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No pics of the process: finally decided to change the blade on my DeWalt PortaBand (still had the original blade from 2018! I don't use it a lot) as I saw some chipped teeth. Trying a Lennox Wolf-Band 10/14.

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I'll be interested to hear how that Wolf 10/14 does. I have been using the Wolf 24 and sometimes the teeth seem to load up (even when using some oil) and progress slows down. I use it for both steel and aluminum. That 10/14 ought to be pretty aggressive.
And my last blade broke the other day. I really miss it!
 
Hmmm.... I see the problem of Bandsaws. You need a few different blades for different uses. Changing them takes a few minutes so it is easy to be "lazy" and use the wrong blade (possibly expensive too?).
At the local model Engineering club we got rid of the bandsaw for that reason. Too many people were lazy and ruined blades from using the wrong blade, costing a fortune (it was a big bandsaw, not a toy!). So now people must supply their own hacksaws and blades!
I have a half-dozen Hacksaws, with different blades for different jobs. - Saves changing blades all the time, as the next job is rarely the same TPI as the previous one. But I have maybe between 6 and 10 different blades for (powered) jig saws, from "branch cutting- green wood" to fine -18tpi? - for mild steel sections.
For chamfering 1/2" aluminium for welding on an industrial job, the best circular saw blades were the finest pitch tungsten carbide tipped blades. But at 12 hours per day of use, a blade lasted only a couple of shifts before tips came off (braze failures) so we kept the local saw doctor in business for a year! - And changed power tool gearboxes monthly, armatures and bearings every 6~8 weeks.
So getting the right blade and pitch for the right job is really important for durability. But you know that I reckon...
K2
 
Making cleats for an 1/8th scale powerboat. Started off with 3/8 x 1/8 brass bar and 1/8 round. Soldered parts and finished with zinc plate. Only had 4 to make.
 

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