whats everyone use?

[Speedy]

seeing all these wonderfull projects got me thinking what you guys are using to mill and lathe out the parts.


what are you using and what would you recommend me getting? I hear the bigger the better (only if they weren't so hard to find in Canada.)

 

[Brass_Machine]

Asking people what to use is like asking what kind of car they like.

Always best to get what you can afford... remember it isn't just the cost of the machine that you have to figure. You have to include the cost of all the tooling. Vices, end mills, collets, lathe tools, etc... Unless you get lucky and buy used that has some tooling.

Things to consider:

1) cost. what can you afford to spend and still leave money for tooling
2) room. do you have room for whatever machine you choose?
3) power. Is it 110 or 220? single phase or 3 phase??

Based on the above, I bought a sieg x2 mill and a 7x lathe. Thats what I had room for and could afford. The sieg machines are made in China and sold throughout the world under different names. I think Busybee in Canada carries them but I could be wrong.

They are very capable machines with a little tuning. I do wish I would have gotten a X3 or a rong fu clone. they are a little bigger.

Check this SITE for some reviews on the small stuff.

Good luck

Eric

 

[Tin Falcon]

Speedy:
here is my Shop
Like many I started with a 7x lathe and a seig x2 mill. but like BM stated include the price of tooling in the real cost of buying a lathe. a 7x typically has no extras while a 9x20 has a steady rest follow rest 4 jaw chuck etc. some lathes come with a qc tool holder a just about must have. so if you add the price of the added accessories to the cost of a 7x a 9 x 20 is only a few bucks more. What sized projects do you plan to do ?? If you need a lathe that can handle 1" / 25 mm stock through the head stock then you will need something bigger than a little hobby lathe.
Tin

 

[shred]

What sized projects do you plan to do ?? If you need a lathe that can handle 1" / 25 mm stock through the head stock then you will need something bigger than a little hobby lathe.
Tin

FWIW, the new Grizz 10x22 and some of the old 10" lathes can take 1" through the headstock.. They're a little bigger than the 9x20's, and probably above the 'little hobby class' lathe description. The 7x and 9x do seem to be extremely popular starter lathes, fairly low priced, with decent resale value should you want to trade up later on.

The key is really what size parts you want to work on. There's a table on the Sherline site that suggests that a 3x lathe-size-to-part-size ratio for typical parts is good for the easier-cutting metals, and 4x or more for the tougher ones. You can get by with much less, but on a regular basis it won't be as much fun.

 

[Loose nut]

As a rule of thumb, get the biggest you can afford and have space for and can manhandle into place, some people forget that bit, with in reason (no use buying a 14 x 40 if you live in an apartment). The larger the equipment is the sturdier it is and is generally better made and gives you the ability to scale up your ideas in the future.

On my old 9 x 20" parting off was always a pain in the *** because of the chatter and bending cutoff blades, they had to be thin because of the lack of power in the machine, on my new 13" lathe parting off is a pleasure, large blades, no chatter or twisting, the cut is straight and the finish good.
Even though I don't regularly need the capacity of the lathe it makes the smaller jobs easier, having power cross feed, geared headstock and a quick change gear box for threading are really nice features to have.

Now if you are into making really small models or maybe even watchmaking a larger lathe may not be for you, you have to take the RPM's that you will need into consideration, smaller lathes can usually run much faster.

It all comes down to personal choice and needs.

 

[Cedge]

Shred
I've been eyeballing the Grizzly 10x22 myself. What are your impressions so far? Is it worth the price of admission?

Steve

 

[Brass_Machine]

Shred
I've been eyeballing the Grizzly 10x22 myself. What are your impressions so far? Is it worth the price of admission?

Steve

Ditto. Thats my next lathe I think.

Eric

 

[Tin Falcon]

Speedy : I read your intro in the welcome section after i posted here.
I notice you are a high school student interested in RC vehicles. So I am thinking portability and limited budget are main factors. So the seig 7 x lathe and x-2 mill are likely prime candidates.
You may also want to look into the American made www.taigtools.com/ line and www.sherline.com/
If I were in your shoes I would likely be thinking about setting up a lathe and mill in plywood box with organized tool storage. well two boxes one for the mill one for the lathe. That way you could take your shop to a college dorm and it would be neat and secure when not in use. I have seen this done with the Taig and Sherline but the Seig is probably a little bit heavy for that kind of portability. The 7x lathe is 35 plus Kilos and the mill about 65 kilos. Plus tooling and tare weight of the box. Jut a few thoughts.
Tin

 

[bretk]

I RUN A SEIG X2 ( MICRO Mark ). Seig x2 mill is a great little mill for the money, it can be upgraded with a DRO, power feed and even CNC if you wish at a later date and as $$ allows.

As far as lathes, don't forget the old iron too. I have a 1934 south bend 9" x 36 that is a solid little lathe and replacement parts are readily available on ebay. While the grizzly 7,9,and 10 x lathes are very nice, there is something to be said about the don't build them like they used to phrase.

Welcome to the hobby!

-Bret

 

[Bernd]

Speedy,

Take a moment and think about what you want to make. From what I've seen from your intro you are interested in gas powered model vehicles. With that in mind I would look from something on the order of a 9" swing by 20" length lathe and something similar to a Grizzly mini-mill or smaller. Sherline would be an excellent choice. You don't need a 14" X 40" lathe to turn minuet parts. It's like plowing a vegtable garden with a four wheel drive tractor pulling a 14 point plow when all that would be needed would have been a rototiller.

Your on the right track asking what we use and what is good equipment. Just make sure when you decide that the machines are right for you.

Regards,
Bernd

 

[shred]

Shred
I've been eyeballing the Grizzly 10x22 myself. What are your impressions so far? Is it worth the price of admission?

Steve

I don't have the Grizzly version.. I have a 1930's 10" Sheldon that has very similar specifications, down to the tapers and spindle threads. I think it's a good size, chiefly because I have a lot of 1" round bar-ends about a foot to 18" long which work really well in it. The only thing better for me would be a similar-sized lathe that takes 5C collets-- the 4MT only takes up to 3C collets (~3/4" max).

 

[Speedy]

would this be something that would serve me well?

its a busy bee model B-244

guy claims it was just sitting in his garage, barly used (belive that, surface rust. jeez) is it cleanable?
he wants 750, but will consider less.

just starting reading the replys, when I found this forsale.

*edit*
seems like this lathe is a 9x20

 

[bentprop]

looks like a useful lathe for a hobbyist.I don't know what they go for in canada,so can't help you on the price.The surface rust can be polished off with a bit of elbow grease.(you get that at the drugstore :big.
A stand is also extra if you buy a new one,so figure that into the cost.
Hans.

 

[Mcgyver]

Speedy, only you can answer that. It's the tired old new chinese vs old iron blabber, i call it blabber because its not much of a debate, just a conveyance of opinions. My own view is quite bearish on the bee; that its not very good stuff and that if at possible you'd get tens times the value paying a little more an older quality lathe. You couldn't put a set of headstock bearings in a quality lathe for what some of these inexpensive ones sell for new. I don't know where you are in Canada but i see a lot old iron on kijiji these days. This opinion is formed from my knowledge base and expectations of what a machine tool needs to do and it may not be yours, so only you can tell if that lathe'll suit you well.

What I would say is universally good advice though is the read read read, the more you understand the more comfortable you'll be in making a decision.

 

[Alphawolf45]

Metalsworking is a long series of interesting events - buy this buy that, build this buy that, build this , buy , buy , buy....buying seems almost constant.
.
There no reason to approach a machine purchase as if buying it locks you into using only that machine and no other forever.. In fact most everybody who are serious about metalsworking , some years after their start they have traded to different machines or even simply acquired more machines..Multiple lathes and mills is handy lots of times.
.
That lathe looks like it is well capable of doing the projects that youre interested in and its fair price. I'd buy it...That thing is only about twice what your Miller welding helmet cost.

 

[TinkerJohn]

Good comments from everyone so far and I’ll include a few more.

Over the past years I’ve owned an Atlas 6” a Grizzly 12X36 and currently own a HF 7X12 mini lathe. I found every one of the models listed has some advantage(s) over any other one in the list.

For example, even though the Atlas and HF are essentially the same category of lathe, the perceived “better” quality was evident in the old Atlas. However, you can’t beat the HF for physical size and variable speed.

The 12X36 is clearly in a class by itself. It’s study, powerful and a pleasure to use. In fact, for my work (hobby/home shop) it never backed up from anything I threw its way. On the other had it cost almost 5 times what a mini cost and over double the cost of a 9x20. In addition, it’s HEAVY and because I am often transferred in my job, I finally just got tired of moving the thing. However, the truth is, the day after I sold it; I regretted it and someday hope get another one just like it.

What’s all this mean? I’ve had fun with all of them. Although my work will not hold a candle to many of the projects I’ve seen others on this board create. I have built things I did not think I could and in every case the machine was capable of doing *much* more than my ability.

Buy what you can afford and get the most for your money. Asian or domestic is not the real issue for me, the issue is doing something few other people can do…build something with their mind and their hands and enjoying the satisfaction of doing so. I agree with the common wisdom “almost any lathe is better than no lathe.” You can substitute milling machine, band saw, etc. in that statement.

Oh, by the way, the fun never ends. I am currently looking at the 9X20 or the 10X22. (I may just have enough room for one of them in my new place!)

Decisions…decisions…we all must make them! Good luck in making yours.

TinkerJohn

 

[Speedy]

good info guys,
like all other hobby's im sure I cant just own 1 lathe :big:
it seems like it will do what I need it to do, but I might think on it for a bit. Kijiji always has lathes pop up (wish I could say the same for hobby milling :'()

one thing im wondering, bentprop you mentioned I can polish up the rusty spots but would this contribute to some kind of tolerance issues?
and is there anything I should be worried about if I ever have to pic up a machine that looks rusty? (maybe check if it runs, move the axis, check for binding)

thanks for the help sofar guys :bow:

 

[CrewCab]

It's a real minefield for us Newbie's ain't it Speedy ............

I've just bought a second hand 9X20, paid a little more than the one you've been offered but as far as I can see it's pretty much "as new", apart from flaky paint,............. then again flaky paint seems standard anyway.

I've got it set up in the workshop this weekend and spent a bit of time checking all the adjustments etc, I'm pretty sure it's more than capable of out performing me 8) so I'm quite happy with a 9X20.

hth

Dave

 

[bentprop]

Speedy,I'm assuming the rust IS only surface rust,and not a pitted mess.
I use very fine steelwool,dipped in kerosene.This isn't going to take off any appreciable amount of metal .Don't use grinders,files or anything actually designed to remove metal,and you'll be safe.
Some people swear by the 3M scouring pads,but I haven't tried those myself.
If you're unsure,try it first on any non-critical area.
Hans.