The effects of being out of tram on the mill

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Many people think that tramming up the mill is a mundane job, and something that doesn't need to be done regularly.

In fact, it can cause problems that you didn't realise was happening, and the larger the cutter you use, the more pronounced it becomes.

Rather than repeat myself here, I would suggest you read this post from where the relevent bit starts. I have tried to make it as easily understood as possible.

http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2083.msg22206#msg22206



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Thanks. Don't need it right now (because I don't have a mill yet) but I will soon. Bookmarked this one for future reference.
 
You fail to mention that if you are trying to hold a close tolerance hole pattern to an edge guess what it will be off and your holes will not be perpendicular to the surface. I have grown accustom to checking it everyday before I start anything. Same goes for checking to make sure vise is sitting straight on the table. These are command shop practices that are told to you over and over. So check the machine head often some time it doesn't take much to throw it out of whack.
 
You are perfectly correct Doc, and thank you for mentioning it.

I was just trying to explain why I didn't use a flycutter for that final operation, and it didn't occur to me to mention hole drilling as well.

Thanks

Bogs
 
I must admit, that during my apprenticeship, we weren't instructed on how to do this...

Now having a vertical mill, I realise how important this can be...

Thanks for the heads up.. :)
 
FWIW Always check that the vice jaw is still square after you tighten the part. Really check square of part.

It used to be taught to twist a head in different ways with different dia cutters to form a certain geometry.
 
jabezkin said:
FWIW Always check that the vice jaw is still square after you tighten the part. Really check square of part.

It used to be taught to twist a head in different ways with different dia cutters to form a certain geometry.

Yes you still do change head position to create unique part geometry but if you want a square to the world cut be sure to check the head. Specially if you are trying to say bore a cylinder block unless of coarse your block cylinder is at an angle then tram head off the top of you cylinder block. I'm just saying don't take for granted the head will stay square many things can happen to bump it out so if you are working on some thing critical check first not after your done and the parts don't fit. (we have a few blokes in the shop that will do that every time).
 
This post also serves as a reminder to check your drill press to see if the quill and spindle is perpendicular to the table. It might be "good enough" for wood working, but probably could be better.
 

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