Question about lathe

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Hobgobbln

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I just picked up a G4000 lathe. I have never run one before. Is there supposed to be a scale or dial so you know where you are with the carriage (I think thats what its called, moves left to right)? The compound and cross slide have dials on the back of the hand wheels. Am I missing a part? It is a used machine so I am just curious if I am missing something.

I wish I had gotten a lathe first. The mill is a chore but I am having a ball with the lathe. Figures, after I got the mill I noticed lots of people saying to start on a lathe. Now I know why.

Griz

 
Most of these lathes have a scale on the large handwheel that moves the carrage. Having said that they are large divisions and I would not use them of anything that matters. A carrage stop would be worth making if you need to do repetative cuts with teh carrage.

Jason
 
Hi Griz,
I have a G4000 lathe too. No, this lathe does not have an indicator built into it to measure distance moved along the lathe bed axis. But you can make a simple one by clamping a dial indicator onto a magnetic base and setting it against the apron casting. Just be sure that the dial indicator is square to the casting to eliminate what's called cosine error.

Cheers,
Phil
 
Plus you can pick up a set of micrometer setting rods to extend the range very accurately past the 1"-2" travel a normal D.I. will do. Before DROs were invented this is how really accurate jig boring/grinding was done.

Pete

 
Depending on the size parts you're making, you may find that turning the compound rest 90 degrees to the cross feed is useful. Just be sure it's exactly 90 or you'll be cutting tapers. A couple of test cuts will tell you how accurate the hash marks are. I use my old Southbend set up like this almost all the time. Lock the cross feed down and use the compound for your longitudinal motion. Be sure to keep track of the backlash in the lead screw when you do this or you can get into trouble. Use the cross feed screw for radial dimensions and the compound for axial. Works for me.
 
Ed- Thanks for the tip. Didn't think of that.

Pete- Do the rods actually increase the range? If I add a 2" rod to my 2" indicator do I get 4" of travel or still 2" of travel just 2" farther away?
 
Hobgobbln,
I've got a picture around here somewhere of a Jig boring machine that shows the use of these rods, But there's also a thread over on the HSM forum describeing the use of these rods, It should be on one of the first 3 pages under general. If it were me, I'd build a proper D.I. mount for your lathe, (There's lot's of designs here) Build a small hanger with a V groove or bore slightly less than half a hole into it, Bolt this to the D.I. mount with the idea that the measureing rods C/L needs to line up with the C/L of the dial indicator. Build another small hanger and bolt that to the lathes apron. As long as the rods are held both vertical and horizontal true at each end you measurements will be as good as the accuracy of your D.I. and measureing rods. You can even copy your micrometer setting rods useing say 3/8ths drill rod and save the micrometer setting rods for what they were designed for, That way you won't lose their accuracy due to use.

To use them, Let's say for example you want to machine a reduced diameter on a shaft and up to a shoulder that is 3.375" long, To make this post shorter, We'll assume the work is sticking out from the chuck 3.5" and has been faced and center drilled, Supported with a center, and your faceing and turning tool is still in the exact same position it was when you faced off the work. Slide your D.I. and mount towards the headstock and leave it loose enough that it can be moved back and forth by hand, Drop your 3" rod into the hangers so their supported at each end and the D.I. hand is just starting to move, Lock the D.I. mount to the lathe bed, Zero the D.I. Remove the measureing rod. Machine the O.D. of your material by moveing the carrige to the left, The dial indicator tip will contact the inside of the rod hanger on the apron, When the D.I. has travelled .375 past zero, Your at your exact diamension. For this post we'll also assume there is no + - tolerances in either the D.I. or the measureing rods. This takes far longer to read than it does to set the lathe up and use the equipment.

One more tip that you may not know, Lets say after you've faced off your part and you change to a different turning tool and you want to know your starting position at the face of the material. Buy some Zig-Zag cigarette rolling papers, The ones you want come in the light blue package. These are almost exactly .001 thick. With the lathe off, Put the end of one of the cigarette papers on the face of the work and down past the materials C/L, Useing the aprons longitudinal feed move the tool tip till it almost touches the work face, Advance the tool tip while slowly moveing the cigarette paper up and down with your fingers, As soon as the paper snags between the work and the tool tip stop. Your now zeroed to your part face. There's nothing in this whole post that was invented by myself, I've read it all elsewhere, But I hope this helps you out.

Pete
 
I found the HSM thread, As of this morning it's on page two in General, First posted by Gary Gill, Thread title, Before DRO, How was it done. If my poor attempts at "puter" operation were better I'd be able to put a direct link here.

Pete
 
Vernon,
LOL,Right on, You are a true computer expert in my books, Thank you.

Pete
 
Griz:
a couple of other ways to get numbers on the z axix aka longitudinal feed.
1) add a digital readout aka DRO
2) the way i learned was to lay out the cuts on the part usual with a jenny caliper aka hermaphrodite caliper. cut close to the lint take a measurement stet your tool to the shoulder set up a micrometer stop then back of the desired cut depth.
if you have not already done so download a copy of Army TCTO 9-524 and read the late section.
Tin
 
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