the fan, and the shroud's design didn't lend itself to easily being enlarged. I want the fan belts to be replaceable with the engine and radiator in place, and so the exact placement of the radiator became more important than I'd planned.

The fuel tank's location was pretty much fixed by the width of the baseplate and the location of the bell housing which in turn was fixed by the engine mounts. Drilling the mounting holes for the radiator brackets essentially locked down the locations of all three major components.

The weight of the assembly is already 45 pounds with nearly half that being the baseplate. A front lift disguised as a 289 HIPO badge was machined and bolted to the front of the baseplate to prevent using the radiator to lift the assembly.

A small console with switches for the starter, fuel pump, and ignition will probably be the last machined part for this build. After coming up with the mounts for the remaining regulator and ignition modules the baseplate can be painted. - Terry

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In my builds I try to thoroughly test and fit each part as it's machined so final assembly can be assembly and not turn into a lot re-work. One 'file-to-fit' part left for final assembly was a two inch diameter bronze thrust washer whose purpose is to prevent ring gear wobble during starting. In addition to a precise thickness, both faces had to be counterbored. More time was spent making a mandrel to machine the part than was spent making the part itself.

A ring gear inspection cover bolts onto the lower portion of the bell housing and would normally be accessed by crawling under the car. On a static model it doesn't do much. The engine isn't mounted high enough above the baseplate to easily access its fasteners, and so I was tempted to leave it out. Its polished stainless surface looks great, and 304 wasn't easy to machine so a 9" hex wrench was fabricated to access the fasteners from under the front of the engine. A second shop-made tool holds the end of the crank while the front and rear crankshaft bolts are tightened.

The heavy gage wiring between the starter solenoid and starter motor was installed and the combination briefly tested. The spark plugs haven't yet been installed, and so it's not yet a certainty that the starter can actually crank the engine.

In order to make some progress while still working out the locations of the ignition and regulator modules, the baseplate which had begun to rust was painted. I've used the same Rustoleum Multi-color Texture paint on the display bases of several of my engines. This thicker than normal paint covers up deep grinding marks and will sometimes hide ugly welds. Although rather nasty looking before curing, it dries to a remarkably uniform and durable textured finish that's resistant to automotive fluids.

A small control panel containing a couple toggle switches and the starter button was machined from a chunk of aluminum. It was designed to be mounted at the rear of the engine under the starboard side exhaust. In addition to providing 12V battery power to the voltage regulator (which in turn will provide 6V to the ignition and fuel pump), the panel supplies starter current to the starter solenoid. Battery power comes into the front of the panel through a pair of 4mm banana jacks and leaves through three connectors at its rear. After bead blasting the panel was Gun Kote'd drab olive green. - Terry

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