Team build

[Jadecy]

the stock I have is .1870 just .0005 under 3/16" I will double cheak that in a little bit, I left the stock in the back seat of the car and the woman is at the store. . I thought it was 4140 tgp but its 1018 cr.

Sounds good. Please mic it and give me the diameter when you get a chance.

 

[Jadecy]

I made 6 brass blocks tonight ;D. Hopefully I'll get to do some more this weekend. Are we going to have a seperate progress picture thread? I took a few pictures and will try to keep a record of each step.

 

[Brass_Machine]

I made 6 brass blocks tonight ;D. Hopefully I'll get to do some more this weekend. Are we going to have a seperate progress picture thread? I took a few pictures and will try to keep a record of each step.

Jadecy... go ahead and start a new thread on your progress.

Eric

 

[tattoomike68]

Sounds good. Please mic it and give me the diameter when you get a chance.

Its in the .1870" - .1865" range I brought my Mitatoyo mics inside for the winter and cant find them I do have a cheapy thats OK but hard to trust after using the good stuff.

 

[deere_x475guy]

Tin I have the pipe plates completed and am going to make the bending die and follow plate so I can bend the pipe. I think it's best if I bend the pipe and cut it long for both ends and the builder does the soldering for final fit up. The plans say to do this and what I am concerned about is not getting a perfect length and have it to short on both ends. What do you and everyone else think about doing it this way?

 

[Tin Falcon]

Bob:
It makes a little more work for assembly but it is IMHO the best way to go. I would not want you to go to all that work and have them all too short. good thinking!!(I know you just want to get out of the silver soldering LOL)
Tin
AKA
Jim

 

[deere_x475guy]

HAHA...I knew I couldn't fool you..

 

[Powder keg]

I'm still waiting for my material

Hopefully it'll be here soon,

Wes

 

[Jadecy]

I got a good start on my six bearing blocks. I will try to post some pictures tonight. The base mount holes are drilled and tapped, the crank hole is drilled and reamed, and all the front holes are drilled and the center hole is tapped for the valve post.

I got to use my DRO SDM (Subdatum) feature again. I love that feature now that I learned how to use it.

I was hoping to get more done tonight but several items I ordered are back ordered (they didn't tell me last week ) so I went ahead and ordered them from McMaster Carr (ie. #4-40 bottoming tap, #2-56 tap, and some good drill bits for the tap holes). I should have thos tomorrow. McMaster Carr usually takes 1 day to get stuff to me.

I had another bad experience with my TiN coated bits from Horrible Freight! I was drilling a test hole in a scrap piece of brass when the 1/16" bit shattered into several pieces. I wasn't forcing the bit or anything extraordinary. I've had this happen with several of the other bits in this set before. I grabbed my el-cheapo HSS 1/16 bit and drilled the 1/16" holes in the test piece and the bearing blocks with no problem. You think I would learn from my experience with another bit from the same set on a different project! :

 

[Powder keg]

Yahoo!!! My metal arrived) Now I can start makin chips)

Wes

 

[deere_x475guy]

I got to use my DRO SDM (Subdatum) feature again. I love that feature now that I learned how to use it.

I use that feature quit a bit and it sure is a time saver both in lessening mistakes and eliminating having to repeatidly reentering coordinates.

This evening I made another tangential form tool for the 1/8" die I need to bend the pipe. If all goes well I will have the pipe all bent and cut.))....making progress ;D

 

[joe d]

Decided to do the easy but boring bit first: just finished cutting down 28 2-56 machine screws from 3/8" ... Jadecy: am putting 14 in the mail to you tomorrow morning, this leaves you with 2 to lose on the shop floor! (I'll probably lose 2, so you should too... ;D)

Cheers, Joe

 

[Brass_Machine]

...

I got to use my DRO SDM (Subdatum) feature again. I love that feature now that I learned how to use it.
...

Could you start another thread telling me what this is and how to use it??

Eric

 

[deere_x475guy]

Hi Eric, I won't be in the shop this evening to take pics but I think I can explain why it's used and how to use it on my DRO. Many Dros' have this feature and some of them call it "presets" instead of "SDM". After I get some dinner I will create a post in Tip and Tricks area.

 

[Powder keg]

I have the pillars redrawn to make them pretty. I'll make a form tool and a couple other things so I can make them fairly easy. An older gentleman gave me some good tips on these. I think his ideas will work great! I'll post the info on my form tool for sure)

Later, Wes

 

[deere_x475guy]

Hey Wes looking forward to the pics. And I just wonder who that "older gentleman" could be.)

 

[Powder keg]

I'll print the drawing and scan it into my puter. The old guy is a guy that works for me. He's about to retire again. (third time)

Wes

 

[zeusrekning]

I ordered my drill rod for the wrist pins today. It is .0625" I also ordered a .0635 reamer for the wrist pin hole in the piston. Should this be okay?
Tim

 

[BobWarfield]

I got looking at how small these parts really are and decided it was time to quit procrastinating: I need to get my 5C collet chuck mounted on the lathe before I go any further.

Yes, I could make the flywheels easily without it, but that connecting rod needs a little better workholding than my grungy 3-jaw that came with the lathe. I suspect it'll be handy since I already have the 5c collet fixtures for the mill anyway.

So, I'm going to get that baby mounted first. Will post a small thread on the process when I get 'er done.

Best,

BW

 

[Jadecy]

I ordered my drill rod for the wrist pins today. It is .0625" I also ordered a .0635 reamer for the wrist pin hole in the piston. Should this be okay?
Tim

You'll have to do a test hole to see how the fit turns out. When using a chucking reamer i typically use one that is .001 undersize. It is probably because my reamers are cheap and they have a little runout but the hole usually comes out right on the money. A hand reamer is a different story so depending on which you are doing and the quality of the reamer it may be fine. No way to tell for sure until you try it. I would grab a piece of scrap and do a test.