Update. Made a new slide valve to replace the original. Still chasing down a clunk. The original crank disk has some runout which I suspect is part of the problem. The bearings are poured and worn which is probably contributing to the annoying noise. No gaskets.
Steam engine shaped object.
- Thread starter DJoksch
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Simply: It doesn't matter, but the steam supply line is hotter so the steam oil is partly vaporised or lower viscosity. But the engine demand causes oscillations in pressure of the supply line anyway, so these oscillations contribute to the various factors that cause the oil to come out of the lubricator - replaced by steam (which condenses to displace oil). So "without valves", the displacement lubricator actually "pumps" the oil out of the lubricator. Some very complex gas modelling software should be able to model this. All you need to know is that providing there is a pumping oscillation of the steam where the lubricator is connected, then you'll get oil. So the valve chest (inlet side, NOT exhaust!) is good.
Don't worry about the slide getting oil everywhere. Oil will creep across all surfaces for lubrication. In the cylinder, vaporised oil (if the steam is hot enough) actually condenses before the steam forming microscopic droplets (aerosols) that then form nuclei for the formation of the water droplets that form as the steam is cooled by expansion in the cylinder (losing heat as work on the piston). The oil droplets also condense on cylinder walls, etc. So the Wet steam is actually a water-oil emulsion, made in the cylinders. Good to wash this out after a steaming session with liberal WD40 before lubricating the engine completely. I use motor 7W30 engine oil (as it has good corrosion inhibitors) for leaving the engine ready for another day. (Oil technology is a science, not a "crude" subject! - The use of appropriate oils is good engineering). But only use STEAM OIL in the lubricator. - The engine oil will soon be displaced upon pre-steaming barring with steam to warm the cylinders, when the displacement lubricator is priming (heating-up and pressurising) before supplying oil.
K2
Don't worry about the slide getting oil everywhere. Oil will creep across all surfaces for lubrication. In the cylinder, vaporised oil (if the steam is hot enough) actually condenses before the steam forming microscopic droplets (aerosols) that then form nuclei for the formation of the water droplets that form as the steam is cooled by expansion in the cylinder (losing heat as work on the piston). The oil droplets also condense on cylinder walls, etc. So the Wet steam is actually a water-oil emulsion, made in the cylinders. Good to wash this out after a steaming session with liberal WD40 before lubricating the engine completely. I use motor 7W30 engine oil (as it has good corrosion inhibitors) for leaving the engine ready for another day. (Oil technology is a science, not a "crude" subject! - The use of appropriate oils is good engineering). But only use STEAM OIL in the lubricator. - The engine oil will soon be displaced upon pre-steaming barring with steam to warm the cylinders, when the displacement lubricator is priming (heating-up and pressurising) before supplying oil.
K2
Attached directly to the steam chest, it will work fine. In theory the steam flow in a tee arrangement will help to spread oil around the steam chest.
On the other hand, direct attachment may reduce the rate at which condensation occurs, meaning that the lubricator is less likely to disgorge its contents too fast. (In the unlikely event that you don't know: it will not work on air.)
On the other hand, direct attachment may reduce the rate at which condensation occurs, meaning that the lubricator is less likely to disgorge its contents too fast. (In the unlikely event that you don't know: it will not work on air.)
I’m using my old clock staking tool to make holes in the bands. I ran out of little screws to attach them however, the are scheduled to arrive today so I should be able finish up tomorrow. That brings me back to coming up with a common connection from the engines to the boiler. I found an 1/8” quick disconnect, but it is not going to look right.
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Please be very careful with connections not designed for steam. Any air-line connectors are likely to have elastomer components that will cook hard with the steam temperature, and consequently leak. A catastrophic failure can give you a scalding hot blast instantly. You will feel enough pain to regret the choice of fittings.
I ALWAYS use proper copper pressure pipework with olives for joints. After superheat in the steam, my polished pipes turn some lovely colours, and on some boilers the cotton string pipework lagging chars.... (When wrapped tightly around the pipework then painted with white emulsion paint it simulates the appearance of asbestos - which I do not use!).
DO NOT USE RUBBER OR PLASTIC HOSE! That is just asking for trouble with burst steam pipes.
STEAM AT PRESSURE FOR ENGINES IS DANGEROUS IF NOT MANAGED PROPERLY. DO THE RIGHT THING AND USE PROPERLY METAL PRESSURE PIPEWORK AND SECURELY BOLTED JOINTS. THEY COST MONEY, BUT IT IS YOUR FLESH THAT WILL BE COOKED IF YOU GET IT WRONG. I HAVE SEEN RESULTS OF SCALDING. THE FLESH DOES NOT GROW BACK. I. E. PERMANENTLY DESTROYED.
Remember, you will not see the jet of steam that kills an eye. You will hear the loud scream before you know you are screaming. So don't risk anything. You only see the fuzzy white cloud after it has cooled considerably.
So please take care, you know it makes sense.
K2
I ALWAYS use proper copper pressure pipework with olives for joints. After superheat in the steam, my polished pipes turn some lovely colours, and on some boilers the cotton string pipework lagging chars.... (When wrapped tightly around the pipework then painted with white emulsion paint it simulates the appearance of asbestos - which I do not use!).
DO NOT USE RUBBER OR PLASTIC HOSE! That is just asking for trouble with burst steam pipes.
STEAM AT PRESSURE FOR ENGINES IS DANGEROUS IF NOT MANAGED PROPERLY. DO THE RIGHT THING AND USE PROPERLY METAL PRESSURE PIPEWORK AND SECURELY BOLTED JOINTS. THEY COST MONEY, BUT IT IS YOUR FLESH THAT WILL BE COOKED IF YOU GET IT WRONG. I HAVE SEEN RESULTS OF SCALDING. THE FLESH DOES NOT GROW BACK. I. E. PERMANENTLY DESTROYED.
Remember, you will not see the jet of steam that kills an eye. You will hear the loud scream before you know you are screaming. So don't risk anything. You only see the fuzzy white cloud after it has cooled considerably.
So please take care, you know it makes sense.
K2
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I abandoned the quick disconnect idea after your last post. There is a specialty hose business here in town, but any flex hose that could handle steam was not very flexible and would not look nice. I saw a system using hard line to a flange and another to a union.
Doug, You can see the steam-pipe from the top of this boiler to the engine - wrapped in white string.it is 1/8" (bore) copper gas pipe (3/16" O.D.) for Butane gas installations. Can buy (relatively cheaply) brake pipe at 5mm here in the UK that works just as well. The fittings are "1/8" BSP". Not sure what the equivalent US size would be... You'll need to look it up on't wwweb.
N.B. The gas hose is NO GOOD for steam - as the rubber cannot take the TEMPERATURE. It is 5mm (bore) proprietary LPG hose that is capable of 6bar max. working pressure, but Propane and butane cannot do such pressure. Looks ugly, but that is needed for an insurance company to cover your losses when the workshop burns down...
If relighting after a flame-out (a gust of wind past the air-hole for the burner will do that) I can get a "gas explosion" in the boiler that produces a jet of flame 12" long out of the boiler door, past my hand and the wand-lighter. I wear leather gloves because it saves the smell of burning hair, sore skin and tenderness. I still jump with the WOOF! - But it is very rare.
Take care, so you can keep writing and we can continue to enjoy your company. (Aren't I selfish!).
K2
N.B. The gas hose is NO GOOD for steam - as the rubber cannot take the TEMPERATURE. It is 5mm (bore) proprietary LPG hose that is capable of 6bar max. working pressure, but Propane and butane cannot do such pressure. Looks ugly, but that is needed for an insurance company to cover your losses when the workshop burns down...
If relighting after a flame-out (a gust of wind past the air-hole for the burner will do that) I can get a "gas explosion" in the boiler that produces a jet of flame 12" long out of the boiler door, past my hand and the wand-lighter. I wear leather gloves because it saves the smell of burning hair, sore skin and tenderness. I still jump with the WOOF! - But it is very rare.
Take care, so you can keep writing and we can continue to enjoy your company. (Aren't I selfish!).
K2
Doug, You Granddad's Engine is looking "tops"! - Well done! He will be smiling from his resting place.
All you need now is the boiler, water pump, and something for the engine to drive...
A really good effort!
I am curious about the valve linkage. It looks like it picks- up motion from the cross-head to a large crank outboard of the cross-head slides. Then, presumably, that crank rotates a shaft that has a bell-crank to set the motion 90 (?) degrees out-of-phase from the main piston motion. This bell crank then drives a lever or something to drive the valve-rod? - All this is hidden inside the cross-head slide space so hidden from view on the photos.
Please can you explain what's what? Do you have a diagram?
Ta,
K2.
All you need now is the boiler, water pump, and something for the engine to drive...
A really good effort!
I am curious about the valve linkage. It looks like it picks- up motion from the cross-head to a large crank outboard of the cross-head slides. Then, presumably, that crank rotates a shaft that has a bell-crank to set the motion 90 (?) degrees out-of-phase from the main piston motion. This bell crank then drives a lever or something to drive the valve-rod? - All this is hidden inside the cross-head slide space so hidden from view on the photos.
Please can you explain what's what? Do you have a diagram?
Ta,
K2.
I'm wrong about the valve linkage. ANother photo shows the take-off from the main crank-pin extension. "as per loco configurations"".
K2
K2
The cylinder was the real project. Originally, the steam ports were poured lead. A metal thermometer base was bent into a square to hold the slide valve and rod. Unfortunately, I hit it with heat and the whole steam chest fell off in a glob. Under the lead was a crude filed flattish surface with hand drilled holes on either end. My original plan was just to make it run. A ring around the cylinder seals two exhaust port. I think this might have been a Diesel engine.
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Nice paint job. What paint did you use?
To paint the green Clarkson engine I used auto paint with an activator. The auto paint is brushable which was nice, but it cost me $80. For this project, I simply used an etching primer and Rust-oleum Burgundy. The spray can Burgundy had a rich tone and went on surprisingly well.
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Beautiful!
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That runs very well on steam. I even think I like it better running on steam.
You have done a good job with restoring this engine. I think your choice of paint color really enhances the look of it.
--ShopShoe
You have done a good job with restoring this engine. I think your choice of paint color really enhances the look of it.
--ShopShoe
I‘m going to install cylinder drain valves and oil cups to make start up a little easier. I had to warm up the engine before letting it go. The 3 x 6.5 inch boiler keeps up nicely. I had a lot of help with the boiler build.
