Some of my self-made machines.

[Bruno]

Don't be surprised that it now only says “Bruno” under my avatar. That's one and the same person. I have two accounts in this forum.

Many problems with the forum. But that's a completely different story.


But now I want to continue here.

A few decades ago I got carried away and built some steam pumps for 5 inch locomotives. The first campaign resulted in 14 pumps, all of which were gradually sold. A few years later I was again asked to make some pumps.
This series consisted of a total of 7 pumps of the same design. They are also all gone.
A few years ago, that was right before the coronavirus pandemic, two club members asked me to make two larger pumps for 7.1/4 inch locomotives. At first I wanted to turn them down, because it is a lot of work.
I then agreed and made two symmetrical pumps.

 

[Bruno]

Inspired by an article in a forum, I made a drilling and boring head for my Wabeco milling machine.
The shank has a Morse taper 2 and is a purchased part.
I made the head from the existing material cross-sections that I had in my box of material scraps. The tool holder has a diameter of 8 mm.

 

[SmithDoor]

Hello guys and girls.
I had some problems logging back into this forum, these problems seem to have been resolved as far as I can tell so far.
So I can continue.
I installed a second homepage a few years ago. It is only the Bosch-Combi system from the late 50s until about the end of the 70s of the last century.
The address is: https://bosch-combi.de/
I have two of these lathes. Unfortunately, the cross slide was missing from the last machine I bought, which I reproduced from the original slide.
You can find more information on the page.

I will post some pictures here.

Is that your only lathe? ​

Looks great for everything you are doing the lathe

Dave

 

[Bruno]

More than 20 years ago I planned to build a Quorn universal grinding machine. I asked a friend to get me some information and a price list. After successfully studying the price list, it disappeared into the back of a drawer. The price was beyond my budget at the time.
Many years later, I found plans by J.B.D. Willis on the Internet. He built his universal grinding machine ‘Bonelle’ according to the plans of the Quorn. These plans lay in a drawer for several years. At the beginning of 2007, these plans fell into my hands again and I told friends about my plans to build this machine.
I had some very good friends, who have unfortunately passed away in the meantime, who were very helpful in procuring the materials. One friend worked in the materials warehouse of a very well-known glass manufacturer. There he had access to a thick grey cast iron shaft lying in the scrap. He was able to cut out the necessary parts for me from this shaft. The other friend was able to get me chrome-plated shafts from hydraulic cylinders.
So I started work in August 2007.

Shortly before Christmas, the machine's shell was ready and the first grinding tasks could already be completed.
I had spent almost every spare minute in my workshop working on the ‘Bonelle’.

 

[Bruno]

However, the machine was far from finished. Over the years, a few more accessories were added.
The machine was also treated with paint.
I got a lot of them from the book on the Quorn by Prof D.H. Chaddock.
More pictures will follow.

 

[Bruno Mueller]

Hurrayaaa , I'm back.
After my password was reset, I was able to log in here with this name again.

 

[Bruno Mueller]

The Bosch Combi machines are not my only lathes. I mainly work with my CT 920 from Taiwan. Occasionally I also use an Emco Unimat DB 200 for fine work. The two Bosch lathes are only shown at exhibitions.

 

[Richard Hed]

Inspired by an article in a forum, I made a drilling and boring head for my Wabeco milling machine.
The shank has a Morse taper 2 and is a purchased part.
I made the head from the existing material cross-sections that I had in my box of material scraps. The tool holder has a diameter of 8 mm.

I want to make one or these. Have any advice?

 

[Bruno]

Yes, make it yourself or buy it from the Chinaman. ;-))

What's the problem?
Start with the lower part, the dimensions are relatively unimportant. Then make the top to match. Then screw in the MT 2 cone and secure with Loctite 638. Place everything in the lathe and turn to zero position.
Unfortunately, I cannot provide you with any drawings for copyright reasons.

 

[Richard Hed]

Yes, make it yourself or buy it from the Chinaman. ;-))

What's the problem?
Start with the lower part, the dimensions are relatively unimportant. Then make the top to match. Then screw in the MT 2 cone and secure with Loctite 638. Place everything in the lathe and turn to zero position.

Good advice, have every intention of building it myself. Could save time by buying it, but where's the fun in that?

 

[timo_gross]

However, the machine was far from finished. Over the years, a few more accessories were added.
The machine was also treated with paint.
I got a lot of them from the book on the Quorn by Prof D.H. Chaddock.
More pictures will follow.

I would love to make a toolgrinder, that I do not need . Some day I might do it.

I started making a drill grinding jig last year, I am stuck with the spindle.
To put the grinding hub directly on the motor, is probably not very stiff, and the bearings might not be good for axial load. (I already bought a small motor with an 8 mm shaft)

To make a half decent spindle I am a bit concerned that I am not able to do it right.

How did you make the grinding spindle?

I was even thinking of just buying one. It is not really cheap. (serious money)
https://en.matchling-tooling.com/products_detail_701.htm

Does your spindle have separate grinding hubs, to be able to change the grinding wheels?

Maybe it is not even as critical as I think?

The dust extraction with the transparent cover is really a good idea, I am thinking of copying it.

 

[GreenTwin]

Bruno, glad you are back, again.
So sorry for the log-in problems.
Modern technology.................great WHEN it works................

Some fantastic builds you have there, and also some very nice machine tools.
Thanks much for posting these photos !
.

 

[GreenTwin]

I found some Westinghouse drawings.
I always wanted to make a compound Westinghouse compressor.
I don't need it for anything, but it sure would be neat to have.

.

 

[SmithDoor]

The Bosch Combi machines are not my only lathes. I mainly work with my CT 920 from Taiwan. Occasionally I also use an Emco Unimat DB 200 for fine work. The two Bosch lathes are only shown at exhibitions.

Good looking equipment.

Dave

 

[Bruno Mueller]

# Timo_Gross#

I made the grinding spindle of the ‘Bonelle’ according to Mr Willis' drawings. It's not rocket science. It is basically the same spindle design as the Quorn. Only the dimensions of the bearings and the outer diameter are different.
Each grinding disc has its own clamping shaft. After initial assembly, the grinding disc is removed once to ensure that the axial run-out is correct.
The closed covers with the dust extraction system are only intended for dressing the grinding wheels.
Here is a holder for thin sharpening pins.
The holder corresponds to the holder for the grinding discs, without a clamping flange. The sharpening pins are glued into their holder with shellac. Originally they were sharpening files. I disassembled them into three parts

 

[Bruno Mueller]

For the "Bonelle", I have used different drive discs. Higher speeds are required for the small sharpening pins.
The speed range is from approx. 4300 rpm to approx. 10000 rpm.

The first image approx. 4300 rpm
The second image approx. 6900 rpm.
The third image approx. 10000 rpm.

The belt cover only fits at the lowest speed.

 

[Bruno Mueller]

Now for something completely different.
Two vices from the time I qualified as a mechanic.
I was allowed to take both devices with me after my training.
These were the few parts that had any real utility potential. Everything else were training pieces that ended up in the rubbish bin after completion.
The little vice has been gathering dust in the back corner of my cabinet for many decades and was recently engraved with my current logo.

 

[Bruno Mueller]

#Timo_Gross#
Pumps are interesting, is it true that the pumps are more diffcult to make than an engine?
###


I would like to answer your question of 11 Feb.

It really isn't easy to build a functional steam pump on a small scale.
You can reduce all the dimensions to a minimum.
But the problem is the physical properties of water and vapour.
The elements (water, earth, air, fire) cannot be reduced in scale.
You have to keep certain cross-sections of boreholes so that the function is given.
If the pipe cross-section is too small, the flow resistance of the elements becomes so great that they can no longer pass through the pipes.
A typical example are the steam boilers of model locomotives.
While the original boilers have hundreds of smoke pipes, a scaled-down boiler with hundreds of thin smoke pipes no longer works. The flue gases can no longer pass through these tubes.

It is similar with the small pumps.
I have found that a pipe cross-section in the vapour section is at a minimum of approx. 1 mm Ø.
In the water section, the minimum cross-section is approx. 2 mm Ø.
You have to make compromises.

 

[Bruno Mueller]

Good advice, have every intention of building it myself. Could save time by buying it, but where's the fun in that?

The advantage of the Chinese man is that the tool is available more quickly.

But there is also a disadvantage.
The fun of manufacturing is completely lost.

 

[Bruno Mueller]

A few years ago I had a model steam pump on my desk for repair. This pump was not one from my workshop.
The pump no longer made any movement.
After dismantling it into its individual parts, it quickly became clear where the problem lay.
This pump has a modified P-control from Knorr.
Afterwards I found out that this pump was manufactured by a Mr. Endres. This gentleman has since passed away. I was able to meet him at an exhibition in Friedrichshafen on Lake Constance in 1996. He manufactured these pumps in different sizes.
The two spool valves are controlled either mechanically or by vapour pressure.
The auxiliary spool is mechanically pushed upwards by the piston and held there by steam pressure, and at the end of the downward stroke it is pushed down again by steam pressure. The stroke pusher is reversed by the auxiliary pusher.

After I had cleaned the pump, made a new auxiliary slide valve and replaced defective pipes, the function was restored.
The pipework was made with copper pipe OD 2,0 - 2.5 mm.
Here are some pictures of the pump.