Upshur's opposed twin engine

[pileskis]

I quite agree.
I looked at some of Brian's projects and it seemed like the tolerances were too tight in the parts that needed to move, it was really a problem with small sized parts.
As I said before, Brian, you need to standardize how you build engines, compression standards, tolerances.... That will help a lot
Both projects are the same if you cannot find and solve the exact problem.

Be careful saying too much about Brain’s methods! You might get a “bite me” from him!!
However, I agree 100% with your assessment.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Worked hard all day and didn't get much done!!---Some days are like that. I went across town today and bought some material---If you need any 5/16" drill rod, don't come to Canada to buy it. 36$ for a three foot length of it. I completely finished the baseplate, and half finished the front and rear plates today. I had enough 1/4" steel plate to make the front and rear plates from, but considering the price of #4-40 taps versus the cost of a bit of aluminum flatbar, I decided that it would be smarter to buy the aluminum. Tomorrow I'm off to a steam show with a friend of mine.

 

[petertha]

I went across town today and bought some material---If you need any 5/16" drill rod, don't come to Canada to buy it. 36$ for a three foot length of it.

5/16" O-1 is $9.72 CAD at KBC Canada & they generally aren't considered the cheapest supplier.

https://www.kbctools.ca/itemdetail/1-950-020

 

[timo_gross]

5/16" O-1 is $9.72 CAD at KBC Canada & they generally aren't considered the cheapest supplier.

https://www.kbctools.ca/itemdetail/1-950-020

Here 8mm drill rod is for a 114 mm length almost same price as the drill, more expensive than a cheap drill.
I think here "drill rod" is not same thing. https://www.suspt.com.tw/drill-blanks-b-102.html

 

[Jasonb]

A drill blank will be HSS, Drill rod, silver steel is ground carbon steel

In Europe it will be DIN 1.2210 or 115CrV3

UK £13GBP for 39" of 5/16" or £12GBP for 1m of 8mm

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Just got back from the steam museum at Puslinch, Ontario. A friend who I had done some machining for took me down for a tour. Many amazing large machines from a different era, very impressive to see. It was nice to get away from home for a day and do something different.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Does anybody know where to buy 1/4"-32 sparkplugs in Ontario, Canada? I like the Rimfire VR2 series sparkplug and I'd like to buy a pair of sparkplug boots as well.---Brian

 

[oldengineguy]

Brian: Used to live in Puslinch, Where is the Museum?
Colin

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Oldengineguy--I can't really tell you. I know it is south of Milton about 30 miles. I wasn't driving, but we went in a long gravel driveway thru a big stand of cedar trees to get to it. Try googling "Ontario Steam Heritage Museum".---Brian

 

[oldengineguy]

Brian; Thanks . They are at the other end of the road I lived on 40 years ago. They weren't there then.
Colin

 

[werowance]

Werowance--Where did you get the points that you soldered onto the brass strips?---Brian

i got them here https://www.cncengines.com/ic.html
i think Roy Shull?
got my spark plug there to

 

[werowance]

Worked hard all day and didn't get much done!!---Some days are like that. I went across town today and bought some material---If you need any 5/16" drill rod, don't come to Canada to buy it. 36$ for a three foot length of it. I completely finished the baseplate, and half finished the front and rear plates today. I had enough 1/4" steel plate to make the front and rear plates from, but considering the price of #4-40 taps versus the cost of a bit of aluminum flatbar, I decided that it would be smarter to buy the aluminum. Tomorrow I'm off to a steam show with a friend of mine.

on the top plates where the cylinder solders to, on mine i used some bronze bushings like what might be used in an excavator or back hoe boom. someone gave me a plastic jug full of them. i sawed them long ways and then heated / pried them out and once i got them started opening up enough i was able to put them in my press and press them into flat plate. heating them up several times. came out flat as a pancake and solder adheared to them really well. i used the safety solder not silver solder like my plans called for.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

After what seemed like an awful lot of drilling and tapping, I was able to assemble the crankcase body and "pose" the two cylinder assemblies in it. They are not soldered yet. ---I have to go across town and pick up some ball bearings and try to hunt down the silver solder that the plans call for.

 

[Jasonb]

Should not be too hard to find as it is the common mix for "Lead Free" soft solder 4% Silver and 96% Tin

 

[Brian Rupnow]

I checked thru one of my boxes of "Keep forever chit" and found three 1/4-32 sparkplugs. Good on me. I picked up my ball bearings for the crankshaft, fitted them with a piece of the 5/16" drill rod thru both bearings , and Loctited them into the crankshaft plates.--Also found a store that sells the special blend of silver solder that is called out in the plans, along with a small bottle of flux and an application brush. Tomorrow I will attempt to silver solder the cylinders to the appropriate crankcase plates.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

So--Today I built a crankshaft. I crazy glued the three plate sections together before drilling and reaming, but as is my usual luck with crazy glue, they came apart while in the vice being drilled. I was able to make a save however, and things worked out okay. Right now everything is in place, and I will wait 24 hours for the Loctite 638 to set up good before I drill and pin them. After the drilling and pinning is finished, I will cut out the pieces of the main crankshaft from between the webs.

 

[pileskis]

So--Today I built a crankshaft. I crazy glued the three plate sections together before drilling and reaming, but as is my usual luck with crazy glue, they came apart while in the vice being drilled. I was able to make a save however, and things worked out okay. Right now everything is in place, and I will wait 24 hours for the Loctite 638 to set up good before I drill and pin them. After the drilling and pinning is finished, I will cut out the pieces of the main crankshaft from between the webs.

Is that a chunk missing out of the left most crank cheek, on the bottom?? How is that going to be secure?
Why not remake it instead of finding out later that it’s giving you issues?

 

[Brian Rupnow]

It is indeed a part missing. Not enough to compromise the crankshaft when running the engine under no load conditions. I'll see how I feel about it tomorrow. Not a big deal to replace that part now, but would be a bugger to replace later on.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Okay--the bad crank web is out, the new crank web is in. All went well, now to decide if I'm going for pistons next or for con rods.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

So, my main work today was to make a couple of pretty pistons. All turned out well, I used up some more "shorts" out of my "extra material bin". There are a lot of set ups to making pistons. Nothing scary, just a lot of set ups. Good wife has just appeared and given me a list of things to do, so that's it for today.

.