After the holidays and when the house went quiet again, I decided it was time to finally replace the motor in my lathe. Replacing it required a couple afternoons that included hashing-up some fixtures to help me maneuver the old motor out and shoehorn the new one into place. The close-fitting enclosure around this lathe helps to keep the shop floor clean, but it really sucks when maintenance or modifications are required on the machine. Most of this is my own doing, though, since the location I chose for it in my shop made the enclosure unremovable.
Even though I was assured the replacement motor would be the same physical size as the original, it isn't. The new motor protrudes outside the rear envelope of the enclosure by a quarter inch or so. This required a large hole to be cut in the rear of the enclosure and a cover plate to hide the 'bump'. The motor is also about an inch longer than the original, and so I had to modify the fresh air intake that I recently plumbed inside the enclosure for the motor's cooling fan. After working through a few errors in the updated wiring diagram supplied with the motor, I finally had the lathe running.
The new motor has a few new 'features' that took some getting used to. Most obvious is that its integral VFD and controller remain active for some 30 seconds after its power is removed. If the Mach session is terminated before the energy storage devices inside the VFD have time to discharge, the motor will briefly spin up in some random direction before discharging them. Also, if the lathe is used in its manual mode, almost the same amount of time is required for the motor's internal controller to boot up before the motor can be run. This had me running around in circles the first few times I tried to test the new installation.
I disassembled the original motor hoping to find something simple that I could repair. The integral VFD in this motor is an assembly of four complex circuit boards that fit together in Chinese puzzle box fashion inside a cast aluminum finned enclosure. This enclosure is normally hidden by the cooling fan shroud. There is also a large internal potted inductor assembly as well as a shaft encoder, and so this VFD is not a typical sensor-less type. One of the boards contains four 350uF 400V capacitors sitting on the dc bus. The shrink-wrapped tops of three of them appear to be bubbled which isn't a good sign. The power connector to the motor windings was badly overheated (melted), and indicates the motor has drawn some excessive currents. A temperature-related insulation failure would fit the symptoms I've been seeing, but the failed/failing caps could be also be involved. The issue with replacing them, though, is that they are soldered to one side of the same circuit board that contains all the heat-sinked semiconductors on its opposite side. It seems that a heat conductive epoxy was used to permanently attach them to the interior surface of the finned enclosure, and so this board may not have been designed to be repairable. This is disappointing since aluminum electrolytics are known ticking time bombs in any product especially when they're inside a close-fitting enclosure with heated stagnant air. In frustration I boxed up all the pieces for another day.
Getting back to the Merlin, I thought I had completed all the machining on the crankcase so I could logically start on the liners. However, I had forgotten about the tapped mounting holes on the rear of the crankcase used to attach the wheel case. Five of these 20 holes were drilled earlier using coordinates from the wheel case drawing in order to attach a temporary rear fixture for line-boring the crankcase. It's critical that the centerlines of the crankcase and the wheel case are identical, but only a few of the wheel case holes are accessible for match-drilling to the crankcase. So, I decided to drill the crankcase and wheel case holes in two separate operations using the coordinates provided on the wheel case drawing. I had also planned to add a couple dowel pins for good measure, but I couldn't find suitable locations for them. Instead, I reamed the wheel case holes for close (.002") screw clearances and hoped their sheer numbers would be sufficient to register the two assemblies.
I stripped down the crankcase (again) and indicated it along all three axes on the mill in order to verify the coordinates of the previously drilled holes and to drill and tap the remaining holes. I also scraped away some more investment that I found hiding in some of the corners of the casting.
Before drilling the holes in the wheel case I first had to do some foundational machining on the casting. The wheel case is an overwhelming casting that will eventually require a lot of precise machining since it supports a number of geared take-off shafts and countershafts in addition to the supercharger. The gear spacings associated with some of these shafts will not adjustable, and so there will be some non-forgiving machining ahead.
The first step was to face the front mounting flange to the crankcase. This had to be done iteratively and in small steps with the rear flange to which the supercharger will mount. My particular casting turned out to be significantly warped, and Ihad a lot of difficulty distributing the casting errors between the front and rear flanges so circumferential variations in their thicknesses were not so obvious. The notes warned that this casting might be problematic but cannot be straightened due to its complex shape. The mounting flange for the timing chain cover was then faced just enough to get it flat. This surface defines the horizontal axis of the wheel case and was used as one of the references for the mounting hole coordinate system.
The coordinates are referred to the center-line of the crankcase which, in turn, must correspond to the centerline of the supercharger. Therefore the wheel case was moved to the lathe where its crankcase-side flange was mounted to a faceplate. After compromise-centering the casting, the mounting flanges for the supercharger and its bearing plate as well as the opening for the crankshaft on the front flange were all concentrically bored. These operations established the finished centerline of the wheel case.
A confusing note in the documentation also called out the machining of a concentric recess on the front flange of the wheel case for use as a register to the crankcase. I did this without understanding why since the rear of my crankcase is flat, and there is nothing for this recess to register. This note may have pertained to an earlier casting version, or it may make more sense later when I better understand some of the remaining operations on the wheel case.
After spotting, drilling, and reaming the wheel case holes I turned a snug-fitting crankshaft plug to locate the wheel case to the crankcase. All 20 screws freely went in as hoped and were snugged down. I then removed the plug and after loosening each screw one full turn I could measure only a few tenths movement of the wheel case with respect to the crankcase. This gave me some confidence in the alignment of the two sections even though I don't like leaving such things up to screws. Four additional holes were transfer-drilled between the wheel case and the oil pan. Finally, with the crankcase/wheel case assembly sitting flat on the mill table, the timing chain cover flange was indicated. It turned out to be horizontal as expected but was also serendipitously at its finished height above the crankshaft centerline. - Terry