Rivergypsy Builds Rupnow Engine

[Rivergypsy]

Ok, here goes :hDe:

Well the base is done now - cnc'd from 6082 ally, and then the back wiped off on a manual Bridgeport. Nice to see the first part in the 'flesh' - it should come out at a nice size.

The first side plate is on the cnc as we speak, so hopefully more pics tomorrow

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Ok, here goes :hDe:

Well the base is done now - cnc'd from 6082 ally, and then the back wiped off on a manual Bridgeport. Nice to see the first part in the 'flesh' - it should come out at a nice size.

The first side plate is on the cnc as we speak, so hopefully more pics tomorrow

looking by the date did you build this 12 years agoRof}Rof}.
I should be posting pics soon too, the head, base are done working on the side
:fan:

 

[Rivergypsy]

Lmfao - did I mention that I am a mind reader

One of these days I'll set the camera date!

Looking forward to seeing your work, Luc!

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Hooray for River Gypsy!!! I am busting my buns designing "Paying Stuff" for a customer, but I seen this and had to cheer you on.---Brian

 

[Brian Rupnow]

RiverGypsy---I am rushing ahead machining things to keep ahead of everyone, so that if there are any errors I can warn folks to beware of them. Everything seems to be going okay so far---I am in the final stages of finishing the crankshaft.----Brian

 

[Path]

Rivergyspy:

Nice CNC work ... what machine are you using?
Any photos on your CNC setup for the base plate and or the sides?


Will be posting on my progress later today or tomorrow.


Pat H.

 

[Rivergypsy]

Hi Brian,

As soon as I've got my camera with me I'll post some more pics, but the side plates and cylinder head are all done now bar the side holes - looking good though

Pat - I'm glad you like the cnc work It's a Bridgeport Interact - nothing fancy or fast, but I do like them. I've not got pics of the setup, but here's a pic of the first op in GibbsCAM to give an idea. All I did was get a billet in the vice, profile the parts and drill / cbore them, and then flip them over and wipe the back off.

 

[kvom]

I was wondering if Brian could produce DXF files for parts like these. Would make CNC setup less work.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Yes, I can produce dxf files, and many cnc shops can work directly from my solid models.---Brian

 

[Rivergypsy]

Yes, I do here, Brian - just a straight drag and drop into the CAM software. I do try and do some manual programming too though, just to stop the grey matter siezing up completely...

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Any more pictures?----Or progress?

 

[Rivergypsy]

Hi Brian,

Sorry for making you wait; it's been a bit of a madhouse here, what with keeping the entablature engine moving (the flywheel is at last roughing on the mill ) and getting ready for last Sundays raft race. We won for the second year running though, so all good!

Here's where I'm at so far - the side plates and head are now up to their second op, and looking good. I hope to get these back into a mill towards the end of this week, all things permitting...

Cheers
Dave

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Absolutely beautiful!!! Your machined finish looks so much better than mine!!! Looking very, very good, and I am so glad you have joined in this build.---Brian

 

[Rivergypsy]

Lol, glad you like it, Brian! I'm just trying to juggle projects, so apologies if it goes in fits and starts...

 

[Path]

That is nice work .. beautiful finish. :bow:

How do you plan on getting the two bearings on center line since you can't stack the two sides together?

Thanks,

Pat H.

 

[Rivergypsy]

Thanks, Path


Probably to drop them into the cnc when the bearing caps are on, and profile the housings using the base and front of each plate as a datum. At least, that's the plan...

 

[Path]

Yes, thought the same thing except I'm not sure that hole size would be the correct diameter. Print call for .906" dia the bearing is .9062" so the cnc would have to be right on. Using the manual method with a boring bar I could size the hole using a bearing as a gauge. Probably will experiment a bit to find out how accurate I can make the hole.

Looking forward to seeing your results.


Pat H.

 

[canadianhorsepower]

Yes, thought the same thing except I'm not sure that hole size would be the correct diameter. Print call for .906" dia the bearing is .9062" so the cnc would have to be right on. Using the manual method with a boring bar I could size the hole using a bearing as a gauge. Probably will experiment a bit to find out how accurate I can make the hole.

Looking forward to seeing your results.


Pat H.

Both of my plate are bolted together. and I'm using an adjustable reamer to
fine tune everything.

PATH, are you building one also?

 

[Path]

Luc,

I can see bolting the sides together to get the clearance hole (.766), but that hole size is not critical. Maybe your not using the bearing stop, just machining the bearing hole only while they are bolted together ... that probably works.

Yep ... will be as soon as I get over this cold. I now have had 3 colds in 2 months. Each time I thought I was over it and would start doing small things to get back in shape then bang another one starts, don't know where they are coming from. Sure knocks me out. Saw doc this AM, got some meds we'll see if that kicks it.

However, so far I taken Brian's PDFs and model them in SW then for some will get the g-code. Hope to be making chips and posting results soon .

Been watching 4 different posts so far, maybe I'll be number 5.

Later,

Pat H.

 

[Brian Rupnow]

Guys--My thoughts on the bearing bore were as follows.--Sometimes when I build engines, no matter how much care is taken with the bearing bores (when using bushings) the engine will be in a severe "bind" when everything is assembled, and the only way to correct that is to loosen off the bearing caps and "run the engine in" using an outside power source, until the softer bearing material conforms to the shape of the crankshaft. As the running in becomes easier, the bearing caps are tightened more and more until the caps are tight and the engine runs freely. I knew I wouldn't be able to take that approach with ball bearings. I decided to make the bore "size on size" and see what would happen. As it turns out, at least on my engine, there is no bind, so nothing farther is needed. My back up plan was this. If I had encountered any kind of bad "binding" I would have opened the bores another .010 or .015" and coated the bores with an epoxy resin, then bolted things down tight. The extra clearance would have let the bearings settle in in a non binding position, and the epoxy resin would have set up and formed a permanent "seat" to hold the bearings in the correct position.---Brian