Six Shooter Elbow Engine
- Thread starter Ken I
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Next a presentation base - a local shop that makes solid wood furniture donated this lump of rough hewn oak.
This is what was lurking inside it
And how it got there
A 1:1 stick on print being my marking out method.
Cropping out the cutter radii using a morticing machine chisel.
Test fitting.
Note I have reversed the inlet and exhaust ports - see bronze muffler / exhaust below throttle (not a good idea for steam).
Next tear down the motor to modify / repair / pretty up.
Ken
This is what was lurking inside it
And how it got there
A 1:1 stick on print being my marking out method.
Cropping out the cutter radii using a morticing machine chisel.
Test fitting.
Note I have reversed the inlet and exhaust ports - see bronze muffler / exhaust below throttle (not a good idea for steam).
Next tear down the motor to modify / repair / pretty up.
Ken
Spent the weekend "hacking" away at the upright to pretty it up some.
This is the MT2 stub turned from Aluminium to get it on centre.
Then did a spot of engine polishing.
A 18 diameter wooden dowel with a leather disk glued on it (the dowel on its own didn't work well), Locktite fine grinding paste and WD40 @ 9mm pitching worked from the centreline out.
Also the upright with the linear pitching lined up with the circular pitching.
Damn - the plugged error holes are still visible - so I'm going to make some sort of ornate cover plate to close this over.
The brass inlet port is scewed into the base - piped from there to the inlet inside the base.
Just have to remake the timing bushes - there is too much clearance on the originals leading to a lot of bypass air.
I'm thinking of painting the steel base rings in hammertone black.
Ken
This is the MT2 stub turned from Aluminium to get it on centre.
Then did a spot of engine polishing.
A 18 diameter wooden dowel with a leather disk glued on it (the dowel on its own didn't work well), Locktite fine grinding paste and WD40 @ 9mm pitching worked from the centreline out.
Also the upright with the linear pitching lined up with the circular pitching.
Damn - the plugged error holes are still visible - so I'm going to make some sort of ornate cover plate to close this over.
The brass inlet port is scewed into the base - piped from there to the inlet inside the base.
Just have to remake the timing bushes - there is too much clearance on the originals leading to a lot of bypass air.
I'm thinking of painting the steel base rings in hammertone black.
Ken
Decided to make a cover plate to hide the bolts and access holes.
This pushes in and is held in place by the friction of an "O" ring.
Since I didn't have a piece of stainless large enough I made it by silver soldering a piece of shaft onto a stainless plate.
At this stage it is simply polished - I'm thinking of circular polishing it as well or is that turd polish as Bogs might say.
Comments - leave it polished or go circular polishing ??
Ken
This pushes in and is held in place by the friction of an "O" ring.
Since I didn't have a piece of stainless large enough I made it by silver soldering a piece of shaft onto a stainless plate.
At this stage it is simply polished - I'm thinking of circular polishing it as well or is that turd polish as Bogs might say.
Comments - leave it polished or go circular polishing ??
Ken
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Ken
That cover is a very nice, subtle piece of dressing and the soft edge blends nicely to the rounded frame. This engine has enough visual appeal in the cylinders and flywheel that more might be too much.
One other point about turned faces. They hide fingerprints but if they are scratched, refinishing is all but impossible. If left smooth polished, you can buff it up in a few seconds.
Either way, it is a fine piece of work that will get a lot of attention.
Jerry
That cover is a very nice, subtle piece of dressing and the soft edge blends nicely to the rounded frame. This engine has enough visual appeal in the cylinders and flywheel that more might be too much.
One other point about turned faces. They hide fingerprints but if they are scratched, refinishing is all but impossible. If left smooth polished, you can buff it up in a few seconds.
Either way, it is a fine piece of work that will get a lot of attention.
Jerry
O.K. Polished it is - thanks guys.
I'm busy reassembling the engine and sealing up all the metal to metal joints and gallery plugs none of which have been properly sealed yet.
I discovered one of the thrust bearings to be jammed solid - because of a minor dimensional error - so the one cylinder was rotating without any assistance from this bearing - on the butt end of the seal - I'm surprised it ran as well as it did.
I should finish tonight but I'll give all the sealants 24 hours to cure before applying pressure.
Ken
I'm busy reassembling the engine and sealing up all the metal to metal joints and gallery plugs none of which have been properly sealed yet.
I discovered one of the thrust bearings to be jammed solid - because of a minor dimensional error - so the one cylinder was rotating without any assistance from this bearing - on the butt end of the seal - I'm surprised it ran as well as it did.
I should finish tonight but I'll give all the sealants 24 hours to cure before applying pressure.
Ken
O.K. the motor is all back together (picture to follow) - it ran first time without any problems after reassembly so I'm calling this project finished.
I'm going to run it for about 8 hours to see what happens and will post a video Sunday or Mondayish. (Its now 10:00pm and I don't want to irritate the neighbours with my compressor which is very noisy - so I've stopped for now.)
The motor runs at 300rpm flat out - small pipes etc. - could probably goose it up to 1000 but that's not the point.
At the moment it will run at a slightly hesitant 100rpm because of a slight tight spot which I trust will run itself out. I'm hoping to get down to 30rpm.
With the exhaust connected to a pipe to duct it elsewhere, so I can check (listen / feel) for leaks, the motor simply purrs along like a contented cat.
It does not leak - but that was the entire point of the exercise. I have noticed two of the cylinders leak slightly at the stall / start position but don't appear to leak when running - I did not use a lot of "O" ring interference and obviously the rings are taking a pasting during run-in - so I'll probably treat it to a new set of "O" rings once run in.
Under running conditions, the only place air (and therefore oil) comes out is the exhaust - again that was the design intention.
As I am still applying upper cylinder (externally) lube for running in, it is still throwing a little oil (very little) but once run in that should be a thing of the past - again that was the design intention.
There is still a small bypass leak (from the metal to metal clearances at the throttle and distributor axles) but its small enough and I can live with that - again - it goes out the exhaust - nowhere else.
I will now finish off the drawings and build notes to file under downloads when I will also file it under completed projects.
Give me about a week to get my sh.. together (if you are interested).
Ken
I'm going to run it for about 8 hours to see what happens and will post a video Sunday or Mondayish. (Its now 10:00pm and I don't want to irritate the neighbours with my compressor which is very noisy - so I've stopped for now.)
The motor runs at 300rpm flat out - small pipes etc. - could probably goose it up to 1000 but that's not the point.
At the moment it will run at a slightly hesitant 100rpm because of a slight tight spot which I trust will run itself out. I'm hoping to get down to 30rpm.
With the exhaust connected to a pipe to duct it elsewhere, so I can check (listen / feel) for leaks, the motor simply purrs along like a contented cat.
It does not leak - but that was the entire point of the exercise. I have noticed two of the cylinders leak slightly at the stall / start position but don't appear to leak when running - I did not use a lot of "O" ring interference and obviously the rings are taking a pasting during run-in - so I'll probably treat it to a new set of "O" rings once run in.
Under running conditions, the only place air (and therefore oil) comes out is the exhaust - again that was the design intention.
As I am still applying upper cylinder (externally) lube for running in, it is still throwing a little oil (very little) but once run in that should be a thing of the past - again that was the design intention.
There is still a small bypass leak (from the metal to metal clearances at the throttle and distributor axles) but its small enough and I can live with that - again - it goes out the exhaust - nowhere else.
I will now finish off the drawings and build notes to file under downloads when I will also file it under completed projects.
Give me about a week to get my sh.. together (if you are interested).
Ken
Interested indeed Ken. Can't wait to see the final video of this one running on just a whiff. The embellishments you have done to this engine, not to mention the overall re-design are outstanding. I imagine you are glad to have this one behind you now and can finally relax and begin plotting the next 'ultra'-engine. ;D
BC1
Jim
BC1
Jim
Here's the completed elbow engine.
And a "prequel" video of it running - I piped up the exhaust so you can hear it without the exhaust noise - but the clatter you can hear is rain on my IBR workshop roof.
You can see the slow running hesitancy at the tight spot which I am hoping to run out before posting a vid under finished projects.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0-vCBC0KkU&feature=youtu.be
Ken
And a "prequel" video of it running - I piped up the exhaust so you can hear it without the exhaust noise - but the clatter you can hear is rain on my IBR workshop roof.
You can see the slow running hesitancy at the tight spot which I am hoping to run out before posting a vid under finished projects.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0-vCBC0KkU&feature=youtu.be
Ken
arnoldb said::If it's raining in CT, there's cold weather on the way here to Windhoek... I guess the Winter's arriving...
I used to think it rained a lot in Cape Town, but that was before I moved to Vancouver
Ken, I have just finished reading this thread, what an amazing build, but so intimidating for a beginner.
The motor has about 8 hours run time on it and the tight spot is loosening up, it will now tick over at 50rpm. My target is 30 or less.
Clive, the "Elbow" intimidated me given all that I'd read - but at the end of the day its a collection of parts which individually are not that difficult.
There are a few things that you have to get right and it was a challenge.
But a fun challenge.
Captain Jerry, the oil flinging problem is almost licked - oil still works its way past the piston "O" rings (it ultimately has to or the "O" rings wouldn't be lubricated) but the amount is very limited and tends to accumulate around the mouth of the cylinder bores. If you wipe it away you can get maybe an hours run time without any oil coming off.
Ken
Clive, the "Elbow" intimidated me given all that I'd read - but at the end of the day its a collection of parts which individually are not that difficult.
There are a few things that you have to get right and it was a challenge.
But a fun challenge.
Captain Jerry, the oil flinging problem is almost licked - oil still works its way past the piston "O" rings (it ultimately has to or the "O" rings wouldn't be lubricated) but the amount is very limited and tends to accumulate around the mouth of the cylinder bores. If you wipe it away you can get maybe an hours run time without any oil coming off.
Ken
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Ken I said:
Ken
Licking is one way to solve the problem if you can get past the taste. You might try flavored oils but they tend to be a little sticky.
But I think you have the problem solved. As the engine wears in and smooths out, it will require less oil for lube and sealing and the o-rings will leave less oil on the cylinders. You should be able to get several hours of run without licking.
Looking at this engine, it is easy to forget that your motivation in building it was to solve the many problems of the original design with solid engineering instead of fiddling. Nice going!
For newcomers to this thread. Don't just look at the video and say "wow-elbows, and its shiney!". Go back to page 1 or 2 of this thread and get inside the design modifications. That is where the real beauty is.
Jerry
