Question about chuck/arbor in tailstock

[CraigLD]

I recently got a drill chuck and arbor to use in my tailstock, but have a question about using it. (I warn you that being a newbie, I would have a lot of dump questions). If I have cranked the quill all the way out, the arbor fits tightly in. However if I start to retract the quill, I reach a spot where the end of the arbor hits the end of the threaded rod inside the tailstock. Is that normal, or do I have a wrong arbor? It is a standard MT2. Or more lightly, am I just doing something wrong?

Thanks in advance for guidance,

Craig

 

[chucketn]

Craig, I assume you have a 7x lathe, as no other type of lathe has this problem that I know of. If so, a normal MT2 taper is too long for the Tailstock. You can purchase a drill chuck from Harbor Freight and other sources with a shortened MT2, or you can cut off a bit of the one you have. I have posted a picture showing a shortened arbor on a live center and a MT2 taper drill bit with a standard taper.

 

[CraigLD]

Thanks for your response. So I take it that cutting an inch or so off the end won't cause any problem?

Thanks again

 

[chucketn]

Thanks for your response. So I take it that cutting an inch or so off the end won't cause any problem?

Thanks again

I would extend the tailstock barrel, insert the problem taper until it seats properly. Then mark the taper where it emerges from the tailstock barrel. Eject again and measure 2 1/8" from first mark, toward tail end of taper of course, and make another mark. Then cut it off at this 2nd mark. This will leave the taper short enough to retract the tailstock barrel to the o mark on the scale. A turn and a half more should eject the taper. These instructions are for a 7x type lathe. Other lathes may need more or less removed.

 

[chucketn]

If you, by mistake, cut it too short, you can always drill and tap the cut off end for a SHCS and adjust the screw to where the taper ejects as you want.

 

[ShopShoe]

CraigLD,

I don't know where in the world you are, but if cutting a taper short is is not something you want to do, Little Machine Shop sells MT short taper chuck arbors. Go to LittleMachineShop.com and search for "short morse taper."

One of the first things I did when I got my 7x mini lathe was to order a higher-quality tailstock chuck and a I got a short taper from LMS.

--ShopShoe

 

[bobden72]

Craig, I would think twice about shortening the taper as you will lose rigidity. I found this out the hard on my milling machine the hard way. My super 7 ejects from the tailstock, how far back dose yours eject. it.

 

[werowance]

my Bolton tools at750 lathe/mill combo (same thing as a smith just different color) does this same thing. but that's also how I get mt3 out as there is really no where to use a drift on my tail stock. I only loose about a half inch if travel. I just remember that I started out at 1/2 inch and go from there for depth.

 

[Cogsy]

The 7X series of lathes do not use the tang on the taper. If you slice the tang off it should work fine and it should still eject.

 

[CraigLD]

I used a cutoff wheel in my dremel to cut off the end of the taper. so far everything looks OK, but will known for sure when I first try to use it.

Thanks to everyone for their help and comments.

Craig

 

[goldstar31]

For the cost of replacing the arbor, why bother cutting off the tang?

Eventually, sooner I hope than later, you will need( or want to have) a large number of centres. Again, ONE drill chuck is hardly sufficient. I have numerous drawers full- and most to do various sizes and operations. Conceivably, you will get a mill-' and probably need a tanged arbour.

My opinions but I gave gathered all sorts and sizes of taper shanks from O Morse for watchmaking lates to quite whoppers.