Hi A Joe, I am. Most manufacturers do different things to limit cost, where the part of the market "outside limits" can be managed separately. But an engine for a common European production car is likely to be designed to wider limits, but only sold to function within the limits in the Sales Brochure. Maybe I would be in breach of Company confidentiality if I told you all the truth in print? So best if I just tell you what the Sales Brochure has published. Being fair, a commuter in Liverpool or Lisbon isn't going to see extreme temperatures, so the range I quoted is pretty much the Norm. (Ask Daimler Benz! I heard they make quite good cars?).
I do recall a tale of some engineers waiting a week in Finland for the weather to warm-up enough before they could do the correct cold-start tests on the cars, which were the cars they were driving in temperatures well below that.
Also, Most people used full-strength Glycol mix to keep from freezing, and ran the cars all day when cold, or had sump heaters to keep the engine above "glycol freezing" limits.
K2
Hmmmmmmmmmmm - - - - dunno if I should but I'm a turkey so here goes!
If one uses full strength glycol your 'liquid' will gel at some -20 odd C.
(Industrial heat exchangers were run at 20% glycol but they were NEVER shut off in winter. (They ran 24/7 most of the year in fact.))
If you use a 60% glycol 40% water mix you are still have a liquid at some -45C.
At colder than -45C your cooling liquid is only very lightly gelled so you won't have any issues.
(I haven't experience too much colder than -45C so would refer you to someone who runs equipment in the Arctic for colder temperatures.)
A 50-50% mix is rated to -38C.
A straight glycol will at 'only' -35C be stiff enough so that you will have issues - - - - even with a new car!!!!!!!!!!
If you don't respond in time you will need a new engine - - - that's worst case. Its easy to need new heads.
We were using 'block heaters' and such from the early 70s.
I do remember the battery being in the house and straw being burned under the air-cooled car engine in the mid-late 60s.
I do understand the auto executives thinking that they covered the norm - - - - one of the reasons their cars just weren't as attractive to the user when those
temperatures aren't the norm. And yes, I have had a Mercedes 220D diesel and starting it was less than enjoyable at even -30C never mind at colder - - - great car though even though the starting system sucked.
I have had equipment with block heater, engine oil heater, transmission oil heater, battery warmers (2 - 1 for each battery) and a battery charger. The block heater and oil heater were on when the tractor wasn't running and the rest was on over night so about 8 to 10 hours per day when I needed operation every day. This is the kind of stuff that those that haven't lived it find sorta weird. But I have gotten much better engine life than most of my peers and I prefer the lower costs and less of the large scale headaches.
Also was told by an owner that he had an employee that went to start 2 cats both with large Cummins engines (KTA1900 is the series or used to be) that used a lot of ether. He got them going all right but both engines were rebuilt before the winter was out. Don't think the employee saw the end of winter either. More commonly a parachute would be used and then a kerosene or propane heater run for likely 24 hours to warm up the equipment - - - - before starting! That's arctic starting guidelines.
