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Wow, I had to delete my entire post because Chuck's post was almost word for word of what I Just wrote, so I will just second what he said. :big:

Kel
 
cfellows said:
I usually try to get down to within .001 of finish size with the carbide tooling. Then I use a file at 70 -100 RPM to smooth away the carbide marks. Finally, I use a strip of 400 grit wet or dry sand paper at a very high RPM to get the finish OD.
When I turn the valve stem I take the diameter down a quarter inch section (or less) at a time, .020" per pass to get to a little over finish OD.

I do mine a little different but my valves were only .900 long. I turned down the entire length all the way to the head. At .094 I was getting about .0015 taper. I used some 325 grit to work the taper out and then take off the last few tenths with 600 grit. The 325 knocks all the tooling marks out and the 600 polishes like chrome. It's alot easier than I make it sound. I use a new insert because the taper gets bad with a dull cutter.

DSCN0771s.jpg

 
cfellows said:
My relationship with internal combustion engines may be coming to an end. I dusted off this project which I had started (and almost finished) a couple of years ago. Never had this many problems with an engine before!

Chuck
It will come together Chuck! I saw your engine in the FAME Gallery under "work in progress" and made a future reference note when I was developing intrest in I/C. I still hold that open crank bar stock twin in mind. Good luck with the sealing! Dave.
 

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