Water Cooled Webster

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I got the cleanup on the spokes done. Starting with a rotary file in a flex shaft then finished them up with some emery shoe shine style.

1730 File Cleanup (Medium).jpg


1740 Emery  Cleanup (Medium).jpg
 
I didn’t want to take them down to a polished finish. My hope is that once painted they will have the look of a casting.

I must say so far I’m very happy with the way these turned out.

Got to go . . . Word Cups going to start *beer*

1750 Cleaned up (Medium).jpg
 
I got started on the rims today. I had a piece of 3 ¾ seamless steel pipe with a 3/8 wall that looked promising so I took it out to the garage and cut it down on the 4x6.


1760 Outter Rims (Medium).jpg
 
The pipe has some sort of greenish coating (paint?) and it stinks under the heat of the cutter but with the window exhaust fan on high my wife didn’t notice so all is good. I don’t know exactly what this stuff is but it machines like butter. Whatever they use it for I’m guessing they have to thread the ends... Bored out the inside to 3 ½ “.580 deep to take the spokes and a ring.

1770 Bore (Medium).jpg
 
The step will become the ring that going to sandwich the spokes into the middle of the outer rim.

1780 Rim With Ring (Medium).jpg
 
I tried to put a lot of thought into the “order of operations” here to get as much as possible done in one setup. The spokes and the ring are a good press fit so I’m going to let the Loctite cure before I drill out and ream the centre hole and part it off. The recess in the middle will be blended into the outer rim later.

1790 Flywheel (Medium).jpg


1800 Flywheel (Medium).jpg
 
Once things cure up I drilled and reamed the centre hole to ½”. The hub will be made in two pieces screwed tougher with Loctite. I might pin it but I don’t think it will need it.

1810 Flywheels.jpg
 
In the Webster plans it says to pin the flywheel and drive gear to the shaft with roll pins. I just don’t like this idea. Searching around on the Internet I’ve seen people using a taper lock hub. I like this idea, I’ve got ½” to play with and basically it’s just a collet.

1815 Built Up Flywheel Collett.jpg
 
The cherry on top is that these have turned out to be about the straightest flywheels I’ve ever made with only 3 thou of run out and no visible wobble

1980 Flywheel collet (Medium).jpg


1960 Flywheel collet (Medium).jpg
 
I cut it down to size in the 4x6. I must get that “slide in slide out chip tray” Hat56 mentioned to me back in the Q&A mounted under this thing before my wife notices the floor. The “Cut Off This End” is because I didn’t bother square up that face.
Putting the rails in under the saw is the easy bit, Getting the roasting tray out of the miss's kitchen is the challenge.
 
Hi Hat !
Thanks for checking in. I was starting to think I was talking to myself out here. Actually getting the trays turned out to be easy. We were in Costco and they had a set on sale. All I had to do was talk about how some of the old ones where looking scratched up. Oh and pay for the new set. :wall:
But that expense DOES NOT come out of my hobby budget. Rof}
The forecast is for rain all day so I can’t do a lot of the regular home maintenance chores today. This engine is getting so close to the finish line I just can’t decide if I should play in the shop or the garage. The tray shouldn’t take more than a couple of hours scratch.gif
 
You are not posting in a vacuum. I am watching, along with many others. I know how you feel though. I post about all my builds, but about 2/3 of the way through the build, everybody who has something to say has already said it, and you start to wonder if people are looking at your stuff or not. You are doing an excellent job. The flywheels turned out beautiful---I however prefer a more heavy industrial look. That is the one really great thing about model engineering--You get to build to suit your own personal taste. You are doing a super job, keep up the good work.---Brian
 
Brian thank you that’s quite the compliment. Ya the little engine is starting to look a lot like my original CAD file other than it had straight spokes. Once I get some paint on it even if I can’t get it to run at lest it will look good as a display model.
Hell it’s a Webster It’s got to run.
 
Bmac--Here is an old post from 2010 that you may find interesting.
http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/th...e-redesigned-as-quot-Hit-and-Miss-quot-engine

Nice governor. I love engines with lots of stuff flailing around. I’ve read that post some time ago but it must have been before I joined the forum, didn’t recognise your name. I had toyed with the idea of putting a governor on this but it’s my first IC so I’m keeping all my mods cosmetic. This way if I want a hit and miss I have to make another one.
 
I got to spend most of the day hiding in the shop and got a lot done. I didn’t even have to make anything twice.
I love it when it rains.
The Webster plans call for a 48 tooth cam gear and a 24 tooth drive gear. I don’t have those and I’m not going to tool up to cut gears right now. Looking at the specifications what I need is one gear with an OD of .75 and another with an OD of 1.5 that will give me a 2 to 1 ratio.

What I have is a 36 tooth and an 18 tooth gear. I just have to machine them down and move the mounting position of the cam gear back just a bit.

The pic is from the Martin Sprocket & Gear web site. The one I have has no set screw. The hub on the 18 tooth gear is .625 with a .3125 bore so all that was needed was to turn the hub to .5” and thin the gear face down to size. I used a piece of 5/16 rod in the tail stock to help me keep it aligned when putting it into the chuck.

1990 18 tooth gear.jpg


2000 18 Tooth Gear (Medium).jpg
 
The 36 tooth has a 1 inch hub with a .375 bore

2010 38 Tooth Gear.jpg
 
Machined off the hub and silver soldered in a piece of hard 3/8 brass. Mounted it in the 4 jaw indicating off the now 3/8 hub and drilled and reamed it out to ,25” and trimmed it down to size.

2020 38 Tooth Gear.jpg


2040 Timeing Gears (Medium).jpg
 

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