Simple horizontal Mill Engine

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This whole conversion topic reminds me of when I was a draughtsman, at the time when England (UK) was "going metric". We quite easily adopted metric dimensions for the most part, using whole-numbers where we could, and decimals where it mattered.

The European standard for pipe-threads was chosen to be British Standard Pipe (BSP) so some silly arses started putting 12.7 BSP on their drawings, where what was required was 1/2 inch BSP.

Sorry, Stew, I didn't mean my "Devil's Advocate" post as a criticism, rather the opposite. I ~like~ your drawings and I ~like~ your simple dimensioning, and I ~like~ its scalability. I know it is designed in mm but I just couldn't resist a dig those whose preferred numbering system is non-metric.

To echo Brian, Nice work stew.

Geoff
 
I've drawn up a simple mill engine that can be made without the use of a mill, I've attached the plans so have fun

Stew

Hi Stew,

Thanks for the drawing. This engine will be on my build list.Prefer to build steam engines as they are very forgiving and easy to build :cool::cool:as compared to IC engines.:wall::wall::wall:
Built the Popcorn engine in 2011. Your engine will be another challenge.:cool::cool:



Gus Teng,

Singapore now hot n humid :fan::fan::fan:

IMG_0440.jpg
 
Sorry, Stew, I didn't mean my "Devil's Advocate" post as a criticism, rather the opposite. I ~like~ your drawings and I ~like~ your simple dimensioning, and I ~like~ its scalability. I know it is designed in mm but I just couldn't resist a dig those whose preferred numbering system is non-metric.

To echo Brian, Nice work stew.

Geoff

Thanks Geoff: no need for an apology it always amuses me when things go off on a tangent, in an interesting debate. *discussion*


I'm planning to draw up a series of simple engines based around common standard parts, I've got a vertical 1/2 drawn, and a grasshopper sketched out, don't know when i'll get them finished it's one of those i pick up when I feal like it.

Hi Gus Like the popcorn engine Thm:

Stew
 
Why can't some people just be grateful for Stews generosity giving us his plan instead of throwing up ridiculous obstacles.
I just want to say thank you Stew for your generous contribution to this great hobby.

Best wishes,Ian (seagar)
 
I don't think that anyone is criticizing the drawing or the design. We are all thankful for folks who are willing to share their design. The discussion is primarily about two different measuring systems, one of which is logical and the other which is stupid but it is the system we in the US are forced to live with. What is amazing is that a change to the metric system was proposed back in the early industrial revolution but was rejected because it was too expensive to change. Soon the US is going to be forced to change.
 
I see no harm done just a little friendly jesting.

I personally prefer imperial measurements. but that's OK . lets not turn this thread into a metric vs imperial debate. that subject has been hashed over many times on this and other forums.
and I did see many thank yous out there including the one I posted.
Tin
 
Stew, nice design & great job on the drawings. Thanks very much for sharing them. I know the time it takes to put a set of drawings like this together & your efforts are very much appreciated.

Units of measure? Doesn't matter. A good machinist/model maker will just take the plans & run with it.

John
 
Just let me say that I am truley grateful for Stews contribution and hard work. It is a lovely little engine and I have downloaded the plans myself. The comments I made were merely my experiences and for disscussion purposes only. i apologize if anything I posted has done anything different.

Thanks a million Stew!!!

Greg
 
Thanks Stewart.
Will make an excellent project.
EJ
 
I've drawn up a simple mill engine that can be made without the use of a mill, I've attached the plans so have fun

Stew

Hi Stew,

The more I view the print,the more I want to build it. Looks like will email my local supplier for cut to size bar stock.

Thanks for the prints. Now in HongKong.

Nice and cooler here but wee bitty rain.:):)

Gus Teng
 
Stewart,

Like the plans for this engine, have printed it out and spent the last hour or so perusing it to fully understand it. Possibly me being dim but just struggling to understand couple of bits on drawing CP1. All the rest looks great and I can follow it without any problem. The front cover Part 3 looks as though Part 5 (Valve stem guide) has the piston rod going through it. The valve chest is shown with Part 6 (Valve rod guide) and this is shown in front view of Cylinder assembly, but cross section shows what looks like Part 7 (Valve guide stuffing box) and part 5 (valve stem guide). Also querying the function of the four M2 threaded holes shown in plan view of Part2 (valve chest) but not shown in the sectional views. The exhause ports also do not appear to be shown in the vertical cross section of the valve chest.

I fully appreciate the time you have spent drawing these places and putting them in public domain. I also have the plans for yourPopcorn engine which I would like to build one day.

Regards,

Colin
 
I see no harm done just a little friendly jesting.

I personally prefer imperial measurements. but that's OK . lets not turn this thread into a metric vs imperial debate. that subject has been hashed over many times on this and other forums.
and I did see many thank yous out there including the one I posted.
Tin

Hi Tin.

Grow up and grow old with Imperial Units. Would love to stay with same.Took me a long time to switch over to "metric" reluctantly.It happened when a set of prints fell into my lap and it was in metric. Did convert all units to inches but gave up when I went shopping locally for reamers and fasteners.Imperial sizes were hard to buy.Most fastener shops had gone metric.As for BSW BSF BA NC NF NS fasteners became fossil. HAlf way into the project,found metric to be a tame animal. When Singapore went metric , it helped for poor guys like Gus to go metric. Now reverting to Imperial would be tough for Gus though I still estimate/visualise in inches/feet/miles/lbs/tons/gallons etc.

Now in Home Machinist Paradise-------HongKong.
Hongkong is paradise shopping for tools. Found shops selling Taiwanese Mini Dividing Heads,UK endmills/reamers etc. The machineshops here believe in paying more for quality stuffs. Chinese drills n end mills are not preferred. Japanese,USA,UK end mills are preferred due to longer service life. Bought some spotting drills.Did see some Chinese brazed carbide cutters.
Trying very hard not to buy everything.

Gus Teng
 
Hi Colin

Thanks for you're interest the drawings have not been tested I'e I've not made the engine yet, so there is a distinc posibility for errors.

To answer you ?

Q1:- The front cover Part 3 looks as though Part 5 (Valve stem guide) has the piston rod going through it.

A1:- Looks like I've labeled part 5 wrong it should be Piston Rod Guide

Q2:- The valve chest is shown with Part 6 (Valve rod guide) and this is shown in front view of Cylinder assembly, but cross section shows what looks like Part 7 (Valve guide stuffing box) and part 5 (valve stem guide).

A2:- There are two parts to the valve rod closure Part 7 that goes into the valve chest you inset the grafite gland packing into this, and Part 6 Valve rod Guide assembles into it compressing the packing to make the seal.

Q3:- Also querying the function of the four M2 threaded holes shown in plan view of Part2 (valve chest) but not shown in the sectional views.

A3:- This is down to my bad design, to be honest I'm unsure on the best way to make the air connection, as drawn I was thinking of just having a plane flange bolted to the chest with the four M2 studs, but I think this may not be the best way, I think it would be better to utilise the four adjasent 2mm holes for the valve chest studs for this purpose.

Q4:- The exhause ports also do not appear to be shown in the vertical cross section of the valve chest.

A4:- The exhaust ports point to the right in the bottom section drawing at 20mm centres, the inlets are at 12mm centres pointing away.

Hope this helps and thanks for asking the ? it realy helps when people give feed back

Hi Gus

I went through the UK change over from imperial to metric including the currency change and to be honest I think the meteric system is far better, but I find I can swap from one to the other with no problem.

As for Hong Cong tooling we visited their a few years ago, and all the guides wanted to show us was jewelry and camera shops, they looked at me as if i was daft when i asked about tooling, and as I was the only tool buff in the party I was just draged along with the rest. But I have found a couple of on line sites based in Hing Cong that supply to the UK good stuff at a real good prices.

Stew
 
Stewart,

Many thanks for clarifying my questions. Makes sense now.

Regards,

Colin
 
I think someone thinks imperial is superior and anything not in mm is inferior; the air must be getting stuffy with the head you know where.
 
Hi Colin

Thanks for you're interest the drawings have not been tested I'e I've not made the engine yet, so there is a distinc posibility for errors.

To answer you ?

Q1:- The front cover Part 3 looks as though Part 5 (Valve stem guide) has the piston rod going through it.

A1:- Looks like I've labeled part 5 wrong it should be Piston Rod Guide

Q2:- The valve chest is shown with Part 6 (Valve rod guide) and this is shown in front view of Cylinder assembly, but cross section shows what looks like Part 7 (Valve guide stuffing box) and part 5 (valve stem guide).

A2:- There are two parts to the valve rod closure Part 7 that goes into the valve chest you inset the grafite gland packing into this, and Part 6 Valve rod Guide assembles into it compressing the packing to make the seal.

Q3:- Also querying the function of the four M2 threaded holes shown in plan view of Part2 (valve chest) but not shown in the sectional views.

A3:- This is down to my bad design, to be honest I'm unsure on the best way to make the air connection, as drawn I was thinking of just having a plane flange bolted to the chest with the four M2 studs, but I think this may not be the best way, I think it would be better to utilise the four adjasent 2mm holes for the valve chest studs for this purpose.

Q4:- The exhause ports also do not appear to be shown in the vertical cross section of the valve chest.

A4:- The exhaust ports point to the right in the bottom section drawing at 20mm centres, the inlets are at 12mm centres pointing away.

Hope this helps and thanks for asking the ? it realy helps when people give feed back

Hi Gus

I went through the UK change over from imperial to metric including the currency change and to be honest I think the meteric system is far better, but I find I can swap from one to the other with no problem.

As for Hong Cong tooling we visited their a few years ago, and all the guides wanted to show us was jewelry and camera shops, they looked at me as if i was daft when i asked about tooling, and as I was the only tool buff in the party I was just draged along with the rest. But I have found a couple of on line sites based in Hing Cong that supply to the UK good stuff at a real good prices.

Stew

Hi Stew,
Did bump into some tourists shopping for tools.Milwauke Power Tools are cheaper here as they have a plant in China.Makita too. Their China Brand Maktec is cheap n good.Bought some Swedish HSS bits and some UK slitting saws.

Heading home now.

Gus Teng.
Please mail me the HK websites to look at.
 
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