un-work harden SS?

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chucketn

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Is there any way to un-work harden Stainless Steel? I have a piece that seems to work harden at the drop of your hat. I already made one piece from it but changed the design. The second on hardened up while drilling a hole. I need to tap the hole. Any way to save it?

Chuck
 
My experiences with 316 stainless taught me a few things.
1. When drilling, feed the drill as fast as practically possible.
2. Machining 316 SS justifies the existence of certain adult beverages.
3. Luckily the work hardened area is quite thin. If you can break through it, the job goes MUCH easier afterward.
4. Use 303 stainless when possible, it machines like butter compared to 304 or 316.

I have not ever tried to anneal stainless, but I suspect that heating to the color of cooked carrots then allowing the material to cool slowly may work for stainless just the same as for other steels.
 
For 300 series stainless, heat the part and hold between 1850 and 2050 degrees F, then rapidly cool (oil quench).

Advantages: removes the work-hardening. Also removes the damaged grain structure within the heat affected zone of welding operations, which will prevent intergranular corrosion cracking. Note that 304L and 316L are less susceptible to heat affected zone sensitization, but will still work-harden when plastically deformed (machined).

Disadvantage: parts can distort from the rapid cooling.
 
Is there any way to un-work harden Stainless Steel? I have a piece that seems to work harden at the drop of your hat. I already made one piece from it but changed the design. The second on hardened up while drilling a hole. I need to tap the hole. Any way to save it?

Chuck

I can't help with the annealing but can offer a couple points based on experience working stainless at work.

1. Slow on spindle speeds. You don't want to ever let a tool rub when machining stainless, plus you want to minimize heat build up.
2. While you want a slow spindle speed, feed aggressively. The idea here is to keep the tool cutting dee under the already hardened stainless. Further never stop until you hit depths stopping will almost certainly leave a work hardened bottom.
3. If this is a through hole try drilling for the back side if possible. The hardened area is very thin and the drill will break through from the back side. Use a good drill that isn't brittle as you can snap a drill bit fairly easy doing this. Even with a good drill bit follow all safety suggestions.
4. You may need to use a carbide drill to break through for the front side. Again go slow on the spindle speed and feed aggressively.
5. In your case if the hole is deep enough I'd try tapping the hole before I got too worked up over drilling deeper or annealing the part. The hard point is generally at the bottom of the hole. Use a good sharp tap. Ideally a HSS one with some sort of coating. A bottom that is worked hardened is really only a problem if the hole isn't deep enough.
6. Of course use plenty of cutting oil / lube for the above operations.
7. Sometimes you can get lucky by doing this. Say you have a 3/8" hole, take a carbide end mill or drill of say an 1/8" to 3/16" and try to break through the hardened sit puff in the center, then try again with your original but resharpened drill bit. The end mill of course wold need to be center cutting but ideally this would be a single flute drill for hard metals. In the long run it is better to drill stainless with a series of drill bits until You get to size. This will allow you to maintain a good feed rate as the drill bits become larger.
8. Lastly, some machinist will want to close their eyes at this one but in difficult situations I've used an end mill to effectively grind a hole through hard metals. The flutes will tend to chip and break off but if you keep going the carbide will defeat the hard steel. It is an ugly way to do things but if an EDM or the proper straight flute drills don't exist it can get the job done. I've only done this twice in my entire life, as a last resort, so I don't recommend it when other avenues exist. In both cases the parts where too hard too tap so this wasn't a goal, just looking for a simple through hole.
9. These sorts of problems are a good reason to build/buy an EDM machine. Use it in the same manner as described above, burn a pilot hole through and then try to clean up the hole with a conventional drill.

Of the above I've done the drill from the back side many times, it is great solution if you can layout and drill that hole accurately. Unfortunately that isn't always possible on many parts. In any event of the hole is deep enough just try tapping it for the intended threads.
 
Last time it happened to me I just heated to orange heat and let it cool slowly, then used a sharper drill bit!
 
Thanks for the wealth of information here. I tried drilling from the backside, and it worked. Fortunately, this time the part was symetrical, and I just set the vise stop and turned it over.

Chuck
 
When drilling SS I use Cobalt drills, They hold the edge much long than regular HSS, Sharp drills tend to not work harden the work. Cost only a bit more than HSS, PTD (Precision Twist Drill) is my go to brand.
 
Thanks for the wealth of information here. I tried drilling from the backside, and it worked. Fortunately, this time the part was symetrical, and I just set the vise stop and turned it over.

Chuck

Glad to hear that approach worked, it has saved my butt a few times.
 

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