RUBY KOUHOUPT MARINE ENGINE

[Don1966]

I had started this engine before I started taking photos and documenting. I have attached the photo of the parts that were already made and will start for there to the final assembly. The cylinder is made from bronze, the shaft and throw lobs were made from tool steel, steam chest is brass, piston and steam chest linkage stainless and the frame and steam chest all brass.

Squaring off the pillar block bearings

I will start by setting up the steam chest into the lathe and align it with the laser to the center punch mark and Boring and reaming.

Now I set it up in the mill and mill the steam passage.

Milling complete

Will thats all for today

Don

 

[steamer]

That's beautiful Don! Nice Job!

Dave

 

[Herbiev]

Looking great Don. Im looking forward to following this build of a really nice engine

 

[rhitee93]

I'll enjoy seeing you finish this one Don. It is on my to do list.

 

[Don1966]

Thanks guys for you interest. I will continue to post as I make progress, work is slow right now. Being summer it does not hurt my feelings any. I plan on making this a motor generator setup. I will be building a lamp post with an LED lamp for demo. All will be mounted into a Doll Case when complete. This is why I went with all brass and bronze. Below is the PM Research Dynamo I will be using.

Don

 

[Don1966]

Well started off making the eccentrics and the eccentric straps. I used 5/8" cold rold steel for the eccentric. First off was to cut off a piece of stock big enough to make two. Then to the mill to drill the shaft passage in the eccentric. I set it up in the mill vise and used my coaxal indicator to center the mill. Then move to desired measurement and drilled through. Next was to move to the lathe and chuck it into the four jaw chuck. One thing I did wrong on the start was to cut the groves in the eccentric first in the three jaw chuck and then chuck it in the Four Jaw chuck to cut the offset, big mistake I cut the eccentric to size and then chucked it. The photo below is what happen to it.

Now to the new setup and doing it proper. First I center the shaft passage with the coaxal indicator and cut the offset then set up to cut the groove and then use the cutoff tool to remove it from the parent stock.

Drilled and Ream

cutting the offset

The eccentrics complete

I started the eccentric strap with a piece of 932 bronze stock chucked in the three jaw chuck in the lathe cut and bored it to size.

That is all I got done today.

Don

 

[Don1966]

I had some time in the shop today and managed to get some work done. I started off by completing the Eccentric straps. The Flywheel was next in line and was cut from a 1 1/2" 360 brass round stock. I started cutting the resection and hub side and then drilled and reamed to 1/4". Then I rechuck to the oposite side to cut about a .125" resection on that side. After I had completed the turning process, I decided to add a little more to the flywhee. So I installed my rotary table and using an endmill cut eight holes around the inside perimeter of the hub.

The completed eccentrics and eccentric straps.

The Flywheel is beginning to take shape

Reaming the 1/4" shaft hole.

The completed flywheel and I decided to add some holes around the inside perimeter.

Using the rotary table to drill the holes

The completed flywheel finally and I believe I like that better

I will continue this on a new post.

Don

 

[rhitee93]

It's looking good Don. I like the flywheel.

 

[ozzie46]

Looking great Don.

I'm here till the end.

Ron

 

[Don1966]

Next I decided to drill the holes to install the cylinder top and bottom covers. I installed my vise and mounted the cylinder block on the mill. using my edge finder located the top and left corner and using my DRO to drill and taps the holes.

The bottom cylinder cover.

I also completed the steam chest and covers in the same setup.
So having more time to kill today i decided to start the crankshaft. I had been dreading to silver braze. Fear comes over me every time I think of it. I have silver braze before when I wound motors years ago but that was copper wire. So here is my take of brazing. I set it up in a small vise I had and made a piece of 3/16" brass shim and clamped the crank webs to keep them at the proper distance. I like to soak it good with flux.

Well the first crank web and really is not to bad jst trying to get my confidence up for the next one.

OK first step I have to square this thing off. So I set the first square point.

Next the second square point and i had to flip the vise over to its side for this one.

I decided to use my jewelers saw to cut the crank web openings.

Ok that ws not too bad and the crank is complete.

Well thats about all for today and I will try tomorrow to have more.
Ok I had a photo of it partial assemblied and I decided to post it.

Don

 

[steamer]

A karma from me for the use of the jewelers saw! A very underated tool that can be very handy!
Looking good Don!
Dave

 

[Don1966]

Dave thanks for the karma and your comments.

Brian and Ron thanks for the interest in my project.

BTW I sandwiched paper in between the bearing and installed and squared them to the bedplate. I started out by setting up the bedplate and bearings on to my angle plate and DTI them in the vertical side. After securing the bedplate to the mill I used my edge finder to located the top left corner and dialed to center point on the first bearing. I center drill the top bearing but do not have a center drill long enough to center the next bearing in line. So I used a half size drill to drill all bearings and finish with the last under size drill bit. I then reamed with an under size reamer and finished with the final size reamer.

Making the first pass through all bearings

Reaming the bearings to final size.

I then install the crankshaft and connecting rods and install it on the lathe to break it all in.

While I had the engine on the lathe running on low speed I started to mill the slide valve body the photo is only the start of the process I got carry away and forgot to take more. I just line it up to cut the slit down the middle of the valve body.

Next I started the steam inlet manifold by milling the flanges out.

Using the slitting saw to cut the flange to size.

Here I am bending the Manifold tubing with my micromark bender. I first fill the tubing with glass beads to pervent it from crushing the tubing. ???

Setting the manifold up for silver brazing. Oh!! a lot of flux. Thm:

Not to bad for a beginner. ;D

And the manifold all cleaned up. As I was cleaning the manifold up, I decided to polish it. Well that was almost a big mistake. Thinking I had it in my hand securely and buffing away it went flying and I held my breathe :wall:. I was lucky today is all I can say.

 

[Rayanth]

I've never soldered anything in my life, it always amazes me when i see the photos like your last two - something so ugly can become so pretty and nearly flawless...

keep up the good work, watching every step!

- Ryan

 

[steamer]

As I am sure Don will agree...no real magic there Ryan.
Just patience, and hard work and some good planning.

Nicely done Don!

Dave

 

[bearcar1]

I appreciate the ovoid shape you put on the mounting flanges Don, nice going Thm:

BC1
Jim

 

[Don1966]

Jim, Ryan and Dave thanks for you comments and interest I really appericate you guys watching.

BTW
Well I had another day of playing and today I decided to give the engine a pair of shoes. Ruby design this engine with just to bedplate but it just don't look right so here we go. I started out with milling some stock to 3/4" x 1/4"diameter.

I then wanted some mounting bolt holes and mill some opening about .125" deep by 3/4" wide to match the bedplate.

Just having the opening in the sole plate was not quiet good enough so I mounted my Sine vise on the mill and using my angle cube set it up for 15 degrees.

Here I am milling the angle.

after fitting the shoes to the engine here is how it looks. The engine is not complete as you see it I still have a few thing left to do to it. I am waiting for some 2/56 taps to come in. I managed to break three of them on this engine. One I dropped and it broke when it fell and the other two while tapping. No I don't have any excuse why just get too careless thats all.

tomorrow is another day so I will try to have more progress.

Don

 

[Don1966]

Today I started out to make a lamp pole. The photos below show the progression of the built. I started with a piece of 1.5" 360 round brass to make the base assembly with. In the turning process I had some pratice at graving. I had done some graving before, but needed more practice. I also had to make a bending fixture to bend the tubing with. After I had brazed and clean up the lamp pole I set everything up on the MFB which came with the Doll case to get an idea of how everything will look.
First process making the base unit.

http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/gg629/don1966/MARINE%
20ENGINE/NO61.jpg
Some graving with the end of a file.

Tapping the completed base unit

I then started the pole shaft by tapping the treads to screw to the base unit and center drilling.

The pole column is starting to take shape.

Almost complete

Made the jig to bend the lamp pole head, first I filled the tubing with glass beads then bend to shape without crushing it.

Starting the lamp cone.

More graving practice to cut the funnel opening.

Setting up for silver brazing.

The pole complete

The setup with engine, Dynamo and lamp pole.

I am still waiting on taps to complete the engine but I will continue to mount everything to the platform. I will post as I progress.
One thing I want to ask everyone is, what color to paint the Dynamo so it will match everything. Are do I just leave it as is.
Don

 

[ozzie46]

Don, Thats very nice work. That lamp pole is fantastic.

As far as what to paint the dynamo, myself, I would leave it as it is.

What ever you decide to do I'm sure it fit the theme.

Ron

 

[steamer]

Oh I like that Don! I like brass!!!!

Dave

 

[idahoan]

Wow the light pole is a work of art!

The engine is pretty darn nice also.
Thanks for sharing your build with us.

Dave