Tapping device for mill & lathe

[putputman]

This might be a good project for those who are just starting in the trade or hobby. My mentor had me make this tapping tool over 45 years ago and I still use it very often. It is a tapping tool that can be used in the mill or lathe.

Most taps are broken by bending rather than torque. This tool supports the tap so it can't be bent. I am not saying I haven't broken taps, but I can count on one hand the number of taps I have broken when using this tool. Most of the taps I have broken are done with a t-handle tapping tool.

The 1/4 inch dowel pin is chucked in the mill or lathe and the tapping tool is a slip fit on the tap inserts. On the mill you turn the tap in by hand. In the lathe you can turn the tap by hand or use power & hold the tapping tool from turning. Either way, you have a lot of feel for the torque. On real small taps I remove the handle & hold the knurled knob.

The tool consists of a hand or knob and 4 inserts. The inserts are held in place with a single set screw.

The smallest insert covers taps from 0-80 to 6-32 in both standard & fine threads. The other 3 are for 8-32, 10-32, & 1/4-20 & their equivalents in coarse threads.

I will put some prints in the download section for anyone that might be interested in making this tool.

 

[lugnut]

Now look what you've gone and done! I have another tool to build ;D
Mel

 

[jack404]

A week after i start doing a Oz verion of Mr. Ishimura stand ( thanks to crankshafter)

http://homepage3.nifty.com/amigos/tapping_jig/tapping_stand-e.htm

now this!!

hmmm hybred??

Go Arv

cheers

jack

 

[baldrocker]

Putputman dont mean to hijack your thread.

Jack.
I made that conversion also.I found that it is better shorten the column and
dispense with the worktable and use the base plate only, also mine is powered
by a 24v scrapyard motor. Height adjustment by allen screw in existing hole in
rear of head bearing on column. Thinking that a slippy belt may overcome
any tendency to over torque
BR

 

[jack404]

BR

yeah good thinkin there eh,

i'm now thinking that with the stand as our oriental inspiration had it but without the worktable as you say but with PPM's rig... i've got clever with springs and threads of late so have my own idea for feed and other things
but they work right in with PPM's plan above.

you could make 4- as many as you wanted of the collars/holders, one for each of your most common used taps ( me, i use 3 or 4 over and over and over)

i also like PPM's handles being lower. for the smaller stuff i intend to do later , the feedback from the handles lower like PPM has his compared to the one mr. Ishimura has on top, well it think that would be better suited than on top.

PPM sorry to hijack ya thread mate

and for stealin part of your ideas for meself eh. not really but.. ;D

cheers

jack

 

[stevehuckss396]

I will put some prints in the download section for anyone that might be interested in making this tool.

Thank you, I am very interested. I do alot of tapping in the 000-120 to 6-32 range. Mostly 0-80 & 2-56 so this will be a nice addition to the tool box.

Thanks again for the drawings!

Steve

 

[mklotz]

For my take on this problem, take a look at reply #14 in the following thread:

http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=85.msg1594#msg1594

It's been my experience that, for the tiniest taps, having a smaller diameter holder helps to limit the torque one can apply, thus minimizing breakage.

Also, if you use self-made "collets" as described in that response, you avoid the need to tap each tap holder separately.

 

[putputman]

Not a problem Jack. Glad you could use a piece of it. I have never seen a project yet that had only one solution.

Steve, I have taps down to 0-80, but I have never tapped anything under 2-56. At my age I am building bigger rather than smaller. I really admire some of the work that you have done.

I just hope some of these people just getting into the modeling will take time to make some sort of tapping device, whether it is my design or Marv's or whoever, so they have it when they need it. Taps are getting expensive but ruining a casting or a piece you have spent many hours on can be a lot more expensive than the cost of the tap.