tel
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 8, 2008
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OK - by popular demand ....
For some reason I'm never completely comfortable doing slide valves. Dunno why, perhaps it harks back to the days when I had to do 'em on a vertical slide in the lathe, because they are easy enough to do.
First, a look at the valve in question - my dimensions vary slightly from what is shown
The usual starting point is getting a piece of material, in this case a bit of 1/2" square brass, bung it in the vise and square one end.
With the end squared, the piece is already indicated for us - just raise the tool, crank along length + end mill diameter( in this case 1/2" + 3/8") and plough a groove thru the stock - this defines the length
Then I switched to a 3mm slot drill, and took the groove somewhat deeper. Now we have to indicate the end again, with the head of the RF30 set low enough for end mill cutting, it is a bit of a fiddle to fit in the wiggler, so back to basics - the good ol' moistened Tally Ho
For some reason I'm never completely comfortable doing slide valves. Dunno why, perhaps it harks back to the days when I had to do 'em on a vertical slide in the lathe, because they are easy enough to do.
First, a look at the valve in question - my dimensions vary slightly from what is shown
The usual starting point is getting a piece of material, in this case a bit of 1/2" square brass, bung it in the vise and square one end.
With the end squared, the piece is already indicated for us - just raise the tool, crank along length + end mill diameter( in this case 1/2" + 3/8") and plough a groove thru the stock - this defines the length
Then I switched to a 3mm slot drill, and took the groove somewhat deeper. Now we have to indicate the end again, with the head of the RF30 set low enough for end mill cutting, it is a bit of a fiddle to fit in the wiggler, so back to basics - the good ol' moistened Tally Ho