THE 33?

[Deanofid]

You could solder it in, assuming the flywheel is steel, rather than aluminum. Can't quite tell which it is from the pics. A steel flywheel will turn blue, when you solder it. You might not want that.
There's nothing wrong with Locktite, for this purpose.

It looks very nice, Matt!

Dean

 

[Metal Butcher]

Haven't done anything with the brass center bushing. What do ya think solder or Loc-tite? Never soldered before, but there's a few other things to be soldered on this engine as per Brian's plans.

Glad to here you got the shop tidied up. Mine's got swarf from one end to the other. That's OK though, means I did something today I guess.

You pick the next candidate yet?

Matt

Hi Matt. If the flywheel is steel then acid core solder should work. If it were mine though I would use Loctite since the flywheel will need a lot of heat due to its mass. The bushing should be a light press fit to get a good concentric alignment. Easy enough to re-make the bush if needed. Pad the surfaces with paper so you don't mar-up those nice finished surfaces during the pressing, and also check the surfaces on your press for burrs or swarf that can cause damage.

I have it narrowed down to three choices. I'll know for sure tomorrow after I check my materials on hand. Its a tough choice this time around, as the list of Elmer's engines is growing smaller with every build.

-MB

 

[1hand]

It's a piece of 12L14 steel. Think I'm just going to try the loc-tite for now. I can always solder it later if need be. The 12L14 was really nice to machine. I got a couple extra chucks for a ball turner I want to build.

As for the crank rod and crank lobe, can I just loc-tite that also? Along with the valve rod ends?

 

[Metal Butcher]

It's a piece of 12L14 steel. Think I'm just going to try the loc-tite for now. I can always solder it later if need be. The 12L14 was really nice to machine. I got a couple extra chucks for a ball turner I want to build.

As for the crank rod and crank lobe, can I just loc-tite that also? Along with the valve rod ends?

Those parts have less contact area and its probably best to soft solder them. Their small brass (I think) pieces and won't take much heat at all. A low temperature soft solder should be strong enough. That's what I use and nothing of mine has come apart. Make the parts a close fit, flux lightly with rosin flux using the tip of a tooth pick, wipe up any excess, heat gently and pull then away the heat and lightly touch the intersection between the two parts. If the solder doesn't melt and flow in, pull it away and add a few seconds more heat, pull away and repeat the touch with the solder. Don't over heat the work piece, Usually when the flux starts to bubble a few more seconds will bring it up to the temperature that will melt the solder with a light touch to the joint.

-MB

 

[1hand]

Boy, You take a few days off, and your moved to page 2.

Good morning everyone!

Matt ;D

 

[Metal Butcher]

Boy, You take a few days off, and your moved to page 2.

Good morning everyone!

Matt ;D

Good morning to you.

Its time to head down to the shop and make a mess!

A few days off! Some guys have it made. ;D

-MB

 

[1hand]

Honey Do's days off. Got a bunch of stuff done around the house that's been put off for while. Which is good, when the boss is happy, so are the rest of us. ;D

Spent all day sorting bolts, and making labels with last years Christmas present from the kids. Handy little device to use. Least I can read whats in the drawers now. Much better than decoding my hand writing. ???

Matt

 

[1hand]

When I get to the soldering on this project, I found this whole setup on EBay for less than half of retail.
I had to buy the fire bricks locally.

Matt

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Matt---What the heck are you talking about?---Bushing in the flywheel???? Not in my plans!!!

 

[1hand]

Sorry Brian. I didn't want to drill through my pretty Flywheel........ :
I hope this is OK? ;D

Congrats on the work you've received Thm:
Matt

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Matt--I looked closely at the pics you put up of building the flywheel, and I'm not sure I understand why you need to put a bushing in it. Did you bore the center too large by mistake, or are you using the bushing to give an offset shoulder to put a set-screw in, thus avoiding the hole though the face of the flywheel?---In either case, use Loctite. Soldering is something that you do where you absolutely have to, but avoid if you can. Loctite works great when there is lots of "surface" between the parts being joined.

 

[1hand]

Just an offset for a setscrew. I Loc-tite the bushing to the steel flywheel. I wanted to give the flywheel a little flash with the brass center.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Okay, that makes sense. I look foreward to seeing the rest of your build.---Brian

 

[Deanofid]

Sorry Brian. I didn't want to drill through my pretty Flywheel........ :
I hope this is OK? ;D

Congrats on the work you've received Thm:
Matt

Aw heck, Matt. Build it however you like it. The way Brian did it wasn't all in Elmers plans either.

If you want to solder it, try practicing on something first. It's the classy way of doing things, but takes a little learnin'.

Got any new pics?

Dean

 

[1hand]

Dean,

Thanks, I didn't know where that conversation was going....... :hDe:


No progress yet, just rounding stuff up for when I get my prosthetic stuff done and off to the patten office. Not sure if I'll stick with the original scale or scale it up like I first thought. Its hard to enjoy something when you have such a hard time with the small parts.

Going to do some practicing with the new torch though. I did go to tech school for welding 18yrs ago, so I'm not too worried about figuring it out. Its just going to be different feeding filler with my prosthetic hook instead of with my hand. All the welding I do now at work is MIG, and usually with 1/2" plus material.

Matt

 

[Metal Butcher]

When I get to the soldering on this project, I found this whole setup on EBay for less than half of retail.
I had to buy the fire bricks locally.

Matt

That's a seriously nice looking torch outfit you got Matt.

It looks like a small size set up that would be perfect in my shop!

Can ya ship it to me for a closer look. I promise to send it back. ;D

When ya see good deals like that let me know before you buy, okay? :big:

-MB

 

[Deanofid]

That's a neat torch set you got, Matt. Might be a good topic for a review in the "Tools" section after you've had a chance to check it out.

Can you get this same set to use with refillable cylinders?

Dean

 

[1hand]

Ya its a kit Dean that comes with the disposable tank regulators.
http://www.weldfabulous.com/Smith-Little-Torch/Outfits/Smith-Little-Torch-23-1014-p4543737.html

Matt

 

[gbritnell]

Hi Matt, I bought a set of Little Torches quite a few years ago. I started off using it on my full sized tanks (oxygen and acetylene). The acetylene regulator would work fine for low pressures but the oxygen was a bear to get down that far. I finally bought the small regulator with gauge from Little Torches ($120 at the time) and now have it on my full sized tank. For model work that is one of the greatest tools I have. You can silver solder/braze tiny parts with ease. I'm sure you'll get alot of use from it.
gbritnell